vr6?

Opinions? Performance options?

In another thread it seems people agreed that if you were willing to take a 300lb penalty, there was no other real drawback to the MKIII golf.

Soooo, those came with VR6 engines. What are the opinions on that engine as a rally engine?

shitty weight balance with it + more cylinders= more parts=more money. Better off going the Wimpey way and you roughly get about the same power. European market ABF 2.0 16v

Oscar

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

Thanks, I knew I hadn't seen anyone running one, now I know why.

How much do those ABF 2.0 16v's cost?

gemorris Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks, I knew I hadn't seen anyone running one,
> now I know why.
>
> How much do those ABF 2.0 16v's cost?

$49.95

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

ABFs are about $2000+ and have decent hp and torque. Factory ratings were 150 but they always produced more than that but not anounced not to kill vr6 sales. I believe the wimpeys one puts out about 140 whp. You can also create your own ABF with an ABA bottom end 16v head and some conversion parts

Oscar

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

ABF's were never sold on this side of the pond and sell for about 700quid in the UK...after shippig expect to pay $2500 for a complete motor with all accesories plus---and most importantly---the fuel injection system complete.

You can build yourself a fake ABF by taking an ABA "tall block" 8v botom end, putting 2.0l 16v pistons in it and bolting on a 16v head....However, in order to make it equivalent to an ABf motor, you will also have to put in some more agresive cams (10.8mm lift stock on ABF), do some head work, add a header, and then add programmable electronic fuel injection...

Needless to say, the price is roughly the same but getting the real bits should make for a motor with factory reliability.

here is my motor: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2452712

---

____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Start with tall deck hight block what ever that was (ABA??), use G60 froged crank, get some large vavles long rods, short pistons and carbs.

Makes good power and sounds much better than fuel infected motor.

With this 4 cly motor you will quickly find out the drive shafts are shit, the motormounts are shit, the subframe is shit, the CV's are shit, the stock brakes are shit, the pressure plate is shit, the cluch is wilted steaming shit...

Power = need for a lot of money to fix the rest of the car.

---

In the long run reality always wins.

derek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Start with tall deck hight block what ever that
> was (ABA??), use G60 froged crank, get some large
> vavles long rods, short pistons and carbs.
>
> Makes good power and sounds much better than fuel
> infected motor.
>
> With this 4 cly motor you will quickly find out
> the drive shafts are shit, the motormounts are
> shit, the subframe is shit, the CV's are shit, the
> stock brakes are shit, the pressure plate is shit,
> the cluch is wilted steaming shit...
>
> Power = need for a lot of money to fix the rest of
> the car.
>
>

Got most of that covered... yum ABF on carbs... this is going to be fun

---

-Jason