lima 2.3 DOHC

i like the idea and i did just pick up a second fox mustang that was 2.3 5 speed stock.
is this good information ?

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/2016 06:25PM by tdrrally.

Thats great information. not much, but really good stuff. I liked the big black rectangle a lot.

Quote
alkun
Thats great information. not much, but really good stuff. I liked the big black rectangle a lot.

Golly, gee, Mr Science, I thought twas only me getting the Black Square of Information...

Does look sorta nice, like the Black Flag!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

i'm not sure why the youtube link is not working

"www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvVY9z7-l0U"

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/2016 06:27PM by tdrrally.

Volvo B234F Head Conversion for 2.3L OHC Ford

Introduction:

The cylinder head off a �89 - �90 Volvo 740GLE B234F engine can be used on the Ford 2.3L OHC short block, commonly seen in a turbo configuration in the 1980�s Turbo Mustangs, SVO Mustangs, Merkur XR4Ti�s, and Thunderbird Turbo Coupes. This is an effort to provide one solution, out of many possible, to clearly guide one through the conversion process. The B234F Volvo engine may have also been available in a '91 940GLE sedan or wagon. Early B234F engines had a mechanical cam belt tensioner. Later ones had a hydraulic tensioner. A head off of either engine will work as described below for this conversion.

In addition to the cylinder head modifications detailed below, intake and exhaust manifolds will have to be constructed as the stock Ford 2.3lt. manifolds will not fit. There was a turbocharged Volvo engine but the manifold is not suitable to this conversion as it places the turbo in the same location as the Ford starter. The head to manifold flanges and the parts of the individual runners containing the injector mounting bosses can be used from the Volvo intake but the runners will have to be angled up to clear the left hand drive brake hardware.

Overview and General Considerations:

Familiarity with every component is the key to success, so direct your attention to the Ford block, Ford and Volvo heads and head gaskets, the engine coolant systems, oil supply systems, fasteners, factory recommended maintenance (especially with regard to the Volvo cam tower sealants), valve train systems and components (including cam gears, belts, tensioners, their relative alignment with each other and the block, and piston-to-valve interference points).

Volvo Engine Overview:

740 Engine four cylinders gasoline engines: N/A 8v - 114 HP, Turbo 8v - 160 HP, N/A 16 valve: 153 HP

Volvo 16v flow (with the stock .430 cam and port matching): 240 cfm [unverified claim]

Esslinger Engineering aluminum head flow (with a .585 cam at 6500 rpm): 260 cfm

Stock Combustion chamber volume = 53cc

Volvo head maintenance: Breakdown of the gasket sealer (used in place of gaskets) on the Volvo 16V cause oil leaks onto the cam tower faces; solution - reapply sealer every 40K-50K mi.

Head fastener info:

head bolts 14mm.

manifold nuts 13mm

support bracket for intake 12mm

timing cover bolts are 10mm and 12mm

water pump pulley 10mm nuts

valve cover 10mm

the best tool for the intake nuts is a �" drive ratchet, extension, and 13mm swivel socket

Torque Specs: xx

Valves: The 16v is a N/A head and if turbocharged, the valves, especially the exhaust, should be changed. There is room to install larger valves, the stock sizes are 34.5mm intake and 31.5mm exhaust. Oversize valves up to 36mm on the intake and 34.5mm on the exhaust can be used. New cam buckets aren�t needed for the conversion, but can be obtained.

Head Comparison: The Porsche-designed Volvo head, is noticeably shorter than the Ford. Ford�s combustion chambers (and cylinders) are evenly spaced, the Volvo�s are not. The head bolt locations, two of the three oil return holes, and some of the water passages holes match exactly and the others can be matched.

Oil: The Ford head receives oil from the rear, the Volvo from the front. Run a line from the pressure side of the pump, from the back of the block, where there�s already a tapped line, to the side (preferably the front) of the Volvo cam tower assembly. The actual cylinder head itself does not require any pressurized oil supply. All of the requirements for pressurized oil supply is confined to the cam tower assembly. The resulting drain back takes place through the lower main cylinder head. The Volvo bucket tappets are hydraulic with no lash adjustment shims. Higher performance cams are available but they may require changing to solid tappet buckets with adjustment shims.

Water passages: Water can be run externally, but many of the water passages already match and are all very close. The water passages in the Volvo head, quite possibly, can just be enlarged to be able to supply the needed water, however cooling at the back of the piston on #4 is less important than matching water passages to the gasket. The downward opening passage in the front of the Volvo head is the water pump bypass; it uses an o-ring between the passage and the pump. Seal the opening and install a connection to the heater core line.

Parts Required:

Off the shelf:

Oil feed line: taps, fittings and a -3 pressure line to feed oil to the head from the block feed point. (Custom length)

Cam Sprockets: Volvo, round tooth from 16v made adjustable (vernier)

Timing Belt Tensioner: stock Ford mounted on a plate

Tensioner (2nd pulley) for Timing Belt: Volvo, from 8v motor

Crank Gear: new (round tooth) Ford Ranger crankshaft gear, spaced 5/16" (or 8mm) from block.

Distributor Gear: new (round tooth) Ford Ranger distributor (auxiliary shaft) gear

Water Pump Sprocket (from new Ranger motor)?

Timing Belt: 3.0 Mitsubishi - 25mm wide x 55 7/8 long, pitch - 9.5mm or 3/8"

Gasket, Head: Fel-Pro 1035 (Performance Line) for the Ford 2300

Gaskets, Intake: Fel-Pro MS95263 for the Volvo B234F

Gasket, Exhaust: custom or none

Valves: Racing Engine Valves (REV)

Fabricated:

Tensioner mounting plate

Head block

Machining Required:

Block Modifications:

Tap and thread the rear oil return passage of the block and install a pipe plug. Rear jackets don�t need to be blocked. Install pistons with custom valve reliefs or cut reliefs into stock pistons.

Head Modifications:

The front water outlet must be sealed at the bottom and fitted with an outlet opening towards the passenger side. Fill and cc the middle combustion chambers to better match the head gasket (.060). Match the necessary water passages with the Ford gasket. Tap the head to accept an external oil feed. Prepare and machine the block of aluminum, then tig weld to the back of the Volvo head. Appropriately surface and true the head. Install the external oil supply line from the added block to the forward tapped point.

Details of aluminum block attachment:

Dimensions � width of Volvo head x height of Volvo head x (length of ford head - length of Volvo head, sort of)

Details of tensioner mounting plate:

Shape, drill points, mounts points etc.

Assembly:

Install head

Install valve gear: Mount the Ford tensioner on a plate, mount the plate on the front of the Volvo head, fit the belt to the tensioner, and confirm all rotating belt parts are on same vertical plane. Belt Routing: A plate goes across the top, front bolt holes on the Volvo head, which has a locator pin hole drilled into it for the 8 valve Volvo tensioner. Tensioner bolt comes off of the left passenger side bolt hole in the head. Verify the intermediate and crank sprockets are spaced appropriately from the block for the belt to run true. Time the motor.

Install intake

Install exhaust

Install accessories, radiator, intercooler, a/c etc.

Cylinder head considerations:

1. Oil feed to the head: run hose from block or remote oil filter directly to the upper head section and plug the Ford block to the head in the left rear corner with an allen plug.

2. Instead of placing a small block of aluminum across the back of the head we will be placing a full length, top to bottom piece of aluminum across the back of the head to guarantee that we do not have any oil/water leaks. An additional oil drain hole will be drilled into the back of the head since one of the three factory oil drain holes will be plugged. We were going to also drill an oil supply hole and supply the factory oil feed hole with the oil supply, but we have decided against it and we will be running an external line from the outside, through the side of the upper head section, where no water lives, and supply the oil to the internal feeders at a better location in order to supply both sides of the head simultaneously.

Suppliers and Alternative Components

Engine Management:

There are a lot of fuel management possibilities out there:

FELPRO/SPEEDPRO SEFI8LO is probably the best for the money,

EEC-Tuner is good on a variety of Ford ECMs (A3M1 is best but the wiring has to be swapped). The wiring kit complete from computer to sensor plugs is readily available at Painless Performance.

Cam discussion:

Richard Prince is the contact. The modified cam specs are: Advertised duration 268 degrees, duration at 0.050", cam lift 228 degrees. Lift 0.438" Cam lift at TDC 0.070" Intake centerline 109degrees ATDC. Lobe separation angle 112degrees

Stock cams and gears: A$100

Modify cams to specs: A$886
10% tax on $886: A$89
Modify cam gears to vernier: A$300
Subtotal A$1,375 plus shipping, customs, my service fee 10% A$135 import duty to your account
Total A$1,510


This configuration requires no change to cam buckets

Valves:

REV can provide larger valves. Also consider using alloy valves and before the swap, also the valve faces could be coated, as well as the outside of the head for a little better heat retention, and the tops of pistons as well. Larger replacement valves: 36 and 34.5; they will require new exhaust seats, the intake will cut out far enough. One possibility: Porsche 928 S4(?), 7mm dia., hyd. Adj., intakes 37mm, exhausts 33mm

Timing Belt:

3.0 Mitsubishi 25mm w x 55 7/8� l, pitch - 9.5mm or 3/8", Hyundai 29mm wide, Ford 19mm. Use Volvo 8v cam sprockets if a square-tooth belt (like the stock Ford) is desired.

Cooling System:

It is possible to use the Davies-Craig electric water pump and not even use a bypass, and use another electric pump for the heater core loop, like Mercedes and BMW are both doing.

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

God what a load of craptastic info...Way too much to type corrections..
Headbolts are M12 x 1.75mm

BOLR spacing same as Ford, but cylinder spacing is not the EXACT same:
c-c distance cylinders 1-2 is same as cylinders 3 and 4 but the coc between cylinders 2 and 3 is approximately 2mm wider so the chamber and valve reliefs will have to take that into account...

Very skeptical of flow figures...the valve circumference is always a primary question--no matter what a port or port+manifold can flow, the flow must flow around the valve tp get into the cylinder so valve circumference counts (not area)

Stock size intake to stock size intake valve
Ford ..........Intake 1 x 1.740" aka 44.2mm Exhaust....1 x 1.5" aka 38mm
Volvo .........Intake 2 x 1.338" aka 34mm.....Exhaust....2 x 31mm

Circumference of Ford stock intake valve.................138.78mm
Circumference of Volvo stock 2 intake valves............213.52mm

Already at stock size 53.8% more circumference....

And that is only FLOW..with stock valve sizes...there is room for 2x 39mm:

Here are some more trustworthy figures if only because these guys have OCD:



Lyft mm..............................Insug......................................Avgas
2............................................73..........................................73
4..........................................134.5.......................................158
6..........................................195...........................................224
8...........................................247..........................................270
10.........................................287...........................................291
12.........................................311...........................................300
14.........................................322............................................302
16..........................................334

http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/volvo16vrc.html

Once the air in in then you gotten burn it..

And there the pent-roof, aluminum head with OK quench pads is a nice thing to have..

You could make lotsa nice powerxz even in n.a.form on pump gas...way easy to go right overboard into the "oh fawk what to do I'm burning up my tires to fast" range.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

http://starcityracing.com/Forums/showthread.php?36426-The-FOLVO-build

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Quote
tdrrally
http://starcityracing.com/Forums/showthread.php?36426-The-FOLVO-build

Are you going to just post links and we're supposed to read whole threads and find gems or turds?

How about this:

Quote

9th October 2010, 09:17 AM #12
jangus jangus is offline
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Join Date
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They're just not as robust as the Ford 2.3. Cranks and rods are just a little wimpy. There is aftermarket support for them, but it's considerably more expensive that domestic engines. Most of it comes from Europe.
The Ford 2.3 is actually fairly overbuilt to begin with.

Utter bullshit---typical forum bullshit... The Redblocks come in 2 varieies mainly:
B21/23

and B200/B230

B200 is 88.9 x 80, B21 is 92 x 80 and B23 and B230 are same as Lima 96 x 80 (pfffft to 2.5 lima and 2.5 Volvo--both just stroked to 86)

ALL are stout, the B21 and B23 especially in the cranks are FAR stouter cranks and rods..Block mainline is the main area they differ..Volvo is stout but not quite as much meat in the block side---
B21/B23 cranks have 54mm rod journals and 2.5" main--in a BIG forged steel crank
B200/B230 have 49mm rod journal, and early had 55mm mains--both big by modern stands--later went back to 63.5mm mains in a full counterweighted cast iron crank.

Ford rod journal is 52mm , mains are 60.93mm, kinda spindly looking cast iron

Early Volvo B21/B23 rods look like they came outta a diesel..145mm c-c and 890g weight
Early B200/230 rods ARE faily wimpy..later just scary wimpy...152mm c-c
All are bushed and pistons have floating pins...
Fords are 132mm, nothing special...too short for serious performance, pressed pins

Want me to go on?

You should note that there ARE smarter ways than welding a hunk of thick aluminum onto the back of the head...
I have 3 hear just for "fun" projects..

Note; the n.a Volvo 16v cams are lame limp girly man cams and really dumb to use on a turbo application. Typical peak torque is around 4600-4800 and not too impressive..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

now we're getting somewhere.

my concern is overall cost, from short block in the car to dohc intercooled driver. they say the head flows nearly as well as the esslinger, the esslinger sohc Aluminum D-Port Head M-6049-E23A new is $1900 and is plug and play for the most with the specs:
- 20lbs. Lighter than stock
- 11/32" Bronze valve guides
- Uses .530" metal clad Viton valve seals
- Uses 1.890" & 1.590" Oversize valves
- ~63cc. CNC machined combustion chambers
- Uses all the same manifolds & headers as an OEM D-Port head
- Head can be milled down to 39cc for high-compression engines!
- Machined for 1.625" valvespring height with .400" tip height 4.800" long valves

while the esslinger arca head is $2250 but does require the use of different manifolds
Specs:

- 20lbs. Lighter than stock
- 11/32" Bronze valve guides
- Uses .530" metal clad Viton valve seals
- Uses 2.020" & 1.600" Oversize valves
- ~64cc. CNC machined combustion chambers
- Requires special intake manifolds & headers
- Head can be milled down to 31cc for ultra-high-compression engines!
- Machined for 1.830" valvespring height with .375" tip height 4.910" long valves

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Just to throw out a question... in this day and age how worth it is it to do this sorta thing? Like, I know the Vulva head is a lot better than the 2.3T SOHC thingie, and it's cool that it's possible, but it just seems like for the work there's better options these days. Junkyard (or car-part.com) find an 06-15 MX-5 6-speed (closer ratios than ye olde T5 too) a Ford Fusion 2.5L Duratec thingie, slap an MX-5 intake manifold and some cable throttle body and boom, done, for around a thousand bucks, and if the engine breaks just get a new one out of a boneyard. Hell, throw fixed cam gears at it to make engine management really simple. I gotta imagine there's better support for Duratec I4 bits than B234F/Lima bits in this country too.

I've got a fancy carb/intake manifold and long equal length headers sitting over there for a 2.3 Lima. It's seriously about to go into the dumpster if someone wants to pay to ship it to themselves. Good Group 2 starter setup.

---

Grant Hughes

i have thought about the 2.3 or 2.5 duratec as an option too even the volvo 2.5 i5 just for giggles.
high points to the I4 they came in a rwd stock, i'm not sure the volvo i5 will work in a rwd.

i am just wondering what the overall cost of the volvo head conversion is v the esslinger options. like everything else there are advantages and disadvantages to both. time and money to make one work over the other.

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Quote
NoCoast
I've got a fancy carb/intake manifold and long equal length headers sitting over there for a 2.3 Lima. It's seriously about to go into the dumpster if someone wants to pay to ship it to themselves. Good Group 2 starter setup.

What manifold? What headers? For ordinary all iron Lima? I'll pay shipping if its anything worth having--I'll make it a loaner set up until the Revolution comes and we sieze power and ditch the mor-ronic no turbos for noobz rule.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

PM me.

Lemons car needs more carbs and cam and less snails.

---

Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Quote
fiasco
PM me.

Lemons car needs more carbs and cam and less snails.

Oh yeah? Foist dibs..

And what the fuck is this cunt Spalinger going on about? Ever met the moron?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2016 01:26PM by john vanlandingham.