Aluminum?

Ok - I really don't know the first damn thing about aluminum - and I'm hoping someone can educate me in what I should be using;
a) For skidplate material
b) For general fabbing, like brackets and such

Also, how thick can I weld with a Lincoln SP 175 (teflon liner, etc.., its a 230v 130amp)

Here's what I've found on the rumornet:

Non-Heat Treatable (Common) Alloys

1100-0 - Commercially pure aluminum. Excellent corrosion resistance, workability and weldability; high thermal conductivity. Uses include deep drawing, spinning, sheet metal work, decorative applications, air ducts, etc.

3003-0-H14 - The most widely used general purpose alloy. 3003 is stronger than 1100 but still readily formable. Excellent resistance to chemicals and weathering.

5005-H32 or H34 - Excellent workability, weldability, and corrosion resistance. 5005 is typically specified for applications where anodizing is required. Anodized coating is clear and lighter than 3003.

5052-H34 - A versatile alloy for applications requiring greater strength. Readily formed, very good corrosion resistance in marine applications.

Heat Treatable (Strong) Alloys

6061-T4 or T6 - High strength allow provides good formability, weldability, and corrosion resistance. May be difficult to perforate or bend.

6063-T6 - Highly corrosion resistant with good formability. Softer than 6061-T6 and easier to bend. Finish is pleasing and is the most suitable for anodizing.

I'm thinking 6061-T4 for the crash plate? and 5005 for bracketry?

6061-T6 is what I'd use, unless something else just falls off a truck.

If you can weld alum., first time out, your're the MAN!!!!!!

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Ted Mendham
www.rensport.net

We shall see - it took some practice w/steel - and could probably use more - but w/a new welderator, its soooooo mucho simplistico...

As fer 6061-T6 - I'm assuming you mean for the skid plate - or are you saying for anything on the car?

Grazie!

Practice with some scraps first. You'll need straight argon gas. Aluminum wire is very soft so keep your mig gun cable as straight as possible. The secret to migging aluminum with a small welder is preheating the weld areas with a torch then making your weld while the pieces are still hot. You'll need to weld forehand as well. Backhand won't preclean the joint. Keep joints extra clean to start with. Have fun.
JT

Yeah, for skidplate.

I got all excited when I got a nice piece of flat 5/16 sheet at the local recyclers for cheap. It was blanchard ground on both sides. I tried to bend it in a brake and it broke in half along a jagged edge! It was a cast piece of die plate or machine plate for a jig or something. Cast sucks!

There is a huge variety of aluminum out there.

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Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

So the lesson learned is to buy from your local metal supplier and specify what you want - I make this assumption in that if a guy w/your building experience can't tell the difference - I'm doomed!

I remeber a thread in a far land long, long ago indicating that yes 5/16 is the best thickness for skid plate aluminum - all in favor say AYE...

vbares Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So the lesson learned is to buy from your local
> metal supplier and specify what you want - I make
> this assumption in that if a guy w/your building
> experience can't tell the difference - I'm
> doomed!
>
> I remeber a thread in a far land long, long ago
> indicating that yes 5/16 is the best thickness for
> skid plate aluminum - all in favor say AYE...

I say 1/4 with reinforcing "wear bars" made of 3/8 x 1 bars running N/S under the palte
The Plate is a "sump guard" to prevent rocks and shit from putting holes in the sump and damaging belts and shit.
Not "armor".

Design it right, support it in the middle and 1/4 is fine.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Don't know about prices, but It's kinda interesting. I'm not sure if the 6 and 7 series of aluminums were being alloyed yet either. Ford used "duraluminum" which is bascially the 20XX series of alloys. Its mixed with copper and manganese and magnesium. <<wiki ftw>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin <<Wiki ftw>>

But yeah. Just some extra info.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

I've got the Lincoln SP-175PLUS welder also. Haven't got the aluminum feeding kit yet, but maybe someday, especially since it's only like 70 bucks or so. I'll be interested to see how your experience is with it. Personally, I love this welder, but I haven't really got to play with any gigantoid ones, or a TIG setup either. Does great for exhausts, buick door hinges, solid motormounts, and other minor stuff. Soon to be affixing ears to some sooperBitchinâ„¢ suspenders, hopefully this next spring.

--sarge

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

I got a smokin deal on the unit from the local Airgas guys - they wanted to get the new model in, and let me steal it for 1/2 list, full warranty etc...however, when I was buying the sukka, I had the conversation regarding aluminum - they obviously didn't connect the dots that the spool gun don't work with that unit

Sooo, in speaking with the dude today - he agreed that the best corse of action would be to buy another gun, the alum feed kit and a 2nd bottle for pure Argonium flatulance - Prob looking at about $300 buck total, which is what the spool gun plus tank would have cost - the negative of this setup from what I've read is that, as Jim indicated, you have to keep the feed cable as straight as possible or the soft aluminum won't slide well. The positive is that switching from Alum to Steel won't be a big deal. Having only one gun, and switching the liner every time would suck.

And for the skid plate, I was planning on gusseting and re-inforcing as JVL indicated - and reports are that that work alone would cost me in the $200-300 range.

Of course TIG would be best - but a decent one of those is mucho plus denero.

I may also try to talk a neighbor into using his TIG, but I'd prefer the independence of doing it myself and learning a new skill.

5052 is a great choice for a skid plate material. It's strong, durable, and easily formed.

6061 is too difficult to straighten, costs more and offers less corrosion resistance.

I've also read that 3000 series is a good choice.

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Michael LeCompte



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2009 05:15PM by pikespeakgtx.

I guess the trade-off is, if its too difficult to straighten - its probably less prone to distortion during the battle?

Albeit - I might prefer straightening a skid plate, rather than building a new one ($$).

And yet on the other hand (now I'll need to use a foot - run plumb out of hands) if its built right (per JVL), and you've bent it that bad - then you probably have bigger problems...

6061-T6 is tough, it's not going to want to bend. The "T6" means it's hardened. I've had front skid plates (sump guards) anywhere from 3/16 to 3/8" thick. !/8" worked for the gas tank.

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Ted Mendham
www.rensport.net

Just in case you're wondering:

Street Signs up to 36" wide..... 0.080-inch thick
Street Signs over 36" wide...... 0.125-inch thick

U.S. Standard is alloy 6061-T6... or alloy 5052-H36 or H38.

Too thin for skid plates, but VERY stiff, dead flat, and hard to bend. Limited to uses like dash plates, etc.

And very cheap.... if you source it creatively.

Rich Smith

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> vbares Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > So the lesson learned is to buy from your
> local
> > metal supplier and specify what you want - I
> make
> > this assumption in that if a guy w/your
> building
> > experience can't tell the difference - I'm
> > doomed!
> >
> > I remeber a thread in a far land long, long
> ago
> > indicating that yes 5/16 is the best
> thickness for
> > skid plate aluminum - all in favor say
> AYE...
>
> I say 1/4 with reinforcing "wear bars" made of 3/8
> x 1 bars running N/S under the palte
> The Plate is a "sump guard" to prevent rocks and
> shit from putting holes in the sump and damaging
> belts and shit.
> Not "armor".
>
> Design it right, support it in the middle and 1/4
> is fine.
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca



I like this idea. I've only used 6061 in like 3/8 thick or something but it's alot of weight down there when most of the skid plate isn't protecting anything. I gotta get under my car and see where some supporting bars could go when it's not -25 outside!!!

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Gone fishing