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Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)

Posted by BobOfTheFuture 
BobOfTheFuture
Rob Russo
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Re: Yes, More Mk2.
April 01, 2015 06:00PM
It's pretty funny, I keep finding people who know more about the car than myself, or the people I bought it from.

Rev limiter? How do they have a rev limiter? As far as I can tell this car has the basic CIS injection, does the ignition module control that?


Quote
Josh Wimpey
Water temp never budges from 180f.

Ok, so maybe I have an issue. I've got to see what thermostat is in this, but the water while in traffic got up to 210 or more (kind of a shitty gauge to be honest) and rising. It only leveled off to the 180-200 range once on the parkway.



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BobOfTheFuture
Rob Russo
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Re: Yes, More Mk2.
April 01, 2015 06:01PM
Quote
hoche
Oh!

That's an 8v CIS head on an ABA block. It's got hydraulic lifters and a mild cam, probably something like a 268.


This is all just about right BTW.



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hoche
Michel Hoche-Mong
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Re: Yes, More Mk2.
April 01, 2015 07:35PM
Quote
BobOfTheFuture
Rev limiter? How do they have a rev limiter? As far as I can tell this car has the basic CIS injection, does the ignition module control that?

I think it's built off an '86, which would mean it's CIS-E, and yes, the ignition module controls that. Technically it'd be the knock-sensor module, which is a separate box over on the passenger side of the rain tray, but that may have been changed. Either way, it's hardcoded and you can't change the rev limit except by changing the module. It's the same system that controls the advance - it reads the engine speed from the Hall Sender in the distributor, gathers other information like the temperature and O2 reading and knock sounds and whether either the idle or full-throttle switch are activated, and then tweaks the fuel pressure going to the injectors (all of them flow all the time) and when the spark should happen. If it detects a too-high RPM, I think it just cuts the spark, but I'm not sure. It may decrease the injector pressure too.

Quote
BobOfTheFuture
Ok, so maybe I have an issue. I've got to see what thermostat is in this, but the water while in traffic got up to 210 or more (kind of a shitty gauge to be honest) and rising. It only leveled off to the 180-200 range once on the parkway.

Sounds like a partly-clogged radiator to me. A radiator, waterpump, and thermostat shouldn't be much more than about $150 and are easy to change. Put in new belts while you're at it. If you do all that, you'll want the tool marked "Power steering pump pulley holder" on this page http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Engine+and+valvetrain. In fact, you can probably just get all the parts from them - they've been pretty good to me.



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Robert Culbertson
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Re: Yes, More Mk2.
April 01, 2015 07:47PM
Quote
hoche
... If you do all that, you'll want the tool marked "Power steering pump pulley holder" on this page http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Engine+and+valvetrain. In fact, you can probably just get all the parts from them - they've been pretty good to me.

I didn't even know that tool existed! How have I been doing this for years without it?! Tight belt + allen wrench clocked just right + loctite + dumb luck = the bolts being tight enough to keep my water pump pulley from falling off. That tool is definitely worth the monies.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2015 07:48PM by Robert Culbertson.
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hoche
Michel Hoche-Mong
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Re: Yes, More Mk2.
April 01, 2015 08:10PM
You can kinda make one by welding a short piece of square bar as a T on a longer handle, and then hooking that over/under two of the allens while you loosen the third and so on, but that tool's pretty cheap and works well.

That reminds me - when you take the pulleys off the old water pump, make sure you put them back on with the same sides facing in/out. The pulleys are slightly offset and designed to be flipped around to suit the myriad combinations of PS/no-PS AC/no-AC, etc. If you put them on in the wrong direction you're liable to start tossing belts.

And be very gentle with the allen head screws. If you lose or strip them, you can't just replace them with regular bolts - they won't seat right.



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DG_Rally
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 02, 2015 03:04PM
Have you checked if your radiator fan is turning on? Mine wasn't and I experienced the same over heating at standstill situation. Something to check before throwing parts at it.



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BobOfTheFuture
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 12:46PM
It's on a switch, and quite loud! Yep works fine.

How important are the flappy guys on the fan shroud? I'm missing at least one...



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Pete
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 01:37PM
Pretty important, they make sure the fan is pulling through the radiator. The flapper is German overengineering, the theory is that the fan is restrictive at high speed and it allows air going through the radiator to bypass the fan. The theory is pretty much wrong, too.

It does way more bad to have the flapper missing than to have a piece of aluminum or plastic riveted over the hole.

This is the same engineering that made the oil breather system so crappy that when revs were held over 5500-6000 for significant time, the oil would back up under the valve cover and blow out the breather/fill cap and run down onto the exhaust manifold, which is pretty exciting.



Pete Remner
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1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2015 01:38PM by Pete.
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hoche
Michel Hoche-Mong
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 02:55PM
Quote
Pete
This is the same engineering that made the oil breather system so crappy that when revs were held over 5500-6000 for significant time, the oil would back up under the valve cover and blow out the breather/fill cap and run down onto the exhaust manifold, which is pretty exciting.

I have never seen that happen except on an engine that was overfilled with oil.



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Pete
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 03:30PM
It happened every time I rallycrossed my Golf. With the 3.67 gearing, I ended up using 1st gear a lot and it was easier to just bang the rev limiter for a few seconds than to upshift and try to downshift into the correct gear.

Loved the car, hated the shift linkage. And I was anal retentive about making sure there was no play and it was properly adjusted and the reverse interlock blocker plastic was in good shape. I'm STILL finding worn 020 shift linkage bits in my stuff piles and I haven't had that car for seven years and two moves.



Pete Remner
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1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.
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BobOfTheFuture
Rob Russo
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 03:53PM
Quote
Pete
It does way more bad to have the flapper missing than to have a piece of aluminum or plastic riveted over the hole.

Copy. That.


Next adventure... pressing new bearings into some spare front knuckles I've got. First went great. On the second, the hub touches the knuckle like I pressed it on too far.

I'm thinking that to keep the hub from shearing, it must be seated fully into the bearing inner race. the bearing is pressed fully against the outer circle clip... so no clearance to gain there.

Old knuckles, new FAG bearings, and new hubs, but from 2 different brands Meyle one works and the KMM does not. They have identical part numbers. I was able to press the hub out of the bearing somewhat to make the clearance (hub no longer seated) I made it equal to the first assy that went together fine.

This will just result in an quick death, right?

Any suggestions on what the issue is? or where to get better new hubs? the FAG bearings are 'the ones to use' I thought...



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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2015 04:25PM by BobOfTheFuture.
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Pete
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 04:26PM
As soon as you tighten the axle down it will pull that hub in to the bearing. Something's the wrong part. I don't see it as being a bearing problem, it's gotta be a hub problem.



Pete Remner
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BobOfTheFuture
Rob Russo
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 05:00PM
Ok, It was the KMM hub. I pressed it out and pressed back on the best looking used hub I had, problem solved.

That was a brand new FAG bearing, and there is no way to support it when pressing out the hub.

Is the bearing garbage? It feels just as tight as the other new assembly that went together without a hitch, just a barely perceptible tiny amount of play on both.



Pete, I didn't see your response till just now. The KMM hub, even though it's an identical PN, is the problem.
But I understand what you mean, the huge torque on the axle nut would just reseat the hub.



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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2015 05:04PM by BobOfTheFuture.
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Pete
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 07:27PM
Did the inner race stay stuck to the hub when you pressed the defective one out, or did it stay in the bearing assembly?

If it stayed in the bearing assembly, all good. If it stayed on the hub, maybe 50/50 that the bearing will have a short life/is bad now because those races don't like to be forcefully removed.



Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.
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BobOfTheFuture
Rob Russo
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Re: Yes, More Mk2. (VW, Aaron!)
April 04, 2015 10:56PM
Nope, it did stay together. It got a bit loose, but once reassembled with the other hub, its just as snug as the other. Yeah, I guess I'll give it a shot. Long story short, Avoid KMM.



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