Camber Shim Plates for Strut/Knuckle Joint

In crusing around another forum I came across an ingenious method for locking the camber slip joint found in many cars (VW) in one position and for easily adding or removing camber without a check in the field.

I'll let the pictures do the talking

Stock setup without the shims. You can see the elongated hole in the knuckle. Also note the 2 ridges that are on the strut.



Now with the shim in place



Shims in different sizes



The idea here is that the center hole position varies. When the shim is placed against the 2 ridges, it only provides a single hole for the bolt to move through = the camber adjustment is removed and locked into the fixed position. If you switch to a different shim, the degree change is known rather than guessing and measuring.

It seems like a pretty simple idea - not sure if gaining camber due to a slipping joint is an issue in rally, but figured I'd post it up.

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-Jason

its all good until you start bending stuff....I like the idea

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-Tom
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RS&SP and Ohlins use something similar to accomplish the same thing.
RS&SP have washers with 2 pins in them, the pins go into the ear and the pins/hole has various offsets.
Ohlins use a washer with a shoulder that fits into the elongated hole in the ear, again with different offsets and all.

What you end up with is a box full of various washers so you can get the camber into spec, and then you can only get the camber pretty close because of your limited options for offset. But it definitely keeps things in line over hits that would cause standard methods to move.

I remember seeing these for road racing Mustangs (like 60's Mustangs) about 20 years ago.

So, why not?


The good ones are four different "adjustments" in one, so if you need to make an adjustment you just rotate the little block 90 degrees one way or the other.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Ford Escort Mk II World Cup front cross member for rally, has the exact same thing. Only that is for where the TCA bolts to the cross member.
Quick for changing camber instead of having to adjust unilinks.

On my Golf though, I have a so called "Monroe MagiCamber" bolt. The holes in the knuckle and strut are 12 mm, but the MagiCamber is more like 10 mm. with a cam on the middle, and a 12 mm step near the head. Using the cam you can force adjustment of the knuckle, and not have to rely on tightening the bolts up über hard.

H&R do something similar: http://www.mynismo.com/images/?id=4190

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Brgrds
Brian