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911 Carrera RallyCross Project

Posted by BRAIDusa 
BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
November 24, 2015 06:52PM
Tailless test drive tonight. 37F; the coldest it's going to be for about a week. Not liking the look sad smiley




A 20 minute drive at 55mph to a restaurant for a business meeting prduced this:




I'd say that was 180F. I was hoping for more, after all, it wasn't that cold and the oil cooler is still covered. The exterior thermostat didn't open and it didn't overheat. Maybe I'll try restricying the deck lid grill a bit.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
November 29, 2015 04:13PM
The oil temperature issue continues to frustrate us.

The standard decklid grill is about 101 square inches while the whale tail is about 162 square inches in area. This is just measuring the individual slots and doesn't take into account the sizes of the relative mesh and slats but let's assume they are at least "similar" So it seems plausible that the whale tail would be a) less restrictive and b) capture more air when in motion. So we reinstalled the whale tail but covered half the slots with packaging tape in an attempt to restrict cold air flow to some extent but, alas, with 37F outside temperature and the engine oil cooler still covered with cardboard we only achieved what appears to be 160F. Is this a good enough oil temperature to be thrashing the engine at redline and wide open throttle? It makes us very uncomfortable. We are going to try blocking off 50% of what's left open and see if that helps but at that point we are concerned about restricting air intake for the engine itself. Temperature outside is only going to get lower.









Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
November 29, 2015 04:25PM
Perhaps driven by the need to score a victory over the car, however small, we decided it was time to install the LED gauge lamps/bulbs we have had on the parts shelf for some time. This is not for bling but for practical reasons as it is very difficult to see the odometer at night; a fact that came to light during a recent TSD rally.

So we had to pull all the gauges out one at a time, locate the illumination lamps and replace them. Actually quite easy once you figure out how to get them out of the back of the gauge.




The effect is quite illuminating.




You can't see the volt meter hidden behind the steering wheel which is fortuitous as it still has it's old yellow incandescent lamp in there. We will need to source a 194 LED replacement to finish the project. And yes, we also fixed the offset steering wheel position, and not by just moving the yellow tape either.





Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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Perry
Perry Seaman
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Location: Pittsburgh-ish
Join Date: 12/15/2013
Age: Settling Down
Posts: 36

Rally Car:
motorcycle course vehicle.


Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
December 01, 2015 12:17PM
This stuff occurred long ago, so consider that the finer details might be made up rather than accurately remembered but..

On the old VW, I eventually ditched the cooler in the fan housing and now run a large separate cooler with an electric fan on an oil temp switch at the cooler inlet. If I remember correctly, the fan comes on around 190F, and it usually comes on around 20 minutes into a drive give or take 10 minutes for weather. I think due to synthetic oil there's always some flow in the cooler, it'll feel warm long before the fan is on.

I also fixed the temperature controlled cooling air slats on mine that reduce overall airflow to the cylinders/heads until the exit air temps come up a bit. This helped get the thing to warm up quicker in all weather which generally helped the EFI tuning consistency A LOT. I don't know what Porsche used for this. the VW has flaps in the fan housing.

Also, I moved the EFI temp sensor such that it's now the aluminum temp right on the combustion chamber wall. So as soon as head temp is up the EFI comes out of warmup enrichment. This also helped the tuning consistency.

Keep in mind, I built all this stuff myself and the engine spec is way overbuilt for the ~180 hp and lowish rev limiter I use. So my attitude is usually one of 'if I brake it I'll fix it' and 'if it lasts 10K miles I'm happy'. So when I say it warms up in the winter it's usually a 5 minute idle warmup then rev limiter for 20 minutes on snow covered roads and at some point I notice the fan kicked on because the cooler is on a scoop out the side of the car right behind me and that's all the cab heat I have in it.. I even got rid of the oil temp gage I had and figure if the fan is on it warmed up. if it never turns off it's too hot. so far it always turns off after a few minutes. When I redo the dash again I plan to put the gage back.



Perry

DRZ400s course bike
KTM 950 ADV
74 Beetle turbo-efi etc..
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
December 01, 2015 03:24PM
Woe, thanks for sharing Perry. I haven't detected anything Porsche did to restrict cold air flow during warm up. As far as I'm aware it's just the two oil thermostats controlling things.

Quote
Perry
This stuff occurred long ago, so consider that the finer details might be made up rather than accurately remembered but..

On the old VW, I eventually ditched the cooler in the fan housing and now run a large separate cooler with an electric fan on an oil temp switch at the cooler inlet. If I remember correctly, the fan comes on around 190F, and it usually comes on around 20 minutes into a drive give or take 10 minutes for weather. I think due to synthetic oil there's always some flow in the cooler, it'll feel warm long before the fan is on.

I also fixed the temperature controlled cooling air slats on mine that reduce overall airflow to the cylinders/heads until the exit air temps come up a bit. This helped get the thing to warm up quicker in all weather which generally helped the EFI tuning consistency A LOT. I don't know what Porsche used for this. the VW has flaps in the fan housing.

Also, I moved the EFI temp sensor such that it's now the aluminum temp right on the combustion chamber wall. So as soon as head temp is up the EFI comes out of warmup enrichment. This also helped the tuning consistency.

Keep in mind, I built all this stuff myself and the engine spec is way overbuilt for the ~180 hp and lowish rev limiter I use. So my attitude is usually one of 'if I brake it I'll fix it' and 'if it lasts 10K miles I'm happy'. So when I say it warms up in the winter it's usually a 5 minute idle warmup then rev limiter for 20 minutes on snow covered roads and at some point I notice the fan kicked on because the cooler is on a scoop out the side of the car right behind me and that's all the cab heat I have in it.. I even got rid of the oil temp gage I had and figure if the fan is on it warmed up. if it never turns off it's too hot. so far it always turns off after a few minutes. When I redo the dash again I plan to put the gage back.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
December 01, 2015 06:06PM
Mixed bag of progress today but no oil temperature posts; not cold enough to do any meaningful testing.

First off, to make sure we win this weekends RallyCross we added some stickers/power.







[URL="[url]http://www.thayerauto.com/"[/url];]Ralph Thayer Automotive[/URL] is the series sponsor in case you were wondering.


Then we installed the last of our LED gauge illumination lamps: the aftermarket voltmeter. It cost nearly as much as the bloody voltmeter!

[IMG]http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3Euqcshlukaxroqdfv367%3C6%3Enu%3D3356%3E36%3A%3E%3A%3B2%3EWSNRCG%3Ded%3Ad%3A7%3A60%3Bh6%3B%2F7f830dg%3Bg%2F69g8e5ee7h6%3Aot1lsi[/IMG]


Then the postman arrived with a spare transmission. OK, it was a big truck. We are now practising round the clock so we can do transmission swaps between runs at the next RallyCross.

[IMG]http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3Euqcshlukaxroqdfv34564%3Enu%3D3356%3E36%3A%3E%3A%3B2%3EWSNRCG%3D636h5e84057hd%2F72%3Af0%3Bi85%2Fd%3Ai74g8f97%3B2ot1lsi[/IMG]



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
December 07, 2015 05:30PM
We had a very interesting weekend with the car, racing and making a movie!

Firstly Ryan Symancek arrived Thursday as guest driver and filmmaker for the weekend. Ryan is famous for his film series he made for /DRIVE about his experiences building his first car for RallyCross and driving a Group B Lancia 034 in New Zealand among other things. After those exploits were were hoping he wouldn't be underwhelmed by our little 911. We needn't worried.

Friday was spent prepping the car, loading the van and shooting some moving footage from the back of our Audi. It was an interesting process and the car was a star performer. Here are some iPhone shots we took of the proceedings.








One interesting result of all this was that the oil temperature reached 195F. It was 46F outside and mostly were were making passes at around 50mph so that was somewhat encouraging especially as this somewhat replicated the conditions we expected Saturday at the event. Consequently we decided to remove the plastic tape blocking of half the whale tail slots.



Race day morning we were greeted by thick fog and freezing temperatures. We were happy we had left the winter tires on the car and that the venue was only an hour away. The temperature kept going down the closer we got till it was only 24F when we unloaded and set up camp!




By the time the runs got underway the sun had emerged and burnt off most of the fog. It even climbed above freezing, barely. Ryan managed to spin the car on his first practice lap but after that he got it down. The thing is so easy to drive anyway, once you figure out not to lift mid corner. After 8 runs each and much filming Ryan finished 2nd and I was fifth, after I demolished a bunch of cones on my sixth run. I'm rusty, what can I say?








Video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hoRssnt7-54"; frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>




The car ran flawlessly, almost. After my debacle with the wall of cones I suffered a stuck throttle at wide open and shut the car down mid-run. It fired right back up at idle so we are not too sure what happened. One theory is that broken pieces of cone got jammed up in the throttle linkage as it runs almost under the transmission. At these temperatures cones just shatter when you hit them! Another is that, due to the deep ruts that were forming we were jamming frozen mud into the linkage and jamming it up that way. Either way it is a bit worrying and something we may need to address if we decide to RallyCross the car again.

Oil temperature-wise we got some good results. whale tail fully open but engine oiler cooler still shrouded we saw 195F again during the runs. This was in temperatures in the mid- thirties so quite encouraging. We drove the car home below freezing but only got 140F at highway speeds, not surprisingly.

So we can't wait for Ryan's film to be done now and released to YouTube. Expect it in about a month. Oh, and our new mascot, RALLIDOG was a big hit too.





Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
January 21, 2016 09:48AM
We think we have the oil temperature concerns addressed now. With some 5W40 oil in there and a cover over the engine oil cooler I think we should be fine. Time to move on to other issues: poor running and "popping" noises at idle!

We read on the forums that the popping noises are probably due to intake leaks; either from aging vacuum lines, oil filler gasket or, more than likely, intake manifold. It seems the bolts come loose and they can suck in the paper gaskets! These issues might also account for the rough idle. Of course there are other possible causes for the idling so we decided to look at plugs and ignition too.

So off with the distributor cap. Doesn't look pristine in there.




Neither does the rotor arm




We found these loose wires in front of the engine too. Can't believe after how many times we've had the engine out we haven't noticed them before. We must have forgotten what they were previously for, surely.




Plugs all look OK though the gaps were a little tight.




Uh Oh, another oil leak. Put it on the list.




So we gapped the plugs, cleaned up the cap and rotor, checked the oil cap gasket, looked around for deteriorating vacuum lines and checked the intake manifold bolts. Every bolt was loose! Not hand tight loose but almost. We torqued them back down and fired it back up, hoping that would be sufficient to sort it out for now.

It was smiling smiley Runs like a champ again. I think we'll plan on removing the intake manifold and replacing the gaskets and vacuum lines next time the engine is out. Which, judging by the proliferation of oil leaks recently will be quite soon.

Next we are off to Sno*Drift rally with the car to do some spectating and sell some wheels! Stay warm.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
January 22, 2016 07:18AM
One more project on our to do list before we head to Sno*Drift was to relocate the battery to the smuggler's den, the recessed box in the trunk that used to house the AC blower. Weight distribution is the oft touted reason for doing this and there may well be some benefit in that regard but to us it felt necessary because we could never get jumper cables on the terminals in the stock location behind the front left headlight and that seemed important, especially as we head into the depth of winter.

The RENNLINE relocation kit is a well designed beauty that comes with everything you need to bolt the battery securly in place. We opted for the clamp with space for a disconnect switch but did not order the switch, yet. The main pieces are anodized aluminium and all the fasteners are stainless steel. The instructions are very clear too.




Here it is fully assembled but without the battery.




This particular kit is designed for the Odyssey PC925 battery and as we have had good luck with these batteries in the past had no hesitation to go with one of these again.





And this is where it's all headed.




It drops right in and rests on the lip of the aperture. It is then clamped to the lip with two small plates and srews.




Now for the tricky bit: wiring it up. The idea is to cut the terminal off the existing battery cable and pull it through the firewall into the passenger compartment and fish it into the smuggles box through the hole in the central tunnel that used to flow air to the AC blower. It's a bit fiddle espaecially as the cable is quite big and stiff but it was quite manageable. Once in we soldered and new ring connector on the end.











With the main battery cable now in the smuggler's box this left a bunch of wires in the old location without a positive feed. We ran a new fat cable from the battery back to this area and temporarily bolted them all together while we figured out how best to connect them. We also had to include two more wires for our rally lights into this configuration.





Then we had a brilliant idea: use a radiator isolator mount from our Audi Quattro and a Tupperware box!








Worked perfectly



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 04, 2016 07:12AM
Last week we talked about prepping the car for Sno*Drift rally, even though it wasn't competing. Well now we feel obliged to let you know how it all went.
Of course it wouldn't be rally unless you were burning the midnight oil just before you left and that's exactly what we did though, of course, it wasn't planned that way. When we moved the trailer into position to load the car the next morning we found the lights only worked if we jiggled the trailer plug back and forth. Uh oh! We carefully removed the plugs cover and promptly three loose wires came out of their terminals with no clue as to which terminals they were.





We have no documentation of what terminal does what and the interweb wasn't forthcoming so we dashed out to Autozone before they closed to purchase another plug so we'd at least have a diagram and, if needed, a spare plug. The issue soon became that there were three loose wires and only two loose terminal screws. This was compounded by a wiring diagram that had the plug notch 180 degrees out of position which suggested our plug was always wired wrrong. But it wasn't as it always worked before. Oh, and the wire colors were all different too! It took a few hours to realize all these but when accounted for we got it back together. The extra wire? That turned out to be the trailer brake ground so we twinned it up with the trailer ground. PHEW! still Wednesday; just.
Loading up the car and trailer next afternoon was unefentful, thankfully, and the weather wasn't too bad with just some light snow forecast for later. Piece of cake.






So it was an easy drive to Lewiston and some logistical jiggery pokery soon saw the 911 parked at the rental house and the RALIVAN and trailer locked up in the local hardware store's yard (same owner). Then a quick jaunt over to race HQ in Atlanta via the snow covered "scenic route" had us registered, acredited and smiling. The Nokian tires proving more than adequate for the snow covered ice encrusted back roads. Back to the rental. Drinks, dinner and rally banter ensued.
The next two days were a blur of spectating and hob nobbing with participants and rally enthusiasts at our vendor booth and both parc exposes. The car really is a massive hit, even getting more attention on local TV than the rally cars. (see below) The car ran flawlessly all weekend and proved more than adequate for the conditions. There's just so much grip! After sitting in Atlanta service for two cold days the RALIVAN sputtuered into life Sunday morning to drag us all back down state without a hiccup. All said a thouroughly enjoyable but exausting weekend.

Video:



<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zgWYWqSb-Lw"; frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>









Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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Paddy1337
Tim Patrick
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Location: Raleigh, NC
Join Date: 01/26/2011
Age: Settling Down
Posts: 175

Rally Car:
Galant VR-4


Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 04, 2016 08:43PM
So, the car was built for grabbing attention at rallies? Why not racing?
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dunhamr1
Ryan Dunham
Professional Moderator
Location: Hurst, TX
Join Date: 09/17/2015
Age: Party Animal
Posts: 141

Rally Car:
1989 Merkur XR4Ti


Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 04, 2016 09:36PM
Quote
Paddy1337
So, the car was built for grabbing attention at rallies? Why not racing?

No cage, so limited to rallycross. The owner works for Braid Wheels, so the car is used as PR/advertising for the company.
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 04, 2016 10:58PM
Quote
Paddy1337
So, the car was built for grabbing attention at rallies? Why not racing?

It was built for rallycross and campaigned in the Detroit Region SCCA series for two and half seasons before it broke it's gearbox. If I remember correctly it never finished out of the top first places.

Since the gearbox rebuild I've gotten out of the habit of doing rallycrosses as I've been competing in them for fourteen years. Now seeking fresh challenges, hopefully with this car, possibly hillclimbs. We are also building a rally shelled UR Quattro this year so maybe I'll get distracted from my hillclimb career and just pose about in this one.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 12, 2016 03:37PM


That's right, our little 911 is getting a roll cage. Does this mean we are going racing? Maybe. Motivations for this are three-fold: 1) safety during track days etc. 2) Race car credibility generally. We are showing the car a lot more these days. 3) This six point bolt in cage is SCCA time-trial approved and should allow us to run the Empire Hill Climb later this year!

We picked it up from a chap in Cincinnati who was selling for "Local pickup only" as a few of the bolt on sleeves had been welded "for additional safety" which rendered it less easy to ship.




Fortunately that allowed us to win the auction for a great price as it really narrowed the market for it and, although we were willing to drive down to Cincinnati for it a good friend of the shop, Nick Clute very kindly volunteered to pick it up for us on his way back from Florida. SWEET!

We would prefer a white cage and will probably paint it before final installation but first we have to make sure it fits and that we can still install two seats with harnesses as only the driver's side harness bar is looped for extra clearance. So first thing was to remove the seat and harness bar from the car.








The rear hoop was a bugger to muscle into place unassisted but we managed and immediately a problem presented itself: we had assumed that the bolt holes in each sleeve and bar were factory drilled thus making the sleeve locations universal. WRONG. Every sleeve must have been drilled in the car as none of the holes would match up. So we wrestled the rear hoop back out and started to put this jigsaw puzzle of a cage back together in a way that rendered it somewhat 911 shaped. Eventually we had it figured out and marked everything so it could be reassembled the same way in the car. PHEW what a job.




Three hours later the cage was fully assembled in the car but it was tight and even though all the bolts were loose it had very little flexibility. It seems it is going to mount exactly where it is now and nowhere else.




Again, a few issues presented themselves; non of which are insurmountable. Firstly, the sun visors are clearly never going to work with this cage in place. I guess they are coming out.




And secondly, the door pockets line up perfectly with the door bars. Either they go or the door bars go.



I think we'll source some RS door cards from RENNLINE to tidy this issue up.




So next job is putting the seats and harnesses back in to see if they still work then adjusting the feet locations, if we can and marking bolt holes. Then taking it all back out, drilling holes (gulp), painting it and finally throwing it back in. Stay tuned, it's about to get interesting.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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BRAIDusa
Paul Eddleston
Elite Moderator
Location: Birmingham, Michigan
Join Date: 09/06/2012
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 424

Rally Car:
Subaru Outback Wagon EG33, 911 Carrera



Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project
February 19, 2016 11:09AM
We never thought this project would need a "part #2" when we started it. Guess what? There's going to be a "Part #3" as well!

When we left Part #1 we had the cage fully assembled in the car and had noted a few things to tweak and/or remove. Next we test fitted the seats to see how they would work with the car, with particular interest in how we might mount the shoulder belts since we lost the harness bar. Before we did that we took the covers off to give them a wash. Three years of RallyCrossing had left them less than pristine.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

The seats still fit but we are a little flummoxed by the height of the cage's harness bars as they seem too low. The rules say something like 10-20 degrees from horizontal and a short as possible but we think this is out of that range. Maybe we attach to the OE rear seat belt mounts which are 3 feet away and offset to the outside about six inches. More on that in Part #3.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Moving on, we next removed the door bars and door pockets so we could at least close the doors.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


And then started to work on the fitment issues, the main one of which was that the feet didn't want to sit on the wheel wells like they are supposed to.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


We suspected (hoped) this was because a) the floor was a little high from poor jacking or hitting things and b) the door bars were rubbing on the b-pillar and not allowing the rear hoop to go back far enough. Both of these proved to be the case and were each addressed with the same specialized tool: a BFH, the b-pillars after first removing their tan leather wrap. We'll paint those white like the rest of the interior later.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Now everything was falling where it should it was time to drill holes and commit to this cage!!!

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


and then take the whole thing out and reassemble it again so we can paint it.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


BTW the seat cushions turned out lovely

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr



In Part #3 we will finish this project once and for all.



Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com
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