welding diff on a fwd (honda)

hey folk, after some search function action can't find a good how to weld a fwd diff. sure i could hit honda tech or several other honda fan boy sites but lets be realistic about how many rally driven cars are there. (honda techs actually really good but..)
wondering if someone can gimme a hand with some info and clutch advice. i have a stock mill thats putting 110hp to the ground. my main concern is clamping force now that we'll be driving two wheels full time on top of how/where yu should weld the diff.
thanks in advance!

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All bridges burnt, island life is beauty

Most folks weld the side gears and spider gears to each other and to the differential case itself. But as we're talking about welding hardened steel to cast iron usually, it's an iffy process.

I've had really good luck cutting 3/16" or 1/4" steel plates and welding them to either side of the spider/side gears. Steel to steel welds better.

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Of course its always a good idea to have the stub shafts in place to center up the side gears...
Wouldn't want to have the stubs not want to poke in..Seen that.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

awsome guys! thanks! two things i def. hadn't considered yet. considering a stage 1 clutch and regular flywheel. is decel momentum crucial with welded diff or does the dynamic of a welded diff change decel to the point where a light flywheel helps or hurts. only experience please as i understand the theory.

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All bridges burnt, island life is beauty



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2016 09:14PM by Snidewhips.

Quote
Snidewhips
awsome guys! thanks! two things i def. hadn't considered yet. considering a stage 1 clutch and regular flywheel. is decel momentum crucial with welded diff or does the dynamic of a welded diff change decel to the point where a light flywheel helps or hurts. only experience please as i understand the theory.

In general don't worry about any weights of stuff in a Honda..it ain't a Volvo with a slab of iron the size of a man-hole and weighing 32lbs..Reliability! toleration of bone headedness. Iron is OK, steel is good, aluminum is bullshit... I wouldn't spend any money on flywheel..Get a PUCK type cerrametallic thing--4 puck is fine and you instantly have approx 30% more torque capacity than organic disc..So that with a STOCK OEM quality pressure plate is fine.. I didn't even ask what this junk you were thinking costs..Don't want to know..Whatever it costs save it and put it towards a real LSD and a final drive...
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more return on performance and fun that a little piddly reduction is moment of inertia

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

the trans i currently run is under the ls rs in 90-93. s1/ys1 in chart (i have 2 of em)found a whole car (gsr) for 300 with a good trans that is a ys1 cable ala 92 93 gsr in chart ratios 4.4 finL drive both ways, gears better in gsr with torqier non vtec engine should he good, plus can get plated rally diffs for gsr trans. plan is to weld non desirable trans's and build a good engine (current ls has 244000kms) then take care of diffs when i find a second gsr gear box. this thing is geared pretty low

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All bridges burnt, island life is beauty



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2016 01:10AM by Snidewhips.

The benefit of the lightweight flywheel on the Honda is that it will save the 2nd gear syncros. 1st to 2nd has normally a big drop and it has a tendency of wearing quick with fast shifts.