rally car project rescue: volvo 242

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john vanlandingham
But, as always, wot dafuq do I know.

You know a lot of valuable things... like everything in this post. Very good points.

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john vanlandingham
You could very easily zap on a small piece of steel about the height of the bolt head right in front---socket clearance in front---that way the nasty ass rock whacks the "sacrificial" bar instead, and is somewhat deflected. I used to do that on the aluminum sump guard: a 3/8 x 1.5" bar under and wear that out cause its cheap, rather than thin out that big expensive piece of aluminum.

Seems to me the Impreza I rallied, which was build by Dave Clark, had washers for the skid plate that were also protection for the bolts. They actually were the same depth as the bolt heads but tapered down to being virtually flush with the skid plate.

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john vanlandingham
That plastic shit is expensive and I think with a little advance thinking (oh noez! not THAT!!!) a smrat person could spend an awful lot less and selectively armor things with smaller pieces.. 2 screws on the leading edge makes things into flaps which can be bent down to get a wrench/socket on stuff quicker with spending 1/2 hour dismounting acres of plastic.

Same as having holes in the right places on your skid plate. One local just added some holes so he can change the LCAs on his focus without dropping the skidplate.
Thinking ahead is good.

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First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

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john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

I have carriage bolts on my sump guard, since it is a "plate to frame"-type-o-thing.
I selected the carriage bolts specifically for low profile as well as being able to ignore damage to the heads.

... good thing I did. The front ones are about ready to be replaced due to being "flush mounted" now...

Also, I had pretty long eyelets for the crotch straps of my belts. Long enough that something like a full inch or so poked through the welded nut on the backside of the strengthening plate on the floor.

Let's just say that they are no longer poking a full inch or so through... but they are a right pain in the rear to get out, since the threads are messed up. Obviously that doesn't add to user friendliness when it comes to getting them back in either.

I vote for either moving, or adding some protection - you will like it .

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Brgrds
Brian





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2014 02:39PM by wildert.

I'll guess most of us old guys have seen nice plastic protection just disappear from under a car at some point. Zip ties break, rivets get abraided, crap happens. Never depend on plastic for absolute protection.

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heymagic
Never depend on latex for absolute protection.

Fixed that for you...

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First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

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john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

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Morison

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heymagic
Never depend on latex for absolute protection.

Fixed that for you...

Well there goes that little black number you wore at the awards banquet....

Got the pedal box mounted today.

This is looking way too fancy for a Volvo.
Nice work.

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Grant Hughes

Ya, it started pretty nice but Kyle is taking to an even higher level.

I bolted the third member into the rearend so I can measure for a driveshaft. Looks like I am going to have to make more room farther back in the tunnel for driveshaft clearance, since the pinion flange is offset to the passenger side quite a bit. Going to get a driveline started tomorrow, and will hopefully have it by the end of the week so I can work on making it fit this weekend.
I also hope to get the rear shocks relocated on the axle, I need to move them inboard for tire clearance, and I will likely have to move them higher up on the axle tube. Right now, when the shocks are bottomed out, the pinion flange is contacting the floor and the watts link is bottomed out as well. I'd like to have a little bit of space so the bumpstops can do their job. This should also help with driveshaft clearance in the impossibly tiny volvo tunnel.

There is officially nothing left of the factory driveshaft tunnel. I picked up the driveline on Friday, installed it, and jacked the axle up (without the springs in place), and the driveshaft contacted the tunnel with 2" of travel left on the shocks. Many hours later, the new tunnel is mostly done. This would have been a really easy project if I had done it before the seat mounts, oops.
I also got a motor, bellhousing, and some miscellaneous parts off of a car that was destined for the scrapper, and scored an extra Supra LSD and 2 RX7 oil coolers from the junkyard. It's about time to start mapping out the engine build and figure out the throwout bearing. I think I'm going to use a tilton made for the T5:

You sir have some first rate fabrication skills, nice work! Im also stumped on what to use for a throw out bearing. Are you running one of JVL's clutch/ flywheel setups by chance?

Tilton, Howe, and Ford both make hydraulic TO bearings. The ford one will usually over travel if used with the wrong master cylinder. Howe and tilton have more stroke in the throw out bearing.

You can also go cable, or push pull slave cylinder. There are kits that use the stock Volvo clutch release arm with stock Volvo TO bearing, and a kit that uses a mustang TO bearing.

Too many options out there, I tell ya!

I'm planning on using a JVL flywheel setup.
That last post was supposed to have a link to the tilton bearing I had in mind: it mounts on a threaded tube that goes over the TOB sleeve on the input bearing retainer. I'm going to have to open up the volvo bellhousing so the T5 bearing retainer can still be used.

Think about the annular type---how much fun bleeding and replacement/service and how much fun it would be pulling the gearbox to cure a little leak vs external slave..




Sorta like the genii who have external fuel pumps who go to a lot of trouble to make the submerged---and oh so quick and easy to dig into the tank to service/replace...compared with external---repositioned somewhere easy and safe.

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Fly-Half
Think about the annular type---how much fun bleeding and replacement/service and how much fun it would be pulling the gearbox to cure a little leak vs external slave..

This! I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder on my old f150, get it all back together aaaaaaannnnnd the slave cylinder leaked right out of the box.

I would highly recommend an external slave mounted to a bracket. Volvo actually did this.
Turbobricksawesomeness of ghetto

Ghetto version of 740 slave + 240 release arm: