Ball joint question

I'm removing the lower control arms tomorrow night.

My ball joints appear to be pressed into the lower control arms and the tops is persumably secured into the "cup" with a nut and then the cup bolted to the bottom of the strut.

At least that's how it looks.

How is the ball joint "secured" into the control arm ? Is it just pressed in or is there some kind of retainer clip securing it in place.

When I figure out what the ball joint is... if I have a choice between "sealed" or with a grease nipple, what's the recommended route ?

When I'm reassembling the nuts and bolts, should I be doing so to certain torque settings, using locktite, or ?

Morton- Looks like those are pressed in. Don't know if that's good or bad. Also looks like they have a zerk fitting or grease nipple ( are you looking at porn as well tonight?) as you call it. The strut/knuckle looks kind of the early 911 stuff from that picture; and thats too bad.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

I tore the front end apart on Friday night, and had them (ball joints) pressed out on Saturday. Then and only then did the fun really begin, in trying to match them.

After 1 front end shop, 2 parts stores, 2 dealerships, and then... finally I found a decent guy at a parts store (Wakefield Sperling), who didn't mind taking the time to help source it. After an exhaustive search, we found one "possible"... Not Saab, Not Mitsubishi, but Hyundai, Plymouth, old Dodge... but they didn't have stock. Appearantly a low volume item "C" as opposed to "A", or "B" (Moog code)

Once I had the parts number of the possible ball joint... I found them at a different parts store. Had the pressed in, re-assembled the front end. Decided it was time to replace the 1974 stock tach, did the brakeline (armoured with fuel hose).

In the process... learned a shit load !

I went to the Subaru dealership (they do the parts for Mitsubishi), and the parts guy... "I don't mind helping you to chase down the ball joint, just give me the year, model, and VIN from the car the ball jouint was supplied from"... And he was serious !

A good leason here was to just tear it apart, and deal with it...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2006 11:27AM by Morten.

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> A good leason here was to just tear it apart, and
> deal with it...

>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Feb 12, 2006 by
> Morten.

People have been telling you that EXACT FUCKING THING for ages MONTHS.

That has been the major problem Morten, your FIRST resort is to ask people to solve your problems; they tell you EXACTLY what you must do, then you don't.

You really should pay a lot of attention and do EXASCTLY what yopu are told.
It IS easier that way.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

"You really should pay a lot of attention and do EXASCTLY what yopu are told."

I've been a slow learner, but a lot of that was from intimidation of working on the car. The past is the past though !

I was driving the car today, going out to practice on gravel.

When 15 miles away from Vancouver, I started losing power, like a mis-fire, the oil pressure was very eratic, the motor stalled, then I pulled over, shut it down.

Called a tow truck and had the car towed home.

What's my next step John ?

Pull the valve cover ?

Morten Wrote:
>
> I've been a slow learner, but a lot of that was
> from intimidation of working on the car. The past
> is the past though !

FUD factor. Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt. Everything has it, and getting over the FUD factor is a part of the "staring at the problem, smoking a ciggie and having a drink" phase.

> I was driving the car today, going out to practice
> on gravel.
>
> When 15 miles away from Vancouver, I started
> losing power, like a mis-fire, the oil pressure
> was very eratic, the motor stalled, then I pulled
> over, shut it down.

Well did you check to see if it has actual oil left in the engine?

Anything came unplugged underhood?

Electric oil pressure gauge or mechanical? Electric gauges are near worthless in accuracy in part because they depend on the state of the battery and alternator... but electric gauges going fooey can be an indicator of a charging problem, which plays hell with all other systems.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

The FUD factor... Very true !

Yes, I checked the oil and it was above the minimum level on the dip stick. Doesn't appear that anything came loose (no more oil on engine than usual), the water temp. didn't go above 180.

The guages I'm not sure about.

My primary oil pressure guage is an Autometer sport comp. The car also has a big red light on the console for the oil pressure, that it had when I bought it. JVL will know if the sending units are mechanical or electrical.

What would my next step be to do ?

You said you started losing power first........... start with the first....

Does it turn over? Run? Does it idle well? What's the idle oil pressure?

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www.rallyrace.net

I'll start a new thread with a motor topic.