What rearend do I want?

So somebody on the Grassroots Motorsports forum clued me in to car-part.com.

Holy shit! It's an online junkyard shopping mall!

Now let's see... what do I need? Clicky clicky, awesome, found those VW bits I've been really needing!

What else do I need? REARENDS. I'm running out of patience with the bendariffic Mazda 7" and even worse, I'm running out of usable rearends.

What cars/years should I be looking for? I hear Toyota 8" a lot... where would I KNOW I'd be able to find one? I don't know anything about Toyota trucks at all.

Alternative: Is there a car rear I should be looking for? I'd like to preferably keep my 4x4.5 bolt pattern although 5x4.5 is doable.

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Pete
So somebody on the Grassroots Motorsports forum clued me in to car-part.com.

Holy shit! It's an online junkyard shopping mall!

Now let's see... what do I need? Clicky clicky, awesome, found those VW bits I've been really needing!

What else do I need? REARENDS. I'm running out of patience with the bendariffic Mazda 7" and even worse, I'm running out of usable rearends.

What cars/years should I be looking for? I hear Toyota 8" a lot... where would I KNOW I'd be able to find one? I don't know anything about Toyota trucks at all.

Alternative: Is there a car rear I should be looking for? I'd like to preferably keep my 4x4.5 bolt pattern although 5x4.5 is doable.

I think most of their pick ups and $-runners had the 8" thing.

Chopping down the flange diameter and banging a few holes in hain't no big thang
If you search for the silly things with 31-32' OEM balloonie tires you might get lucky and snag sumpin wif a 4.56 stock.

2WD Toyota trucks have 7.5 inch ring gears. All 4WD trucks had 8 inch. This applies to second and third generation trucks. I don't know about the Tacomas.

---

Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

ding ding toyota is the winner by a land slide.
I love them the stamped housing is awesome you can weld anywhere you want, gears galore the older
4 cylinder is a little narrower than the v6 rear end.

try http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ and some local 4x4 sites to you might pick up a free one.

There were some 2wd trucks w/ the 8" rear end, but not many, just the 1 TON. (in the narrower, older models) The 7.5" Toyota axle is very strong and has huge aftermarket support for gearing and diff's. It's just a bit wide for most compact cars.

-Jon

I've owned a few 2wd Toyota trucks ('84-'88 chassis) over the years. From what I've seen (with the 2wd models), the 7.5" rear axles were fitted to 5-speed models, and the 8" rear axles were fitted to 4-speed models. Typically the 5-speeds had 3.73 gears, and the 4-speeds had 3.07 gears stock.

For those years at least, the axle width is roughly 56" from drum to drum.

Everything changes with the turbo models of course, which had the slightly beefier 4-pinion 8" rears and alternate ratios. I seem to recall they used the 3.42 ratio.

The 4wd models used a wider 8" axle housing with a 6-lug bolt pattern, but with far more ratio options (4.10, 4.37, 4.56, 4.88).



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2010 08:17AM by Ascona73.

What about ford 7.5"?

7.5" Ford or GM can certainly be made to work.

The nice thing about the Toyota axle is it's well-supported in the aftermarket, it's lightweight, it's strong, and it's a front-loader (like a 9" Ford). So if you have a spare chuck, diff, and gearset...you can do a ratio swap in about 20 minutes in the car.

dana 60

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Gravity Fed
dana 60

8" Toyota is just the right amount of overkill.
and a good size.

And I already have brackets for links and shock mounts made..

What more doya want?

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dirty_d
What about ford 7.5"?

Thanks to C4C, there's a metric scadload of trak-lok, 8.8", disc brake Explorer rears out there. Cheaper and more plentiful than the 7.5 and they pretty much all have 3.73:1 gears which is what I want. And the right bolt pattern too.

But they're a cast center section which will make it super hard for me to put my suspension on it. And the axle tubes are 3.25" and seriously thick. Might be too much overkill. The rearend might outweigh the rear half of the car at that point.

BUT American rearend means a ~$100 driveshaft instead of a ~$400 one.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2010 11:11AM by Pete.

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Pete

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dirty_d
What about ford 7.5"?

Thanks to C4C, there's a metric scadload of trak-lok, 8.8", disc brake Explorer rears out there. Cheaper and more plentiful than the 7.5 and they pretty much all have 3.73:1 gears which is what I want. And the right bolt pattern too.

But they're a cast center section which will make it super hard for me to put my suspension on it. And the axle tubes are 3.25" and seriously thick. Might be too much overkill. The rear end might outweigh the rear half of the car at that point.

BUT American rearend means a ~$100 driveshaft instead of a ~$400 one.

Um last time I checked the drive shaft was a round tube and it did not care what it was connected too
so if the need to spend 400 on one thats cool.

call any drive line shop and they have on hand 1310 yokes for the larger Toyota flange and if need be
call jvab or me and we will find or sell you one for a supra with a smaller bolt pattern.

also I like 8.8 rear ends i have had a hand full of them. but its something I would not want in my car.
like you said, big tubes and heavy casting. 2 pinion diff bla. and the way the carrier is cast its kind of
scary looking. You wount have the problem the off road world dose like busted carriers, broken shafts
pulling out of the axle tube and running away.

You just have to dream... This is a Toyota 7.1" rear, 4x4.5", 4.10:1.
-Jon

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jrally
You just have to dream... This is a Toyota 7.1" rear, 4x4.5", 4.10:1.
-Jon

What's the diameter of the axles?
And who needs 4.10? Going to Bonneville?

Or does nobody understand how short gearing in the 4.88 to 5.15 range works?

nice reinforcement that should be good for the new dreamliner

thats some cool stuff

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.off-road.com/aimages/articlestandard/toyota/062006/305968/5_center_section.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp%3Fid%3D305968&usg=__pF7VqVcTVe0epRG5VL7_WxLG7Mw=&h=225&w=300&sz=12&hl=en&start=19&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=vXKohLkM4HNNiM:&tbnh=87&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtoyota%2Bfabricated%2Brear%2Baxle%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dopera%26rls%3Den%26tbs%3Disch:1

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SteelSolutions
Um last time I checked the drive shaft was a round tube and it did not care what it was connected too
so if the need to spend 400 on one thats cool.

The local driveshaft shops charge a hell of a lot more for import driveshafts than common stuff. Don't know why.

[/quote]

What's the diameter of the axles?
And who needs 4.10? Going to Bonneville?

Or does nobody understand how short gearing in the 4.88 to 5.15 range works?[/quote]

John, I've never taken the axle shaft out of the tubes, so I don't know for sure. The Cressida that axle came out of also came with a 4.30:1. Everyone else was talking about 3-ish : 1 gearing, that's what I would call Bonneville.

-Jon

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jrally

What's the diameter of the axles?
And who needs 4.10? Going to Bonneville?

Or does nobody understand how short gearing in the 4.88 to 5.15 range works?[/quote]

John, I've never taken the axle shaft out of the tubes, so I don't know for sure. The Cressida that axle came out of also came with a 4.30:1. Everyone else was talking about 3-ish : 1 gearing, that's what I would call Bonneville.

-Jon[/quote]

No idea why they were talking all that crazy talk.
Even in the desert I'd think about 105-110 mph would be plenty for most old thangs with rubber tie rods and al dente spaghetti for sterring and no castor worth mentioning.
And for 110, 4.88 sounds fine.

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Pete

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SteelSolutions
Um last time I checked the drive shaft was a round tube and it did not care what it was connected too
so if the need to spend 400 on one thats cool.

The local driveshaft shops charge a hell of a lot more for import driveshafts than common stuff. Don't know why.

I know don't let them fuck with you all you want is something that can go to 1310 and about every light
car or truck you can find a flange to 1310 and if you have a stock shaft get it shorten and it has 1350 or
about anything else in us sizes theres conversion joints for under 20 bucks.

you ever need to find a part for wired stuff call me john many others or post up and some one knows
where to get the part for a good price.

I have to admit that I was disappointed that, based upon the subject description, no one choose to make fun or insert inappropriate pictures. just saying....

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C LePoudre
I have to admit that I was disappointed that, based upon the subject description, no one choose to make fun or insert inappropriate pictures. just saying....

You think we should insert something tawdry like


Dood many of us are married men! We shouldn't be looking at firm, juicy well round globes of fun and think disgusting purile thought!
Shame on you!


Here to even out things I have to do this now, I hope you're happy! Harumph!




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2010 04:04PM by john vanlandingham.

"no, your ass makes your ass look big"

hmmm, is that representing the difference between the mazda 7" and the Dana 60?

Thx john....u just broke my fancy new phone!

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C LePoudre
hmmm, is that representing the difference between the mazda 7" and the Dana 60?

Yeah! sometime more rear end aint better.

Sometimes enough is enough

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

awesome toyota axle info there.

i like to find them from 4 runners with the 4 links. mainly because they were less likely to be wheeled hard. i bought some older leaf springed ones that were bent, but didn't find out until i got them home.

i replaced my mazda 7" with one. made a simple jig on the table, chopped off old mazda brackets and welded them on to the toyota.

depending on the width you need, there are some 5 lug 2wd trucks out there with the 8" center section. they were behind the v6 2wds.

i ended up being stuck with the wider 4x4 one because my brackets wouldn't fit the narrower one.

that left me having to have my axles redrilled and machined.

after much searching and calling, i blew JVL guesstament of what it was going to cost out of the water.

$165, for redrilled and fully machined to the rotor of your liking. i showed up with 2 bare axles, a rotor i wanted to use, a hand full of wheel studs and couple days later they were all done.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

oh hell here's some more rear end porn.






this is the wider 4x4 axle in a 1st gen rx7. might do some light fender rolling, but it really actually fits quite nicely

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

So I need to hunt down a V6 two-by. Got it. I'm not terribly worried about the brackets since I have to make my own anyway. I run a 3-link and a Panhard and I don't see much reason to stop now.

People don't really 'wheel around here, so anything truck-wise pretty much dies of boredom.

Although given that I have those nice high compression VW pistons and I just won an eBay auction for some high-zoot dual Weber manifold for an 8v VW, I probably won't be making rearend-killing 13B torque for too much longer. Well, when I have a running engine, anyway.

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Pete
So I need to hunt down a V6 two-by. Got it. I'm not terribly worried about the brackets since I have to make my own anyway. I run a 3-link and a Panhard and I don't see much reason to stop now.

People don't really 'wheel around here, so anything truck-wise pretty much dies of boredom.

Although given that I have those nice high compression VW pistons and I just won an eBay auction for some high-zoot dual Weber manifold for an 8v VW, I probably won't be making rearend-killing 13B torque for too much longer. Well, when I have a running engine, anyway.

yeah it's a good place to start because so many get parted out. that first 3.0 v6 toyota had was pretty much crap. they pretty much blow when you look at them wrong. the one i got was from a 92, i think with the generation change came the 4 link (i think) in the 4 runner in about 89-90 to 95. i know the older ones were leaf springs.

and like JVL said, depending on options you can find up to 4.88 factory. i got mine from an auto and ended up with 4.30, which should work good for what i'm doing.

one more reason to get the v6 third members was the side bearings were larger and because of that you can do a supra LSD swap pretty easy. the 4cyl and v6 both fit in any 8" housing too, just as an fyi.

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rearend-killing 13B torque

now that's just funny right there. rotary with torque. ha

i'm going a different route then rotary, WAY different.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

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mellow65

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rearend-killing 13B torque

now that's just funny right there. rotary with torque. ha

i'm going a different route then rotary, WAY different.

The (best) one I threw together this year was good for something like 170ft-lb peak, and it was a very, very broad torque curve. Max power was about 200hp at 6800. Awesome rallycross motor.