Fly-Half Roderick Thomas Mega Moderator Location: Houston, Texas Join Date: 02/02/2014 Age: Settling Down Posts: 42 Rally Car: I have one now |
|
Kyle Kyle Heacock Senior Moderator Location: Portland, OR Join Date: 03/04/2013 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: 81 volvo 242 |
That is a nice looking flywheel, it would look very nice behind my engine. What kind of pressure plate is it? And what do you recommend for a clutch disc?
I pulled the LT1 out of the car today, as well as the crossmember. I need to modify 2 of the mounting holes in the new crossmember I got so it will bolt up, then I can fit in the volvo block and ford T5. I hope to have the motor in position and at least have the mounts planned out by the end of the weekend. Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2014 08:18PM by Kyle. |
tdrrally edward mucklow Super Moderator Location: charleston,wv Join Date: 05/31/2011 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 763 Rally Car: ford mustang LX 5.0, 1973 VW Beetle |
|
heymagic Banned Professional Moderator Location: La la land Join Date: 01/25/2006 Age: Fossilized Posts: 3,740 Rally Car: Not a Volvo |
|
Kyle Kyle Heacock Senior Moderator Location: Portland, OR Join Date: 03/04/2013 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: 81 volvo 242 |
It is an FIA fuel cell and the filler is encased in metal, so it is legal.
I currently have the LT1 for sale. I put it up for $300, since it doesn't have a wiring harness, there are a few melted plastic bits (ps reservoir and dipstick handle) so I'm guessing the motor came out of a burned car, and I have no idea what shape it's in internally. I don't really know the market for these engines, I may be asking too much. A bit of progress today; I got the new crossmember modified and fitted into the car and got a block/transmission sitting in there. Going to use the same transmission mount that Pat is using in his volvo, I just need to add 2 weld nuts to the framerails. The 240 rubber engine mounts (I'm actually using stiffer poly versions) bolt to the rx7 crossmember and line up perfectly, so I just need to go measure the side-to-side angle and tilt angle on a stock 240 so I can build the rest of the mounts correctly. Here are some pics of the old crossmember, and how I modified the new one to bolt up. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2014 08:30PM by Kyle. |
Kyle Kyle Heacock Senior Moderator Location: Portland, OR Join Date: 03/04/2013 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: 81 volvo 242 |
Motor mounts are almost done, just need to reinforce them a bit. I think I'm going to add a plate between the side plates, and maybe a small brace on the backside of the block-side mounting plate. I've figured out how I'm going to add the additional transmission mounting holes to the body, I'll get that finished up tomorrow.
the engine bay now looks huge with the 4-banger back in it. |
Kyle Kyle Heacock Senior Moderator Location: Portland, OR Join Date: 03/04/2013 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: 81 volvo 242 |
I finished up the transmission mounting points, so now the drive train is in place. Once I got it in there, it seemed there was very little space for the driveshaft. I went and got a slip yoke, slid it in, and couldn't even spin it all the way around. Since the transmission sits so much further back, the yoke is in a slim part of the tunnel (only a couple inches in front of where the carrier bearing used to be), so out came the cutoff wheel. Many hours later, the tunnel is now sealed up and should be big enough to fit a driveshaft.
|
Eric Ewert Eric Ewert Super Moderator Location: Calgary, Ab Join Date: 05/13/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 366 Rally Car: volvo 240 |
|
JohnLane John Lane Ultra Moderator Location: Lynden Washington Join Date: 01/14/2006 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 725 Rally Car: The Fire Breathing Monster |
|
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Professional Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Be less likely to get a bolt head cleaned off if the bolts weren't on the bottom exposed to all those nasty things that so love to smash bolt heads, be just so much nicer on the side of the stamping. But hey why worry? what could possibly happen? John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
heymagic Banned Professional Moderator Location: La la land Join Date: 01/25/2006 Age: Fossilized Posts: 3,740 Rally Car: Not a Volvo |
|
Kyle Kyle Heacock Senior Moderator Location: Portland, OR Join Date: 03/04/2013 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: 81 volvo 242 |
The column is out of a subaru.
I will be doing hdpe underbody protection that will cover the bolts from gravel spray, and if I hit anything hard enough to shear an M10 bolt head, I think I'll have bigger issues to worry about. Lots of rationalization for me not wanting to spend any more time on the transmission mount when there's a shitload more to get done. I still want to get the pedal box mounted, and I have to pull the engine/transmission and return them to their rightful owner, which will give me room to finish up the tunnel work underneath, and then try to get some primer on the bare metal surfaces before the car gets pushed back outside next week. Not having my own dedicated workspace has its challenges. Once this round of work gets done, the next area I want to focus on is the rear axle. Right now, the rear shocks are mounted too close to the wheels; the driver's side spring is contacting the tire and the passenger side has a little more breathing room, but still not enough to allow for articulation. My plan is to move the lower mounts inboard on the axle until the shocks are vertical (they are currently like this: / \ ) and add longer wheel studs and space the wheels out 20mm or so. |
Eric Ewert Eric Ewert Super Moderator Location: Calgary, Ab Join Date: 05/13/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 366 Rally Car: volvo 240 |
|
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Professional Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Plastic armour is nice, but too often its taken to extremes. Like covering all kinds of things making service a big pain in the ass... You could very easily zap on a small piece of steel about the height of the bolt head right in front---socket clearance in front---that way the nasty ass rock whacks the "sacrificial" bar instead, and is somewhat deflected. I used to do that on the aluminum sump guard: a 3/8 x 1.5" bar under and wear that out cause its cheap, rather than thin out that big expensive piece of aluminum. That plastic shit is expensive and I think with a little advance thinking (oh noez! not THAT!!!) a smrat person could spend an awful lot less and selectively armor things with smaller pieces.. 2 screws on the leading edge makes things into flaps which can be bent down to get a wrench/socket on stuff quicker with spending 1/2 hour dismounting acres of plastic.. But, as always, wot dafuq do I know. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Morison Banned Senior Moderator Location: Calgary, AB Join Date: 03/27/2009 Age: Ancient Posts: 1,798 Rally Car: (ex)86 RX-7(built), (ex)2.5RS (bought) |
Nope, That part of the frame can take a shit kicking without damaging any other part of the car. John's right about this... it does need some sort of protection. First Rally: 2001 Driver (7), Co-Driver (44) Drivers (16) Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4) Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0) Last Updated, January 4, 2015
|