1990 Mustang 5.0 Rally Build

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john vanlandingham
OK well think about the length 26.65" c-c and an eyelet top BEFORE the rar back stays and diagonals are in cause those tubes+ one up from the base of the main hoop, OUGHT to go to the towers.

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Hambone1966

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john vanlandingham
OK well think about the length 26.65" c-c and an eyelet top BEFORE the rar back stays and diagonals are in cause those tubes+ one up from the base of the main hoop, OUGHT to go to the towers.

It was already too late to do that when you told me that and I didn't want to make a big deal at the time because it was a friend.

I guess what you'd do is cut the tops off the rear shock towers, increase their height, remove/realign the rear back stay to the top of the taller towers, and fit a 26.65" shock in there? I'm not sure what that will cost me or if I can do that and everything else, but it's worth an ask.

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From Hurst...

Strength-wise, the fox unibodies are pretty bad.


The strut towers must be reinforced and tied to the firewall or cage
The area where the "frame rail" portion of the underhood unibody terminates at the firewall must be reinforced with outriggers from the cage
The upper rear suspension mounts must be reinforced by outriggers from the main hoop, bolted though.
The lower rear suspension "torque boxes" must be reinforced by outriggers from the cage or weld-in subframe connectors, or both


Even with this all done, and the 351W based engine that added 150lbs over the 5.0, the car weighed the same as an SP Subaru.


If I had to do it over again, I would have stuck with the 5.0 based engine at about 375HP instead of the larger, heavier engine at 440.


Stock V8 front springs on the stock front arms with hard bushings and good moog ball joints. 12" 200lb coil over springs on the KYB adjustable struts, and a 4cyl front sway bar.


The rear suspension was stock geometry, the key was some trick experimental upper axle bushings from Ford. They were cast rubber instead of pressed. The OE pressed ones last about one stage, and the aftermarket hard bushings don't have enough give for what theses arms must do, and everything will break with hard bushings. For lower arms, I used drag race parts that had hard bushings on the axle end and heims on the body end. There was no axle hop with this set-up, but there was quite a bit with the stock parts.


The rear shock were Afco street-stock oval track shocks, with monroe replacement "traction shocks", cut down moog cargo-coil springs from the little LTD (Fox body) wagon, no rear sway bar.


I used Lincoln Mk7 front brakes and master cylinder, and Thunderbird turbo coupe rear rotors with GM metric RWD A-body front calipers on the rear with afco brackets and a pressure limiting bias control. The entire rear brake set-up cost $150 using new or factory rebuilt parts.

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Aaron Luptak
have you already addressed the 'quadrabind' rear arms?


Not sure how big a difference long shocks, towers, etc. are going to make while you're still running stubby little links at a 45 degree angle.

(I do understand the looking-forward-to-a-proper-4-link aspect...)

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tdrrally
look at the steeda four link
with an sn95 rear axle or disk brake set up

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/images/a/cms/48186/48186.jpg

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tdrrally
look at the steeda four link
with an sn95 rear axle or disk brake set up

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/images/a/cms/48186/48186.jpg