Engine pulling and Camshaft spec

I couldn't sleep, so out to the garage I went.

#3 cap is still stuck, I left the bolts in (but undone) so I could get some "wiggle leverage", but still couldn't get it. I tried tapping with the rubber part of a hammer handle, still didn't work. The cap moves along the top part of the bearing but is stuck at the block. I've tried wrapping the cap in towel and grabing it with vise grips, that didn't work either. Is there a miracle solution ?

Here are the pics of the bottom end, 1, and 2.

Here are the pics of 4, 5, and the 4 caps/bearings [1 at the top, 2, 4, 5]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2006 04:41AM by Morten.

Close-ups of bearings :

1 and 2 then 4 and 5.

I would just pad both sides of the stuck cap with towels and then whack sideways at it with a deadblow hammer. But I am not a professional.

And seriously, what colour is that coolant in real life? We don't have brown coolant at crappy tire here, but perhaps it's a BC thing...

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I couldn't sleep, so out to the garage I went.
Good.
>
> #3 cap is still stuck, I left the bolts in (but
> undone) so I could get some "wiggle leverage", but
> still couldn't get it. I tried tapping with the
> rubber part of a hammer handle, still didn't work.
> The cap moves along the top part of the bearing
> but is stuck at the block. I've tried wrapping the
> cap in towel and grabing it with vise grips, that
> didn't work either. Is there a miracle solution ?

Pull the bolts up slightly so they are all in the cap.
Now whack on the bolt, and your finger, SIDEWAYS, or 'east-west'.Whack near the top of the bolt, itll loosen. its the thrust bearing, it controls and absorbs force on the nort-south axis of the crank (like when you step on the clutch) so its pretty tight between the flanks.
>
> Here are the pics of the bottom end, 1, and 2.

The lower bearing are the ones that see stress on mains and while they aren't beautiful, there's no indication of serious problems.
Now on the rods, its the top bearing shell that sees the load, but when they fail there is ALWAYS NOISE, as I said before, and with any even half serious problems lubruication related, there is always discoloration.
I don't see any discoloration yet.

>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks John - east to west and it came right out

I've got the nuts off the rod "caps"(?), now do I just lift the crank out to remove the "caps" from the rods ?

The crank is out and all the bearings exposed.

The rod bearing on #1 is "mashed" and after I removed the crank it looks like there is a couple of drops of water in the "journal" is this the right term ?

More pics :

1 more :

looks grim. now you'll need to push out the pistons, dismount the pistons, and put the caps back on and snug the nuts pretty good so somebody can mike the big end ID.
if they've gotten pounded oval, and that one looks like it might have been then you have to rebuild the big ends, not very pricey.

Next you better figure out why there's some starvation going on.

I repeat: anytime I see extra gee-gaws such as the added Accu-sump thing (which is piggybacked on the oil cooler stuff) I see if I can remove the added on stuff from the equation when trying to finger out why things popped: back to basics essentially.
Remember, Paul ran this thing hard for 4-5 seasons without problems.

Find the price of a new oil pump. See if you can find an exploded view of the pump, cause you want to see if you can add a washer under the relief valve spring to shim it up and up the pressue the pump makes.

How high have you been revving this to?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> looks grim. now you'll need to push out the
> pistons, dismount the pistons, and put the caps
> back on and snug the nuts pretty good so somebody
> can mike the big end ID.
> if they've gotten pounded oval, and that one looks
> like it might have been then you have to rebuild
> the big ends, not very pricey.

The "big end"... So I bolt the caps back into the block, and the created "circle" is called the big end ? Or is the big end refering to the rod ?

Can I remove all the bearings from the block, rods, etc... ?

So I'll need new bearing for the rods and crank ?

> Next you better figure out why there's some
> starvation going on.
>
> I repeat: anytime I see extra gee-gaws such as the
> added Accu-sump thing (which is piggybacked on the
> oil cooler stuff) I see if I can remove the added
> on stuff from the equation when trying to finger
> out why things popped: back to basics
> essentially.

Is it possible that the accusump was put in to reduce/eliminate oil starvation, remember I had it shut off ever since I've been running the car. But I'd be better off capping the inlet and removing it ?

> Remember, Paul ran this thing hard for 4-5 seasons
> without problems.
>
> Find the price of a new oil pump. See if you can
> find an exploded view of the pump, cause you want
> to see if you can add a washer under the relief
> valve spring to shim it up and up the pressue the
> pump makes.

I talked to a guy this morning that has a machine shop, that I found through a referal from a pavement racer I know through my friends borther in law... oh never mind, a friend of a friend. I asked him about after market pumps and he said I'd be better off with a stock one with a washer under the spring.
>
> How high have you been revving this to?

I have a mallory hyfire ignition that has the rev limiter set to 7500. It turns out that i had been under reving the motor because up until 2 weeks ago, I was using the 74' stock tach (which had a bouncy needle). Then when I did the ball joints I put in an autometer tach that runs off the mallory, but did notice that the needle would jump now and then. Anyways after the tach went in it hasn't gone over 6500, and was spinning at 5000 when the motor started to have difficulties.

Never having bought a set of bearings before... are some better than others ?
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2006 03:39PM by Morten.

The accusump's purpose is to prevent low oil pressure moments when oil slushes and the pickup doesn't get oil. If this is a problem with this engine that could be why it was put in. Isn't there something weird about the oil pan? Not baffled maybe to prevent oil sloshing?

---

Grant Hughes

The pan is a fabbed one for the car, from what I can tell.

It is baffled.

I found a cam guy that is within 80 miles of me and he said the most that I can get reliably out of a reground G54 cam is :

108 lobe seperation
Intake - 280 duration and 445 lift
Exhaust - 292 duration and 454 lift

http://www.coltcams.com/

Here are the pics of the pan :

When we pulled the pistons out, the circlip on #1 was lose and not snapped in place on the wrist pin. I haven't removed the removed the wrist pins from the pistons to see if there was a failure in the circlip groove.

But will keep you posted as it comes apart.

Lose circlip :