PS pump removal?

Still waiting for my workshop manual on CD to arrive.

How to I get the PS pump free of the bracket? Do I need to pull the pulley off the thing?

Pulling the engine out tomorrow hopefully.

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John you have to have a "Oafish-al PS Pulley Puller-offer Tool", so check out the fine quality items at Auto-Zone.
Once the pully is off its easy.

Just leave the whole thing on for now, pull in place.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks for the tip John. Pump is hanging out for now. ;-)

Removed the fuel tank, driveshaft, radiator, AC condensor and front bumper today.

Couple of comments/observations: Why did they leave the little slit vents in there rear load space area under the sound deadening?!

I bet a fuel filler tube that pushes into the fuel tank isn't DOT legal today! ;-)

Why did they put so many $%%^in spot welds on the front fenders? Guess they didn't want them flying off at speed!

And, what were they thinking when they designed the heater box that sits in the engine bay!? Hehe...at least I'm not bleeding.

Has anyone modified their heating system to something a bit lighter weight and less complicated?

A productive day and I'm hoping to have the engine/tranny out in the next couple of days. Then we can start welding/patching.

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

> Couple of comments/observations: Why did they
> leave the little slit vents in there rear load
> space area under the sound deadening?!

Wait until you pull up the tar in the footwells!


> Why did they put so many $%%^in spot welds on the
> front fenders? Guess they didn't want them flying
> off at speed!

Sheer annoyance factor.


> And, what were they thinking when they designed
> the heater box that sits in the engine bay!?
> Hehe...at least I'm not bleeding.
> Has anyone modified their heating system to
> something a bit lighter weight and less
> complicated?

It is common to at least remove the heat control valve assembly altogather (the crazy web of snakes by the turbo). There were Euro cars which didn't have AC so a blower unit from one of them is much simpler/smaller, but I just gutted the evaporator unit from my box and called it good.

Paddy, I was planning at least to gut the box(and remove the totem pole of hoses), but I may go with a smaller heater core and blower that I can mount inside on the tunnel in place of the stock distribution box.

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John- If you search around at the J/Y, you'll find many large American vehicles, like the Suburban, Large vans and such, that have seperate front and rear heater controls have remote mount heater cores. Some other cars do too, can't think of which ones off hand though. I'm planning on using a small ratiator from something like a Fiesta or Metro; and mounting it above the drivers foot well, under the dash. I'll make some kind of sheet metal box around it and run some ducting hose. Might even use a standard household floor register for providing heat to the victim/co-driver.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

That seems like a lot of work. We simplified the stock setup.

Removed all AC parts
Remove fiddly bypass valve
lock distibution box into defrost position and seal all other outlets.
canibalize sections of stock ducting to route up to windshield for defrosters.
Provides pleanty of heat to the driver and codriver (especially when coupled with the exhaust under the floor) hmmmmm radiate heater!

We kept the stock blower and box, stock distribution box, reused some of the ducting.

So far this setup has bullet proof and required very little engineering and fabrication. Just my 2 cents.

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Matt Smith

Racing in glorious black and red

My daily life is a Saab story (sold!)

Matt- I like that idea. I just don't like the stock plastic heater core. They are also hard to get and quite expensive. Did you do any vibration damping?

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37

Good discussion guys-thanks! :-) I know that the Subaru Canada guys had a blower/core unit mounted low to the floor with ducting to the defrost position.

I also know that there are some bus heater units that are compact for universal setups.

Something like this:

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=74566F

I'm sure there's something like that in the junkyard as well(just so John doesn't yell at me for spending too much money! ;-))

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

Another link:

http://www.accclimatecontrol.com/heaters/20057A000C.htm

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

Scott Manley Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Matt- I like that idea. I just don't like the
> stock plastic heater core. They are also hard to
> get and quite expensive. Did you do any vibration
> damping?
>
> Scott Manley
> Spokane, WA
> 86' XR4Ti
> 32



There are some high priced metal ones available.

No vibration problems yet. We have nto broken one yet. I think we put a rubber plate at the fire wall more to seal it around the core. But then I drive like a wuss. we have had more problems with the blasted thing clogging.

I should become more diligent about taking and posting pictures on the website.

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Matt Smith

Racing in glorious black and red

My daily life is a Saab story (sold!)