MattP Matt Pullen Senior Moderator Location: Calgary Join Date: 10/22/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 282 Rally Car: 2002 Ford StRanger |
John,
I know that I don't need 300+ I am looking at 200-220hp. A MK3 lsd is as rare as an honest politician in these parts, so to get one from the US is about $600 cdn plus shipping and a gear set at $250 cdn so all of a sudden I am at the roughly same cost as a 7.5" with LSD from the UK. A WC T5 is in the $5-600 range here with a gear set an extra cost. My T9 will be fine with what it has until it isn't, what I may do though is put a hydraulic release bearing in it. I will change the pedal box as the both the master cylinder and brake booster are shot so i might as well put in an adjustable pedal box at the same time and get rid of the clutch cable and quadrant setup. I am well aware of the idiots back in Blighty I've been talking to some of them. I still have a number of contacts in the rally family back there so I have been able to find some bits that need to be changed due to old age. To be honest if I am going to change them for the cost of direct replacement parts here I might as well pay a little more and get the competition parts sent from the UK. For instance 2 "good quality" track rod ends here are $100 delivered, 2 spherical tre's from the UK $125 delivered. 2 good TCA's $190 delivered here 2 adjustable TCA's $220 delivered from the UK. I can go on. Yes, it's a Ranger. Xr4Ti, it is rwd and was made in Germany. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Then just don't touch the motor...just the Cossie turbine housing and "Big VAM and P8 (or whatever) ECU from T-bird...a 2wd Intercooler and 3" all the way..Done. 205 bhp and 235 ft/lbs
OK I'll find you one like I've found them for about 40 other guys.. Hell I found Matt Watson a free complete diff right in town---Here's one in town in TODAY's Kajijii..Open but so what. MK3 Supra open diff
I have plenty of 4.3 ratios...Postage haint that much...
If turbo, then you don't need 9or want) close ratio.. You can not just survive but be perfectly happy with the right stock T5.
Yes, till the go they're OK. First is a little short once you have a 4.3 or 4.37 diff but the rest of the gears are fine..OIL! is the key.
So, you want to pay hundreds of Squids? Or get one that you assemble that's done and on the shelf.. A Direct copy of part number this: Then mod the pedal like this and be done? Zap on a plate on the firewall (after filling the big hole and discing it flat) . Well you hain't gonna out-Google me.. First... Direct interchange is Ford Foucs Tie rod end..Only difference is the nut in a M10x 1 nyloc instead of the annoying castellated with the tiny cotter. Thread on the TRE is M14 x 2 So if for some reason you wanted to go a spherical bearing TRE for some unfathomable reason http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-related and you just find female M14x 2 rod end..Not even $10... (but ??length, no boot, no tapered thang to poke into the knuckle, s why reinvent the wheel when the Focus one works. You should also note that Volvo 240s with the ZF racks inner socket assembly (the inner and tie rod) have the same M12 x 1.5 thread as Ford's ZF rack and there is a range of lengths...which on the outer end just happen to be M14 x 2, just what we need..
Howdya know they're good? I do business in China and there is a shocking amount of things made in China now that I see in Europe including GB. Lots of the stuff for MkI and MkII Escorts. LOTS of universal things like oil coolers, handbrake assemblies, calipers..May be good..The Chinese will make whatever you ask them to make... The problem is the non-replaceable ball joint.. The adjustability part is easy (look how they're made. The just hack up standard arms and weld an adjuster and thread a rod end in..They don't even bother to make the spacers for the rod end worth a gawddam.) Be a real pisser to spend $220 for something that develops slop in the ball joint in 2 events. Or bend them like one real ex-spurt did first time out. Call that guy with the Kejijii ad and grab that diff..$100 local.. I have the rest. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/24/2016 03:28PM by john vanlandingham. |
Vincent Gagnon The same thing that I just wrote Mega Moderator Location: Golden, BC Join Date: 03/12/2016 Age: Settling Down Posts: 157 Rally Car: Volvo 240 |
1986 Carrier Assembly Toyota Supra 7M-GE,4.30 RATIO,LOCKING,AT Grove Auto & Truck Parts - No US Shipping Can-AB(Spruce-Grove) Request_Quote 1-780-962-9600 / 1-800-256-1655 Request_Insurance_Quote Ask for work. If they don't give you work, ask for bread. If they do not give you work or bread, then take bread. - Emma Goldman |
Eric Ewert Eric Ewert Ultra Moderator Location: Calgary, Ab Join Date: 05/13/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 366 Rally Car: volvo 240 |
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MattP Matt Pullen Senior Moderator Location: Calgary Join Date: 10/22/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 282 Rally Car: 2002 Ford StRanger |
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MattP Matt Pullen Senior Moderator Location: Calgary Join Date: 10/22/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 282 Rally Car: 2002 Ford StRanger |
The XR has just had it's first Jenny Craig weigh in, courtesy of the crap taken to the city dump. It has shed 265 lbs just in seats carpet and all the easy to get to unnecessary stuff.
This doesn't include all the sound deadening and the extra metal from the sunroof track, electric window mechanisms, all the good glass, heater core and the redundant AC gubbins. Hoping to get rid of more than 500 when all said and done. Yes, it's a Ranger. Xr4Ti, it is rwd and was made in Germany. |
dunhamr1 Ryan Dunham Mod Moderator Location: Hurst, TX Join Date: 09/17/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 158 Rally Car: 1989 Merkur XR4Ti |
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MattP Matt Pullen Senior Moderator Location: Calgary Join Date: 10/22/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 282 Rally Car: 2002 Ford StRanger |
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dunhamr1 Ryan Dunham Mod Moderator Location: Hurst, TX Join Date: 09/17/2015 Age: Settling Down Posts: 158 Rally Car: 1989 Merkur XR4Ti |
Cheers! That'll do it. Just heard lots of horror stories of rallying when the window fogs and smacking trees (seen video too). Had a couple of times where we were glad to have the heater to keep the window clear.
More of a PSA to anyone​ reading than to you directly, the micro heaters put OUT, and are much smaller and lighter than the stock one. |
The sooner you can ditch the OEM blower the better. Last I checked there were no rebuild kits and finding a "good one" is near impossible.
The Summit brand universal heater is WAY more than adequate. I'm curious about he little ones with a PC fan on them. Keep up the good work! |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
That's why you do what you do to pay the rent. Your horison is too limited and you don't even know it... This took less than 3 minutes to find: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSENS-Cabin-Heater-Fan-Blower-OE-Quality-87071-/122212555939?hash=item1c746f9ca3:g:aEUAAOSwXeJYHRVL NISSENS Cabin Heater Fan Blower OE Quality - 87071 New, +£27.71 postage £66.96 Item Description Interior Blower Vehicle Equipment: for vehicles with air conditioning Number of Poles: 2 Operating voltage [V]: 12 Diameter [mm]: 105 Seals/fittings included: NO Fitments: FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.4 CFi FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.4 EFi FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.6 EFi FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.6 G FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.8 D FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.8 EFi FORD ORION III (EA) (90-) 1.8 i 16V FORD SIERRA (CD) (83-) 1.3 FORD SIERRA (CD) (83-) 1.6 FORD SIERRA (CD) (83-) 1.8 FORD SIERRA (CD) (83-) 2.0 FORD SIERRA (CD) (83-) 2.8 XR4i FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 1.4 FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 1.6 FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 1.8 FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 2.0 FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 2.0 Cosworth FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 2.0 i TWIN CAM FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 2.0 TWIN CAM FORD SIERRA (DD) (87-) 2.9 EFI V6 FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.4 FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.6 FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.6 D FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.6 i FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.6 XR3i FORD ESCORT IV (DA) (86-) 1.8 D FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.4 CFi FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.4 EFi FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.6 EFi FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.6 G FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.8 D FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.8 EFi FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.8 i 16V FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 1.8 TD FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 2.0 COSWORTH FORD ESCORT V - VI (EA) (90-) 2.0 i 16V FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 1.4 EFi FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 1.6 EFi FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 1.8 D FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 1.8 EFi FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 1.8 TD FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 2.0 COSWORTH FORD ESCORT VII (FA) (95-) 2.0 EFi FORD GRANADA (CE) (85-) 2.0 FORD GRANADA (CE) (85-) 2.0 i FORD GRANADA (CE) (85-) 2.0 i TWIN CAM FORD GRANADA (CE) (85-) 2.4 i FORD GRANADA (CE) (85-) 2.9 EFI V6 Replaces following reference(s): FORD: 1015486 FORD: 1644040 FORD: 95AG18565BA FORD: 6684269 FORD: 7112176 VALEO: 715011 AKS DASIS: 098003N VEMO: V25031619 Brand: Nissens Part Number: 87071 That is why you should not be advising people on things beyond your limitations. Certainly this would be better and ultimately cheaper than buying some whatever thing, fucking around fitting it and then like so many brilliant ideas, finding its inadequate... Unless of course you like buying some whatever thing, fucking around fitting it and then like so many brilliant ideas, finding its inadequate...I can't tell. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Yeah a good deal. You missed the part about how lousy your knowledge about things is and your poor searching skills. And that means maybe you should tone down your statements about what others should do and fill in more of WHY you do the things you do.. Something more fleshed out like "Well since we wanted to put in a latest verson Direct Injection Duratec thing and the head has a buncha shit hanging off the back we had to ditch the stock blower assembly...so we had to search for something different" Then those who are NOT doing that engine are NOT led to believe that there is a problem with just an ordinary US AC model or the Euro non-AC blower... Hell, this guy Matt is English and he could easily avoid custom fab and have a friend back home take a chance on a second hand blower for 10-15 Squids--a friend could just jumper a used one and listen before sending. And avoid wasting time and effort on something that may not work worth a damn. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
MattP Matt Pullen Senior Moderator Location: Calgary Join Date: 10/22/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 282 Rally Car: 2002 Ford StRanger |
But then again nobody bothered to inquire as to the reason why I am putting one in and jumped to an erroneous conclusion.
I want to have as little crap to go wrong on the car as possible, having heater controls operated by vac lines are crap, stupid slider controls that have seized due to moisture, noisy blower motor and a crapped out blower motor resistor are a few things found so far. Now for $150 of my monies I can get a really simple water core with a low power consumption fan attached that will blow warm air, far far far less than trying to find all of the above pieces from the scrap yards of Europe and then hope and pray that they all work as intended and blow warm air. As for the heated screen, only 100 loonies more than a regular screen (which I have to replace due to extensive cracks).... but with the added benefit of flick-a-switch demist which after a water splash or an early start in the Rocky Mountains is a fantastic feature. Along the same lines, I am getting rid of the stock ECU and engine bay harness and going with a Megasquirt based ECM with wide band sensor and new loom. A previous owner has been all Happy Gilmore with wire cutters and butt splices in there, and the last owner got rid of the car due to an intermittent electrical fault in the engine bay, go figure. It will also remove the small vam, egr, knock sensor etc and even more unnecessary crap to go wrong in the engine bay. And it will look nicer..... The same principle has been taken with the electric windows and central locking, I don't need it nor want it, so the Lexan is in its place. Less to go wrong makes me happy, also the added weight saving of the components and the associated wiring is a bonus. I mean I have even taken the radio out of this one, does this mean I am taking this build a little more seriously than the Ranger?? Yes it will have an LSD, no it won't be from a Supra, but from a company that still exists and continues to make them, oh and way way less custom fab involved to make it work. In fact no fabrication at all. Not going to swap over the rear brakes to disc just yet, I'll see how it is without for a while. Not going to shove an hydraulic handbrake in right away either as we only have a couple of corners in western Canada that might need it. Now for the most controversial bit, I'm not going to be using any suspension made in North America....I know, I know crazy huh. It will be from Europe and a well trusted and experienced name in rally suspension (40 years is experienced right?). And for only about $1000 more that anything manufactured here I think it makes good sense. Still way less than DMS, MCA or Proflex. Now all of the above and more is what I am doing to my build of an XR4ti, it won't be what Uncle Fred, cousin Joe or Auntie Shaniqua in Springfield MO are doing with their builds. And frankly I don't really care, they are building their cars to what they want. I have been building rally and race cars off and on for the last 30 years and have a bit of knowledge, so let's try and keep the petty comments and derision of others to a minimum. Serious questions and comments are of course welcome by all and sundry, hell even a laugh at my expense is expected. Yes, it's a Ranger. Xr4Ti, it is rwd and was made in Germany. |
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