Another XR4T build

Quote
deaner
I guess I'm maybe not reading this right? Are you saying going from the turbo to the DS of the IC and then from the PS of the IC to the throttle body?

Yes, that's what I meant, it's confusing I know.

JVL's method works and is proven, it's much less of a 90 off of the turbo than I was imagining, probably because most folks don't clock the compressor out like he did in those photos there.

You'd still have to relocate the alternator to use the 90 upper, it's a straight shot for the 2wd Cossie IC, as shown in John's photos.

Quote
dunhamr1

Quote
deaner
I guess I'm maybe not reading this right? Are you saying going from the turbo to the DS of the IC and then from the PS of the IC to the throttle body?

Yes, that's what I meant, it's confusing I know.

JVL's method works and is proven, it's much less of a 90 off of the turbo than I was imagining, probably because most folks don't clock the compressor out like he did in those photos there.

You'd still have to relocate the alternator to use the 90 upper, it's a straight shot for the 2wd Cossie IC, as shown in John's photos.

Gotcha. I wouldn't get hung up about the one 90 off the turbo. The way you're describing makes my eyeballs go roundy round haha. Lots and lots of tubing run in places it doesn't need to be run in. But so does people running a front mount with the stock upper. Soooo much unnecessary plumbing. Out of curiousity, why exactly were you kicking around doing it that way?

Quote
deaner

Quote
dunhamr1

Quote
deaner
I guess I'm maybe not reading this right? Are you saying going from the turbo to the DS of the IC and then from the PS of the IC to the throttle body?

Yes, that's what I meant, it's confusing I know.

JVL's method works and is proven, it's much less of a 90 off of the turbo than I was imagining, probably because most folks don't clock the compressor out like he did in those photos there.

You'd still have to relocate the alternator to use the 90 upper, it's a straight shot for the 2wd Cossie IC, as shown in John's photos.

Gotcha. I wouldn't get hung up about the one 90 off the turbo. The way you're describing makes my eyeballs go roundy round haha. Lots and lots of tubing run in places it doesn't need to be run in. But so does people running a front mount with the stock upper. Soooo much unnecessary plumbing. Out of curiousity, why exactly were you kicking around doing it that way?

Cause maybe I hadn't sent him those piccies showing how easy that is that way..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Cause maybe I hadn't sent him those piccies showing how easy that is that way..

True.. though I knew that it wasn't too bad.

Quote
deaner

Gotcha. I wouldn't get hung up about the one 90 off the turbo. The way you're describing makes my eyeballs go roundy round haha. Lots and lots of tubing run in places it doesn't need to be run in. But so does people running a front mount with the stock upper. Soooo much unnecessary plumbing. Out of curiousity, why exactly were you kicking around doing it that way?

Turns. Making air go around corners sharply just seems bad, you could keep the stock upper and have something that didn't have sharp turns.

BUT it is very complicated, and also unnecessary. Mostly was trying to avoid ways to have to use a rotated upper (I'm a cheap bastid).

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
deaner

Quote
Robert Culbertson
Dave Clark the lesser has a 2wd cossie style intercooler that he's not using. Let me know if you want it. It's what they sold prior to the kit you bought.

It's this one: https://imagecdn2.panjo.com/images/facebook//c7b36ec0-69ad-4549-b865-2bcc9e9e6bb42.jpg

Thanks! I may be interested if I can't get my hands on a genuine piece sooner than later. You know what he'd want for it? I actually got word today from Mike @ Merkur Depot that his old style rep coolers were less efficient than the genuine 2wd ICs. I'm not going to be making heaps of power by any means but I'd like to get the best I can afford if something's gotta be replaced ya know?

No John, he definitely needs this one:
Be careful..Remember the guy on the Mare-koooor forum who was making no-problem boost before, went to some set up like that, made maybe 5-6 psi, then with a helpful loan of a OEM 2wd made boost same as before..Single element change, the best comparison..
Careful..

Here's one at 20 squids
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sierra-2wd-cosworth-intercooler-/182635699123?hash=item2a85ef9bb3:g:WeMAAOSw8d5ZQvT-

Another at 45 squids or best offer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sierra-cosworth-2wd-Intercooler-/142406779307?hash=item21281b01ab:g:lS4AAOSwTM5Y6fuZ

Best Offer sounds good..

No john, he definitely needs this one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Merkur-XR4Ti-Intercooler-Inter-Cooler-NEW-RARE-PART-/8073825653

I'm joking in case anyone has no sense of humor.

I had a top mount mekur depot intercooler or one similar to it. It had a 90 degree bend on the output so you could run it over the valve cover to a stock intake. I cut it off and ran it to a 90 degree rotated intake. This is going from memory but at one point I was measuring the intake temps pre intercooler and post intercooler. It was pretty much spot on at 70% efficient except for reaaaallllllyyyy long 5th gear pulls. It would heat soak and dip down into the 60% efficiency. As soon as you let off it would dissipate the heat and go back to 70%. I was happy with that. I also had hood louvers and a big vent hole in the hood that I experimented with. I ran at least 2 rallies at 18 psi (not a stock ecu) and never detonated to the point of piston damage at the top of the piston. I haven't looked at the ring grooves yet. My skid plate helped funnel air to the radiator, intercooler, and oil cooler. I couldn't do 18psi without an oil cooler. I also paid attention to things like making sure the gap between the hood and the windshield were blocked so you don't get high pressure slowing the air going through the coolant system and yada yada......

I currently have a sierra 2wd intercooler and am sure it does a better job.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2017 06:55AM by MarkHille.

Shoot! That $1000 piece is what I've been needing! May as well order two of em, because spares....

Nabbed a 2wd cosworth IC last night. Hopefully it makes its way to me in the next week. Shrouding and vents are def on the list once I get this thing together and running "right."

Sweet Jesus has it been hot lately! Hard to find motivation when my garage feels like a sauna. Anyhow, got a couple of things done. Rebuilt the turbo today. That was way easier than I was expecting it to be. I am knocking on wood right now FYI, haven't run it yet so there's still plenty of potential for disaster haha. I also yanked the NPR intercooler out and reinstalled the rad.
After that was done I went about deleting the turbo coolant lines and oil cooler with its lines, as well as the heater core plumbing for the time being. Reason for pulling the heater core stuff is the nipples on the heater core(both cars actually...) are broken. I'm planning on getting a heater box from summit so I'll deal with plumbing that all back in this fall. Shouldn't be too much of hassle to add the tubes back in and rig up a valve. Looks kinda weird right now but so be it. It should work just fine.
I was waiting on wiring in the coolant temp sender until I got around to installing an oil cooler, being as the intake had to come off anyhow. So got working on that as well. Pulled the intake manifold and got the sensor installed and the wiring run to where it needs to be. After that the sandwhich plate was next. It's in and I have a mental note of where the lines will go(along the driver side framerail and to the front of the car.) After looking at it for 20 minutes or so, I'm actually thinking I'm going to rotate the plate so the fittings point down and the lines run under the motormount and over the steering rack. Pretty much right where the clutch cable loops through. I figure once the intake manifold is bolted on, getting to those fittings is going to be next to impossible. I'll sleep on it but I'm about certain I'm going to change it. Maybe someone has a better thought?

That's where it's at now. Just need to run oil cooler hoses to the front and mount the cooler in front of the rad. That cosworth intercooler is on track to be here on Tuesday so that'll go in along with a ported and rotated 120* upper intake. Then hopefully I'll be done with motor crap for a bit and can drive this turd some! Aaaaaaand then the megasquirt will go in haha. Hopefully with a cossie turbine housing and 3" exhaust as well!

So I decided to rotate the sandwhich plate for the oil cooler down. Didn't even think about the extra thickness of the plate effecting the oil filter haha. Hits the steering shaft so I'm going to hit up the parts house tomorrow and figure out a shorter filter. I tinkered with the factory elbow/relocated setup a little bit to see if I could make something work but figured I'd need a shorter filter anyhow as it's the size of a football and hits everything lol. The lines have been measured out and I've got one done up. Need to let the other one cook in the sun for a bit tomorrow before I stuff the pushlock fittings in. The oil cooler is just ziptied for the time being. I've ordered up a set of aftermarket fans and a shroud for a Miata(pretty damn close in dimensions!) and will have to make up some brackets. At the same time I'll mount up the oil cooler and some better lower mounts for the cossie intercooler that showed up today.

Intercooler showed up today! With the oil cooler stuff "done" and routed, I was able to throw the intake manifold back on. During which, I mocked up the rotated upper and the IC plumbing that came with the car. Pretty close! Little bit of massaging with the tubing and it should be good. I had a "doh" moment when I realized that with adding the rotated upper, I was going to have to extend some wiring to reach the throttle body haha. This setup came out of the green car and the harness in that one is already done and wired up for megasquirt. I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try and drive it as is and add the upper intake, IC and megasquirt/harness later this summer after I get some miles one it. Anywho, that's where it sits. Progress!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2017 11:15PM by deaner.

If the lima uses a 3/4-16 thread on the filter, Volvo 240 filters are pretty short and fat and use the "ford" thread.

Quote
Robert Culbertson
If the lima uses a 3/4-16 thread on the filter, Volvo 240 filters are pretty short and fat and use the "ford" thread.

Good call. My heeps got an oil filter from a Volvo now. Parts guy asked me what year 240 and I told him "dealers choice, pick one" haha.

Holy cow it's been awhile since I updated this thing..... after getting the oil cooler and shit sorted, I figured out a decent cooking fan solution, albeit not as cheap as something from the bone yard.

Did some measuring and researching and found out that miata radiators were damned near the same size as this MD aluminum piece. Said EFF it and ordered a miata dual fan setup from mishimoto. I litereally drilled two holes and bent the mounting tabs on the fan to make it a bolt on affair. Couldn't have gone any easier as far as mounting. I haven't wired it in yet as I was just in the process of getting the thing to run right.
Buttoned the car up and poured coolant in. During warm up I'd noticed the coolant resivoir had sprung a leak. It was at that moment I'd become "over" this car for awhile. Seemed like one dumb thing after another and with being as busy as I was last summer, I didn't give a shit. I was done. Car sat parked until a few weeks ago after I'd finished some work this past 6 months on both my daily driver Audi as well as my, new as of last year family adventure rig, a Cummins powered Toyota Land Cruiser.

These stupid coolant resivoirs are just time bombs. The idea of buying a used one just to replace it next year seemed almost as bad as spending $200+ on some fancy aluminum part as well. Solution? VW passat resivoir. It's just hanging out in there with no mounts yet because it needs to occupy some of the space the VAM takes up. Plan was to get it together and running and then switch to the megasquirt I have, later this month.

I'm sick of typing and I need to take a shower. Where we're at now.....

Battery has been relocated behind the pass seat.
3" DP on its way after some trading for a bunch of stock manifolds I have.
120* has to go in because I traded off the factory upper lol.
FMIC has to go in. Going with NPR for now.
TPS/idle valve wiring has to be extended along with repurposing the knock sensor wiring for IAT duties.
Vacuum manifold on its way to clean up some of this ish.


Maybe some pictures tomorrow. I'm tired.

The summer motorsport bug has has bitten hard and I've got some pretty hardcore motivation going to get this thing together to hit some some drift events this spring/summer as well as a couple of local hill climbs.

120* intake and NPR intercooler are mounted and wiring extended to reach. Waiting on a 3' section of IC hose to cut up so I can finish off the last two connections and then that parts done. The little vacuum tree is busted to shit so an eBay vacuum manifold was ordered and should be here today. Should have that installed tonight and all vacuum lines needed will be run between the vacuum manifold and the intake manifold. Then it's add coolant and make fire.

Second stage..... front DIY coilovers and rear springs are on order as of last night. Starting with 350# fronts and 650# rears on koni adjustables all the way around. I've noticed the steering angle on these cars is horrendous which I'll need to sort as well. I've got the idea to mill the knuckle flat, where the TRE bolts through and then drill the hole more inbound, finished off with rose joints to get some more lock. For now I'm just going to get some more miles on the car while I wait for parts to show up...

April to do....
Swap rear beam and bushings from roller chassis to driving chassis. They're all new poly and whatnot. Diff will be welded as well.
Build coilovers and get installed.
Plumb hydro brake.
Mod knuckles.
Rear disk parts will be ordered in the next couple of weeks so I can convert to Focus stuff.
Possibly rebuild PS rack.
Find cheap bucket seat and order a steering wheel hub.
Oh, tires. Workijng okn locating lots of tires lol.

Quote
deaner
The summer motorsport bug has has bitten hard and I've got some pretty hardcore motivation going to get this thing together to hit some some drift events this spring/summer as well as a couple of local hill climbs.

120* intake and NPR intercooler are mounted and wiring extended to reach. Waiting on a 3' section of IC hose to cut up so I can finish off the last two connections and then that parts done. The little vacuum tree is busted to shit so an eBay vacuum manifold was ordered and should be here today. Should have that installed tonight and all vacuum lines needed will be run between the vacuum manifold and the intake manifold. Then it's add coolant and make fire.

Second stage..... front DIY coilovers and rear springs are on order as of last night. Starting with 350# fronts and 650# rears on koni adjustables all the way around. I've noticed the steering angle on these cars is horrendous which I'll need to sort as well. I've got the idea to mill the knuckle flat, where the TRE bolts through and then drill the hole more inbound, finished off with rose joints to get some more lock. For now I'm just going to get some more miles on the car while I wait for parts to show up...

April to do....
Swap rear beam and bushings from roller chassis to driving chassis. They're all new poly and whatnot. Diff will be welded as well.
Build coilovers and get installed.
Plumb hydro brake.
Mod knuckles.
Rear disk parts will be ordered in the next couple of weeks so I can convert to Focus stuff.
Possibly rebuild PS rack.
Find cheap bucket seat and order a steering wheel hub.
Oh, tires. Workijng okn locating lots of tires lol.

Thought you were making a rally car?
What dampers are those springs mated to?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham


Thought you were making a rally car?
What dampers are those springs mated to?

Still the end game. I'd rather go get some seat time in the car than have it sit while it gets built over the next year. New Koni Adjustables that came on one of the cars I got.

Quote
deaner

Quote
john vanlandingham


Thought you were making a rally car?
What dampers are those springs mated to?

Still the end game. I'd rather go get some seat time in the car than have it sit while it gets built over the next year. New Koni Adjustables that came on one of the cars I got.

Where did you come up with those ridiculously overboard spring rates? Some faggot otter-crossers?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.