Diagnosing and repairing motor problem

WACKJOB

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...If you don't go off at least once a season you are not trying hard enough...

Taking it to a mechanic is a last case scenario now, up until last weekend when I worked on the front end and brakes, it was a first case scenario.

I appreciate everyone's help and patience, Thanks !

I do recognize the need to pass out a few rounds of pints to everyone who cointributes, when I see you at Rally's.

Thanks again.

Keep in mind the battery, ignition switch and starter relay have not be verified as working properly either.

Did you try jumping directly to the starter? Kind of exciting, but a quick way to test. Have you checked battery voltage yet?

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www.rallyrace.net

Skye Wrote:
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> Keep in mind the battery, ignition switch and
> starter relay have not be verified as working
> properly either.
>
> Did you try jumping directly to the starter? Kind
> of exciting, but a quick way to test. Have you
> checked battery voltage yet?
If I recall, the damn ignition switch was being baulky.
AND!!!!! there is some dumb inter-lock thing hanging in the wires under the car somewhat on the driver's side, I can't understand why Paul Morgan the car's original builder or Pete"leave your checkbook at the door, you won't be needing that" Cascade didn't eliminate thew stupid "has to be in neutral" or its 100% dead clusterfuck.
Crawl under and see if ANYTHING looks unplugged and get the wires secured better.
LATER get rid of them and wire the ignition switch so it works anytime, any gear.

I am beginning to think this may be the problem but I'd still make sure there is a FULLY CHARGED alternate battery, (I didn't say try to jump THRU the current battery, dammit) get it out of there, shove it in the Toyota, shove the Toyota batt in the car, cleaN THE TERMINALS, CLEAN THEIR ATTACHING POINTS, CONFIRM THE GROUND i RAN FROM BLOCK TO CHASSI, i THINK i USED BATTERY CABLE OR BARE WOVEN WIRE.
fUCKIN CAPS LOCK.

sKYE WHY DOESN'T THE POOTER GO BEEP WHEN i HIT CAPS LOCK MISTAKENLY, fUCKIN pOOOTERS!
>
>
> ______
> Undercover Canadian evildoer
> Rally car's almost done I swear...
> www.rallyrace.net

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

The started gizmo that made it necessary to start in neutral is gone.

My battary is in the trunk so I couldn't test voltage from battary to block, I think someone suggested that ?

Bat - trunk 12.6V
Source wire from main disconnect to fender 12.6V
Source wire to block 12.6V

Am I completely fucking up ?

I'm home today so I can run back and fourth between the puuuter and car.

OK, 12.6V is fully charged. Now try jumping directly to the starter.

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www.rallyrace.net

BTW here's a good training manual, read through it sometime when you're bored:

Prestolite Training Manual

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www.rallyrace.net



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2006 03:09PM by Skye.

"Now try jumping directly to the starter."

Do you mean jump starting directly to the starter as opposed to off the battary ?

Yes, directly to the starter. If it turns over, then there's a problem with the ignition switch or starter relay or cables. If it clicks just like before, then move on to trying to turn the crankshaft.

That's assuming of course, that the battery you're jumping from is good.

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www.rallyrace.net

Here's the electrical troublshooting flowchart.....

http://www.g60.f4.ca/technical/prestolite-trngflwchrt_pp1154.pdf

It's not really applicable in this case, more for charging issues, but it is a good example of a methodical troubleshooting process.

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www.rallyrace.net



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2006 03:16PM by Skye.

Skye Wrote:
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> Yes, directly to the starter. If it turns over,
> then there's a problem with the ignition switch or
> starter relay or cables. If it clicks just like
> before, then move on to trying to turn the
> crankshaft.
>
> That's assuming of course, that the battery you're
> jumping from is good.


Okay... I haven't read this whole thread, and might have missed something. So sue me.

12.6V could be a surface charge if recently removed from a charger. Forget about it for now.

Try turning over the engine by hand (with wrench, socket, etc) before looking at the electrics.

But what does a zit like me know?

Iv'e got the cable from the main disconnect going directly to the starter, then a heavy guage wire from the starter to the altenator.

The cable on the starter reads 12.6V

I took my battary charger and set it to "start" then attached it to the starter terminal. The combination read 15.36V ?

Still won't crank the motor.

I tried in neutral and with and without the clutch to the floor.

So my next step is to get a socket on the crank then go get a 3 foot hollow persuader ?

If so, should I be turning the crank clockwise or counter clockwise when I'm standing in front of the car looking at the motor ?

clockwise.
anti clockwise and you might simply loosen the front pully bolt.
Oh I found an alternator here that is Japonaise yesterday. I'll give it to one of the crew coming down, it must be yours, I don't usually let Jap-Crap on site.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Morten Wrote:
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> I took my battary charger and set it to "start"
> then attached it to the starter terminal. The
> combination read 15.36V ?

15+ is normal with a charger.

> Still won't crank the motor.

If it isn't a heavy duty charger the voltage spec doesn't matter. Forget the electrics for now.


If the car is on the ground you can put it in gear and "bump" push the car to see if the engine turns at all.

> So my next step is to get a socket on the crank
> then go get a 3 foot hollow persuader ?

Don't over-do it. If you can't turn it without getting a hernia your engine has a problem. Don't break anything.

> If so, should I be turning the crank clockwise or
> counter clockwise when I'm standing in front of
> the car looking at the motor ?

99.9999% of all engines rotate clockwise when looking at the front pulley. Ask someone who knows your car. Or.... buy a manual! And, then, get this... read it! :-)

Gawd... kids today.

Put it on the range closest to where you think the measurement should be. This is because the meter will be most acurate at that setting. In this case, set at the lowest range, 0-200 because the desisred reading is 0.
Richard the electrical engineer

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RichardM