john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Good rule of thumb: never fab more than you have to fab.. keep what is OK and add or subtract from that.. A Honda guy could do something like I came up with for the Fuckus.: save the rear part of the stamping the brakes and spindle sits on, hack away the rest. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Cosworth Paulinho Ferreira Infallible Moderator Location: Charlotte, NC Join Date: 03/15/2007 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 721 Rally Car: Honda Civic |
Retain the stock hubs with the caliper mounting ears. But since the metal on the stock arm is so flimsy, you should plate it or have a shop cut up something in 3/16 or 1/4 plate to bolt the spindle to. Similar to this but ditch the upper control arm because that's whats limiting the droop. Small arm = small arc. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2014 12:29PM by Cosworth. |
krisdahl Kris Dahl Senior Moderator Location: Issaquah, WA Join Date: 02/13/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 282 Rally Car: Integra, Civic |
If you're going that far, I would not keep the stock stamped piece. Where the hub bolts up is where it tends to fail/crack/twist. Might as well just weld to a beefier plate while in there.
I've been reluctant to do anything about the rear suspension setup because it works, and I'm not sure how much is to be gained for all the time and expense of changing it to something 'better'. |
urr Andrew Sutherland Infallible Moderator Location: Studio City CA / Camas WA Join Date: 02/22/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 275 Rally Car: Subaru, EVO, Honda, Husky |
Found a drag race version, different objectives but similar idea:
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/1309_kaizenspeed_rear_trailing_arm_assembly/ The hub assembly seems pretty simple.... |
krisdahl Kris Dahl Senior Moderator Location: Issaquah, WA Join Date: 02/13/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 282 Rally Car: Integra, Civic |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Pretty OK bit of kit. Fersurer the mount going up could be a good deal beefier for privateers, and a bigger caliper and pad than the postage stamp size thing..
Very short on details, naturally.. As for rod end size, there we can look at faster, heavier cars and use a bit of extrapolation: If this , then that... If 2 x 3/4 ID rod end is good for 850 hp car weighing min 3500 lbs with good grip and a lotta side Gs, then......maybe one 3/4" will be more than good on a lil' ol' innocent Honja going maybe 105 mph max---and then only on easy smoooooooth roads.. seems easy enough to brurn out and weld...just heftier. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Cosworth Paulinho Ferreira Infallible Moderator Location: Charlotte, NC Join Date: 03/15/2007 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 721 Rally Car: Honda Civic |
Nuf sed. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Que? Gonna do it? Whacher gonna do about front STRUTS is what I wanna know. Is there any uniformity to CV and hub splines from morphodit-u-lar "dooble brazos occilantes" and McPherson strut cars.. A front tower would be easy---then just bolt in struts! John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Aaron Luptak Aaron Luptak Super Moderator Location: SLC Join Date: 02/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 776 Rally Car: Civic... |
only concern with that (rear) approach is how the toe changes as the wheel moves through its stroke. No idea what the toe curve looks like with the stock stuff. It looks like this will gain toe out on droop, might be little change on initial bump, followed by gaining toe out as bump increases.
maybe I can get in after-hours with my buddy who does alignments and get the whole toe curve measured on his work's alignment rack... (and then fab up a mockup of this setup and do the same...) KF7RWG http://www.utahrallygroup.com Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2014 04:16PM by Aaron Luptak. |
Aaron Luptak Aaron Luptak Super Moderator Location: SLC Join Date: 02/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 776 Rally Car: Civic... |
Managed to get in touch with a Bilstein engineer, got some real numbers on the dampers (and, particularly, the internal spacers):
Based on my math: Front 114mm + 10mm spacer / .65 motion ratio = 190mm wheel travel. Rear 191mm + 35mm spacer / .77 = 293mm wheel travel Assuming the pivots can be made to move a little more freely (regularly lubed urethane bushings, sphericals, ???), we should definitely be able use all that travel on the front, CV joints willing. We'd need to go to a shorter, stiffer bumpstop to use more of it, the stock 60mm bumper is lifting the car by the time its compressed to ~20mm. On the rears, who knows? I was only able to move the shock through ~140mm of travel because of the goofy twisting bushing, so the shock clearly isn't the limiting factor here. KF7RWG http://www.utahrallygroup.com |
reecers Reece Junior Moderator Location: Oklahoma City Join Date: 03/07/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 161 Rally Car: 1991 Ej20g'd Legacy |
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Aaron Luptak Aaron Luptak Super Moderator Location: SLC Join Date: 02/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 776 Rally Car: Civic... |
no idea - current agenda is keep my head above water with the twins (4 months old now), eventually get some practice welding thin stuff, get the engine bay stitch welded, figure out what I'm doing to actuate a hydraulic clutch, if I'm changing anything with the brakes, seat mounts, cage additions, then maybe start worrying about suspension... (that's the short list... ) KF7RWG http://www.utahrallygroup.com |
reecers Reece Junior Moderator Location: Oklahoma City Join Date: 03/07/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 161 Rally Car: 1991 Ej20g'd Legacy |
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Aaron Luptak Aaron Luptak Super Moderator Location: SLC Join Date: 02/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 776 Rally Car: Civic... |
for cone squishing, HDs + stock springs are great IMO. For the Escort F2, the manual lists 34 N/mm F, 26 N/mm R. That's 194 lb/in F, 148 lb/in R. using .65 F and .77 R motion ratios, my math says you'd need 459 lb/in F and 249 lb/in R springs to hit those wheel rates. that's about where I'm thinking I'll start. KF7RWG http://www.utahrallygroup.com |
reecers Reece Junior Moderator Location: Oklahoma City Join Date: 03/07/2013 Age: Settling Down Posts: 161 Rally Car: 1991 Ej20g'd Legacy |
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