Omni Cage Pictures

I just picked up my Omni this weekend. Wanted to thank Dave Clark for all the work he's done one the car, all the donated parts and good ideas he's given me.. Very Happy

Explain the logic behind the door bars a-la NASCAR please.

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

Awfully sturdy lookin' rear shock towers...

The really odd thing about trying to work with Dave Clark has always been that you tell him explictly and clearly that you want something done a certain way, such as when I farmed out the Capri cage to him and handed him Sierra shock tops, and said "Bring the tubes to the tops just like the Sierras are done NOT TO THE SIDE LIKE YOU ALWAYS DO." That's pretty clear, and it wasn't, it was made clear, a point of discussion.

Naturally the tubes were brought to the side of the tower.

Then we see that he decides on this car to do just what he was told to do on the Capri.

Maybe all of us who have been trying to get Dave to do things are simply out of sequence, and we should be saying "OK on the LAST car you DID, make the cage like this....." and then the NEXT car maybe would get done as requested.

Missing a critical tube coming upwards from the base of the main hoop up TO the combined junction it seems.

And aside from the Nascar door bars, this cage looks nice.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
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is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

If the stock door bar has been removed then you need to do bars like that now in RA as I recall.

Having rolled a clark cage not too long ago I think they are very good.

D

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In the long run reality always wins.

sagsert Wrote:
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> Explain the logic behind the door bars a-la NASCAR
> please.
>
> Cheers
> M.Samli
> Phoenix AZ
> Gaylant VR4
> EVO II GSR
> STC Mouthpiece
> Instigator Extraordinaire
>
> Avatars are like underwear, change them daily.
________________________________________________________


Samli, I figured that the more space between the door bars and the driver/co-driver the better. Also seems like the force of a side impact would get distributed more evenly using the NASCAR style and not shear off. Dave agreed with these points so it happened. I'm curious of the pro and cons of both designs.

It looks a lot heavier than the usual X brace, of course the added complication of fabricating would add up. On the othe hand some scrutineer may have a problem with it's design aswell.

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

I dunno, doesn't look that complicated to me, but you'll never get me in a car with lexan windows in the doors, so I'd object to them on those grounds.

I never had a problem with Lexan windows, in my early rolls, the windows were Lexan and they never snapped or split in to shards, but I can see where you are coming from, if you will not feel safe with them around, you will not drive as fast as you really can.

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

My fear isn't them snapping, but instead how you break/move them when you need to sneak out while the car is sinking into a lake, on fire, etc. Glass I'm good at breaking.

-Patrick
(Who just finished cutting out his knee bar after much consideration...

That all really depends on the method of putting the Lexan in. We took the Lexan out with no issues for coming back down Pike's Peak last year. My only complaint with Lexan has always been the lack of rolling down the window. Which will never prevent me from using Lexan and gutting my door.

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Grant Hughes

Well I imagine, as I haven't gotten to the point of install, but on the XR I was thinking that the stock moulding would hold the top in and have some kind of release pin holding the bottom. Should be able to push the lexan out of the moulding in hurry. Or just have it drop into the door when you pull the pin. But maybe that won't stay in on the road? It holds the glass in fine, but glass doesn't flex as much.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

Scott,

One old Porsche trick is to to leave the side channel guides in the door so the glass/lexan can still slide up and down. But, gut the operator and substitute a pull-up nylon strap(s) that are affixed to the bottom (or looped under the bottom) of the glass/lexan, and then rise to exit the door at the window sill on the inside. Just leave the exit strap tail long enough to fastened it to the door with some kind of quick release below the sill. Even something like a belt buckle or velcro will work.

If you worry about guide friction or opening the window when your upside down, I suppose you could drill some finger holes near the top of the lexan or affix a second strap to the top and let it hang down. Then even when your upside down you could pull the window into the door to get it open. (Gee Wally...how much worry does a guy hafta do to save 5-pounds?)

Rich Smith



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2006 07:40PM by Rich Smith.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The really odd thing about trying to work with
> Dave Clark has always been that you tell him
> explictly and clearly that you want something
> done a certain way, such as when I farmed out the
> Capri cage to him and handed him Sierra shock
> tops, and said "Bring the tubes to the tops just
> like the Sierras are done NOT TO THE SIDE LIKE YOU
> ALWAYS DO." That's pretty clear, and it wasn't, it
> was made clear, a point of discussion.
>
> Naturally the tubes were brought to the side of
> the tower.
> >>>>


First, let me just correct a bit of John's revisionist history. The Capri cage was done long before there was any rear suspension for the car and long before John finally handed me the Sierra shock tops which I only got after multiple requests. You never asked me to bring the tubes to the top of the shock mounts when we discussed the cage design because the car had pin type shock mounts originally and of course that wouldn't have worked. Only later was it determined what to do with the rear shock mounts. In fact I think I may have suggested to just cut some off a Merkur. I think your memory is getting foggy in your old age, John. ;-P I think you are confusing me with Peter VanBogart. I can remember you telling me multiple times about him putting the tubes to the side of the shock tower instead of the top like you told him. Then it was a big fiasco and you made him change things.

And just to put your mind to rest, I'm only difficult when working with you, John. You're special. For everybody else I'm very easy.

.
>
> Missing a critical tube coming upwards from the
> base of the main hoop up TO the combined junction
> it seems.<<

Well, you can't really see it in these pics but instead of coming from the base of the main hoop up to the shock mount I decided to go straight across to connect the top door bar into the shock mount and shore up the door bars a bit more and effectively connect the front and rear shock towers up in sort of a straight line. I thought about going from the base of the main hoop up to the rear shock tower as well but it would have been so close to the horizontal bar lined up with the door bar that I didn't think it would add much except a little extra weight. It's plenty triangulated back there. Those shock mounts aren't going anywhere.


>
> And aside from the Nascar door bars, this cage
> looks nice.<<

I personally think the door bars are overkill, but that's how Doug wanted them. Then again, if he goes sideways into a tree maybe they won't seem so overkill anymore, he may be really happy to have them!
And thanks for the compliment.




Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2006 08:59AM by Doivi Clarkinen.

We push the top in to the existing channel and then either rivet or zeus the bottom in so that a swift kick or push and it's out. If you can break out a glass window, you can kick out a Lexan one, even if it were riveted all around. If not, RA and the FIA would have made Lexan windows illegal by now.

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Grant Hughes