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Handbrake plumbing

Posted by dustinm7419 
dustinm7419
Dustin Melton
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Handbrake plumbing
January 14, 2007 06:40PM
It sounds simple (plumb line going to rears into handbrake M/C and out to the rear cylinders/ calipers) But, does this work well? Any Do's or Dont's? Can you use both at the same time? What are the effects? I'm curious, I've not plumbed mine yet.
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Titan Motorsports
Ted DeInnocentis
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 16, 2007 02:50PM
I'm interested in this as well.
I saw the setup on the 11tenths racing website. It seems like its just a mastercylinder plumbed tp the handbrake



Ted DeInnocentis
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 16, 2007 06:51PM
Wow sure looks like the Sooper Bitchinâ„¢ JVAB handbrake bracket and the Sooper Bitchinâ„¢ JVAB Conversion of a Nissan clutch master cylinder, probably cost a whopping $5 for the cylinder.
And yeah its straight in and then straight out of the rear brake circuit and from there to T at the rear firewall, and thence onwards to the each side , thru the sheetmetal and on to the rear calipers or drum.

Soooper Easy.




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wildert
Brian Klausen
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 12:33AM
Real easy... this is on my Golf using the original limiter valve gone adjustable.
(and yes - we are allowed to use pure copper piping over here).





Brgrds
Brian

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turoc
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 01:04AM
You got any of those JVAB brackets and Nissan master cylinder for sale ?



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john vanlandingham
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 01:49AM
turoc Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You got any of those JVAB brackets and Nissan
> master cylinder for sale ?
I can check, I may.






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DR1665
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 08:24AM
What Nissan master is that? Would just about any clean-looking small car master work?



Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 11:16AM
DR1665 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What Nissan master is that?
68-??? 210/510/610/710/240Z/260Z/280Z etc clutch master cylinder w 5/8" bore

Later late 80s Nissans masters are fine as well and easier to mount/dismount as the bolt holes are at 12 and 6 o'clock and thereby have a reseviou in the way, they're clocked at 60 degress so mounting is a strait extention and zip zip.
I've been ding this since about '85 and have had only 2 masters not be perfect,.



Would just about any
> clean-looking small car master work?

Maybe, but why instantly begin to wonder if something ELSE would work when you've been given information that something works.

Think about it: You'll have to go get one at the bone yard anyway.

MAYBE a Misterbitchy one will work.
Virtually all Japanese hydraulic are Lockheed stuff built under licence, and these things have internals you can swap with Lockheed, or Tilton or such.

They're even marked in large friendly letters "5/8"
>
> Brian DR1665 | Phoenix, AZ
> We are building a religion.






John Vanlandingham
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DR1665
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 17, 2007 09:32PM
john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 68-??? 210/510/610/710/240Z/260Z/280Z etc clutch
> master cylinder w 5/8" bore
Noted.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> why instantly begin to wonder if
> something ELSE would work when you've been given
> information that something works.
If I knew what the requirements were for something like this, then I could use anything I found in good condition when I was at the aforementioned boneyard.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> MAYBE a Misterbitchy one will work.
> Virtually all Japanese hydraulic are Lockheed
> stuff built under licence, and these things have
> internals you can swap with Lockheed, or Tilton or
> such.
>
> They're even marked in large friendly letters
> "5/8"
Thanks! I appreciate learning more than just the "Because it does" answers. smiling smiley

Care to humor the FNG with the benefits of this sort of thing? I was thinking about it today and I wondered, if you're running a line from the front master to this second master, how does applying the brakes via the pedal affect the way this thing would operate the rears?

That is, I can see this being a cool thing when one was NOT on the brakes, conventionally, but what happens when/if you're on the brakes, even slightly, and pull the e-brake at the same time?

Thanks in advance for helping me to understand.



Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest
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MRWmotorsports
Martin Walter
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 18, 2007 09:02AM
When you apply the foot brake the fluid just flows straight through the handbrake master. If the (foot) brakes were slightly on, and you applied some handbrake too this would just apply some additional pressure to the rear brakes. Use isn't exclusive.

-Martin.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 18, 2007 11:10AM
DR1665 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>FNG, there's a lot of things that it is simpler, and faster to do first, then you actually KNOW from doing, rather than the normal guy thing where some poor fawker has to educate you, convince you fill you with answewrs, till all doubt is driven away and then when you belieev you know, then you ask more questions about the next thing.

You have to trust carefully but at some point you have to trust.
Its quicker.
Nobody in America WANTS to acknowledge anybody else as having anything more than theyu do but a LOT of things can be done sooner, easier, CHEAPER, and better by listening and doing what you're told AND ALL WILL BE REVEALED AS YOU DO IT OR BY THE FUNCTION as soon as you use it.

You just gotta know who to trust for specific info.




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DR1665
Brian Driggs
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 18, 2007 04:55PM
john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You have to trust carefully but at some point you
> have to trust.
> Its quicker.

Why didn't you say so in the first place? I like the quicker route. Especially when it ties in to the cheaper route. The trouble comes when you expec the quick and cheap to be right as well. I've been burned a number of times by that triangle. LOL

This is good to know. No reason for me to reinvent the wheel, but I do like knowing how the wheels are made and why they work. It makes things fun. smiling smiley



Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
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Pete
Pete Remner
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 21, 2007 01:29PM
What kinda leverage ratio works okay? 5:1-7:1 ish?





Pete Remner
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1978
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 21, 2007 01:40PM
Pete Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What kinda leverage ratio works okay? 5:1-7:1
> ish?
>
Tough to say Pete.
I tried 5 times to get the balance between feel and effect, and it can be done so that a very easy pull locks up the rears.
But so much depends on the calipoer and sic sizes too, eh?
I use Volvo 240 calipers on about everything since its a know LARGE piston (1.5"/ 38mm) with a big pad easy to find, and even easy to find race pads as its same as many cheezy littel Euro sports cars in late 60s-early 70s like ooooooh Porsche 911
springs to mind.
Thast's a fairly big piston and big pad by normal spandard so it does have the oooomph to lock easily.
Can say how I'd do it if I had some of the tiny things in back like many cars have.
Rememenber I deal mostly with nice Northern You're-a-peein cars .
>
>
> Pete Remner
> Cleveland, Ohio
> 1985 RX-7 rallycross rustbucket/experimentation
> thingus
> 1983 RX-7 in progress, goal is Targa Newfoundland
> 1978






John Vanlandingham
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Pete
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Re: Handbrake plumbing
January 21, 2007 07:44PM
Very true. My main concern right now are for the 1 3/8" bore calipers and something like 9" or similarly wee rotors, in the Mazda.

I'm going to be getting a new shell pretty soon (package deal: it's a street modified car, my friend keeps all the street performance goodies and drivetrain, I get the shell) and since I'd be starting from scratch, selling off some goodies and buying a Volvo 240 rear would be a no brainer. Plus it would mean being able to find wheels and tires, and the bolt pattern is the same as the second-generation RX-7 hubs, which along with the spindles and struts and crossmember and the rest of the car ($50!) is sitting in a friend's garage waiting for something to do with it.

So, uh, appears I need to find out how to adapt a Mazda driveshaft to a Dana 30...






Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

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1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.
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