RWD purchasing advise!

At this point, I have too much infrastructure in spares and knowledge to casually change horses, you know? Was more of a "what might have been" thing; at this point, I need another project like I need a hole in the head.

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mekilljoydammit
...I need another project like I need a hole in the head.

Holes in the head are useful. I use one for eating and drinking. I use another two for breathing. I use yet two more for listening... although my wife doesn't think I always do.

so, a lot of time wasted and i came home with no car. what i was told by the seller and what was really there 120 miles later, were not the same thing. c'est la vie. so back to the looking glass.

is it really worth it to wait until another 83 or 84 comes along for the b23 engine? because there are some 85-86s up for cheap sale locally...

blah!

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Paul Buck
so, a lot of time wasted and i came home with no car. what i was told by the seller and what was really there 120 miles later, were not the same thing. c'est la vie. so back to the looking glass.

is it really worth it to wait until another 83 or 84 comes along for the b23 engine? because there are some 85-86s up for cheap sale locally...

blah!

'86 is my favorite year for volvo 240 drivetrain. The bosch lh2.2 is easily the best engine management, modern injection with no goofy check engine light; simple, robust and always works. Don't believe the nonsense about the "skinny rod" motors, they work great.

The skinny rods should be okay without boost. If you want to upgrade to the thicker rods, I will gladly donate you a set I have.
Lh2.2 is nice for simplicity and tuning. Lh2.4 is okay, it "self tunes" but you can't adjust ignition without a chip. So you're kind of stuck with a certain amount of oomph (and a stupid low rev limiter at 6200rpm) with lh2.4.

Search for any Volvo 240 that runs decently with a manual trans. That will be good enough to get you sideways with very minimal work, unless you like to do a bunch of fab work. Then get whatever you want and get ready for a lot of long nights.

What's your purchasing budget and goals? I can help look for something.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2015 10:36PM by Robert Culbertson.

I can put out feelers as well. Oregon Volvo Tuners is a good group of local guys with several hoarders in the group. If I need something I first go there, then the pick n pull. Kyle, president of Ovt works the desk at the v-shop on Barbur. Great guy, always willing to help out. Maybe stop by there and have a chat.

My whip is out at primitive I'd be happy to show it off sometime but it is a bit like staring at the bottom of a giant hole

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Zap zap my ass...

ok. you local guys, i'm looking for 83 to 86 242 or 244. manny tranny. running! my goal is to have fun with it and do some grassocross and get a feel for the car before i start ripping it apart for stage.

don't want to pay over a grand for the car. so i'm looking for running beaters. the worse the interior the better. drive those prices down!!

there's a lot on columbia blvd that's full of old volvos, thinking about stopping there as well.

thanks everyone!

Why not just use a volvo with the B230?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4899971062.html

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4949241113.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4932215824.html

FYI, wagons weigh about 50-75lbs more than a sedan
Manual swaps can be done in a day without much sweat.

Just Sayin,

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p0inT92
Why not just use a volvo with the B230?

Turn the question around:
If we have plenty of old one---which we do---

with a virtually unbreakable forged steel crank?


Volvo went to 2 extremes with the B20/B2/B23
EVERYTHING in the earier is crazy OVERBUILT..
The crank is bigger than a Small Block Chevrolet crank..
The rods look like diesel truck rods..

It heavy but strong...sounds good for a club rallyist


Then they decided to make their "low friction" motor and made the crank much smaller:
mains went down from 63.5mm to 55mm, rod rod journal went down from 54mm to 49mm and the rods look like something from a lawn mower...


Weak, and they had enough problems Volvo first revised the rods making them "much less completely useless", and then revised the crank---keeping the 49mm rod journal but going back to about 63.5mm

When it comes time to build a proper motor, then it really doesn't matter which one cause we dump the standard B23 crazy heavy ones AND the B230 insanely weak rods in either case and I make longer rods--same length for both--160mm c-c and then the pistons are the same..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham

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p0inT92
Why not just use a volvo with the B230?

Turn the question around: it's basically a SBC, so why isn't everyone throwing v8s into their ovlovs?

Fixed that for you John

The b230 with the later rods is a very stout engine. The b23 is even more so, but it's a heavy pig (pistons, rods, and crank are HUGE).

B230s have been boosted to over 300whp for well over a decade with no issues, and yes, the b23 even more so. Don't let John scare you into the heavy pig, it's an alternative. The B230 has been rocking in the blue car for a year or so now without a single issue (150k mi used bottom end). It regularly sees rpms over 6k, with a few prolonged pulls towards 7500+. I have no clue what's in the Hardy's Volvo, but that thing has been running for over a decade on boost.

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Robert Culbertson

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john vanlandingham

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p0inT92
Why not just use a volvo with the B230?

Turn the question around: it's basically a SBC, so why isn't everyone throwing v8s into their ovlovs?

Fixed that for you John

The b230 with the later rods is a very stout engine. The b23 is even more so, but it's a heavy pig (pistons, rods, and crank are HUGE).

B230s have been boosted to over 300whp for well over a decade with no issues, and yes, the b23 even more so. Don't let John scare you into the heavy pig, it's an alternative. The B230 has been rocking in the blue car for a year or so now without a single issue (150k mi used bottom end). It regularly sees rpms over 6k, with a few prolonged pulls towards 7500+. I have no clue what's in the Hardy's Volvo, but that thing has been running for over a decade on boost.

Culbertson I said that very thing except you are so determined to prove you know more you can't see that..


STOCK is what the guy is going to start with..
STOCK the old design is stronger..

Built with proper parts, no EFFECTIVE difference.


Why not start with a strionger design if it costs the same?

No reasonable argument..

You just want to argue, Robert, simple as that.
I've already told him if he stubles across a deal with a B230 and everything else otherwise fits the bill, then go for it..

The operative motto is NO DOGMA...

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

John, I'm not trying to argue with you at all or prove anything. When you offer advice, it seems one sided. Dude above asks about b230, you mention only the benefits of the b23. Nothing about the reliability and durability of the b230.

You have a lot of great knowledge that you freely give in exchange for 4hrs on the phone. You have a lot of great knowledge. To me, it comes off as being one sided though.

For a starter NA Volvo rally car, anything will work. B21, b23 or a b230 with skinny or wide rods. When copious amounts of boost are thrown at it, then there is going to be an issue. But! Since you can find a decent used, complete Volvo redblock engine for $350 (turbo engine)... Why worry about the base to start with?

Paul,
Stay away from that lot on Columbia. Owned by rich of riches volvos only. Biggest thieve in the portland Volvo scene. Plenty of other places. Vol tech is right by there. They are expensive but honest enough.

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Zap zap my ass...