Carbonetic front LSD?

http://carbonlsd.com/information.aspx

I have an opportunity to get one of these, brand new, at a substantial discount. Front 1.5 LSD.


The marketing BS looks good, but is this legit? they retail for $1400.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2009 11:53AM by Jon Burke.

Those look really nice.
REAL nice.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote

The marketing BS looks good...

Yes, it looks like excellent BS, it slices it dices it frappes, it cures understeer and oversteer, it is good for drift, rally, gymkhana, road racing, erectile dysfunction, herpes, premature ejaculation, penis envy, low urine flow, cures cancer and reduces the signs of aging.

The questions you need to ask (in no particular order) are:

Is it durable?

Is it "truly" suitable for my requirements?

Is it tunable?

Is the company reputable?

Do they honor warranty claims?

Do they have a lot of warranty claims?

Is the company likely to be around in a few years when I need them?

Do they stock parts in North America? If not, where? How long does it take to get them here?

Do they answer the phone? Respond to e-mails?

t

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Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

^^ I agree...which is why I'm asking YOU GUYS in your all knowing blanket of rally experience and neverending bucket of gearhead parts and knowledge!

I have very little real-world experience with this stuff other than hearing the names cusco, kaaz, etc come up in random conversations. None of the rallyX guys run any of this stuff.

BUT, not looking for anyone to do my homework for me, so lets answer some of those questions together!

Warranty....eh, I don't really expect anyone to warranty race parts, so I'm not too concerned about that.

North American presense...good one, a quick google search, and it looks like their US offices/whatever are based in Carson, CA. nice! (socal)
http://www.carbonetic.net/company/index.html

So I assume they definitely stock parts in America, but I can't see anywhere on the website if they stock rebuild kits, and if its 'tuneable.' HOwever, since its a mechanical plated diff, I assume its jsut like any plated diff, except its made with 'carbon' plates instead of plain old regular metal plates (insert XYZ level of hype here).



Durability, suitability and drivability...well, that's what I'm trying to figure out.


so far, 1 guy on SS.com says they're pretty good but make a lot of noise.

I want to also know if the 'claims' are true/valid on this whole carbon vs metal...which would go to the 'durability' question.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Carbon clutches in the diff? My guess based on experience with carbon multi-disc clutches is that they have very sleazy soft engagement properties until they get hot.

It's kinda scary when the clutch owner's manual says that before doing a drag launch, slip the clutch against the brakes at 2500-3000rpm for some specified "are they serious??" long time.

I remember an Exedy triple-disc in a Subaru that would not hold boost until it got hot. It felt like a worn out stocker when cold. The car owner had us replace it with a twin ceramic disc unit because it was so disconcerting to drive...

So, what I am picturing here, is a limited slip that acts like an open diff until tire spin gets extreme. Sounds like an expensive viscous unit.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2009 08:55PM by Pete.

Wouldnt a diff heat up fairly quick though, as the outside tire will be trying to go faster?

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0310_eaton_limited_slip_install/index.html

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Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

John, you already have a heavy viscous centre or 6 speed with DCCD and a rear R180 with a clutch diff RIGHT?

Be SURE you WANT a front diff before you commit.

I can check my price on Cusco front and rears if you want.

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Gone fishing

david amor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John, you already have a heavy viscous centre or 6
> speed with DCCD and a rear R180 with a clutch diff
> RIGHT?
>
> Be SURE you WANT a front diff before you commit.
>
> I can check my price on Cusco front and rears if
> you want.
>
> "this is certainly not a game for flyweights or
> ping-pong players-all arguments to the contrary"
> -C.B.


ahh, sorry...to be clear.....I'm running a stock wrx (5mt) transmission with an upgraded 20kg center diff...so I'm partially the way there, but have a bit of travel to go towards a full 'rally transmission'. OPEN stock front diff, and stock viscous R160 rear diff. just the upgraded center diff.

NO 6spd, and certainly no DCCD or R180 rear diff.

I'm on the clamshell 'RA' width 2004 gears. Not as bad as the 2002 'glass' gears, but upgrading my tranny is a must this year. My current ratios are too long, and the gears themselves, well, at 115k miles, will die a certain death at some point this year.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

They are:
World famous
ideal for gymkanha
allow driver to hit ideal clipping point
and acheive early acceleration

Consult a (smokin' hot) doctor if early accelleration lasts longer than 4 hours.

How could you go wrong with superior marketing?

Don't even think about buying something already proven in rally conditions, when you can be the first one to have something truly superior for less money. Ken and Travis will see your stage times and wonder how you do it.

:-)

Seriously, If I were going to spend money on a diff, for a subaru rally car, I would probably buy whatever Dave Anton (at Rallispec) said was best.

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Ted Mendham
www.rensport.net

DO THE REAR diff before you EVER think about doing a front LSD.

Front LSD is last.

You need the Rear LSD to keep the tail out when that front diff is pulling you into the corners.

From experience, don't get something too tight for the front as well.

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Chris

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> DO THE REAR diff before you EVER think about doing
> a front LSD.
>
> Front LSD is last.
>
> You need the Rear LSD to keep the tail out when
> that front diff is pulling you into the corners.
>
> From experience, don't get something too tight for
> the front as well.
>
>
>
> Chris

This is what I was refering to John. You need the rear first and you may not want the front at all.

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Gone fishing

This all sounds like some terrorist shit to me.

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Grant Hughes

well, I have a rear lsd....sure, its viscous, but its better than open. I can tell you right now the car is definitely rear-happy as it is w/the 20kg center diff.


this won't go in right away either....I just have an opportunity to get one of these for about $800.....so if I can get it now and save myself $600, I'd like to grab it now. I'm just trying to figure out if these are really worth the 1400...which puts it up there with a brand new cusco.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

It'll be fine. LOOK at the stuff. Round spline form on Id a bunch of square from lugs on OD heftier plates than some of the near tin foil thick shit in some of the Japanese diffs (they go for large amount of area, but with 4 big lugs, I've seen material failures of the plates at the root of the lug. i

In fact that's how I met Derek Bottles. He's just had someplace replace his diff cause it stopped working and I wander in and stick my foot in my mouth up to the hip when I say "Oh look, the drive lugs have spit up, lucky its only like 85 bucks for a set of new plates...." after he'd just been told it was broken and bought one and had it plugged in for maybe just a red c**t hair more than $85.

Oh, by the way, anybody here ever rebuild and set up clutch plate diffs???

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.