Chevy T5 into 240

What's up folks.

So, For my next trick, I am going to be trying to get this trans, A Chevy T5 PN 1352-166 into my Volvo.

I've got all the big stuff, JV helped set me up with the adapters.
I just have a question about some of the little things, And I was hoping that someone here would have an answer.

I haven't gotten a solid answer as to what clutch fork people have used in the past to make this combo work. Does anyone here have any ideas on where I can get one that works out, or if a custom one has to be fashioned? All I have found was some mention of a 'Toyota truck' fork.

Thanks.

Rob R.

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Enablers, All of you.

Hey. I just finished my swap up using the T5 from a V6 camaro. I can write up some of the stuff I did, but it will have to be after Oregon Trail. Packing and prepping for now. I used the Volvo M46 clutch fork here:

With some spacers to fill in the gab on the throw out bearing from here:
http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=32
I had to grind the spacers so they were the right size to fit in my bearing.

I was eyeballing those spacers, but seeing how they are listed as the ford model, I figured they were a no-go.
Glad to see they can be made to work

A write up would be greatly appreciated.
I am still in need of the clutch disc and the yoke and then i have to graft it to the volvo, so I can wait.


Quick question: with that set up, what TOB and disc did you use?

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Enablers, All of you.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2013 12:03AM by BobOfTheFuture.

What are your plans for a clutch disk? I got a custom stage 1 spec clutch that was sized for the volvo flywheel but had the inner spline to fit my t5. That worked great. It was a hair thicker so I had to use some washers I got from JVAB when bolting on the pressure plate. I can't remember what they are called. You can ask JVAB about them though.

Well, I had talked to JV about this a while back.

I think what I can gather from my crappy notes was that I was going to use a stock disc (I believe the splines are the same)
And per my notes: "PP typ 228"

I sort of remember that this was maybe.. a Saab part? Damn my crappy notes. I'll have to call him.


What throw out are you using?

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Enablers, All of you.

i'm actually finishing up the xmember for this swap for my DD today. i'll get measurments when i pull the stuff out of the mockup car. its on the lift so i'll try and snap some photos too.

the disc i used is a MB280e ? sachs SD655 , 1861 775 033 , 0112500903 WP , bar code 0860903781, way to many numbers on the box, i'll dig thru my catalogs and get the current sachs number


i used a chevy throw out, the shortest one.

and the oem volvo fork listed above. just had to remove a little legth off the pins and got some hardened tubing with the correct id and od , cut to lenght and pressed over the pins. i did have to take a little chunk out of the back of the fork and brace it to get the release clearance needed. and had to shim the pivot ball .

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lawrence knox aka fidel
knox motorspors
knoxmotorsports.us

Why not just do a hydraulic throwout bearing?

I am not very familiar with hydraulic tob's, and keeping it cable seems like it would just be easier no?

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Enablers, All of you.

Quote
phlat65
Why not just do a hydraulic throwout bearing?

a cable can be changed roadside in no time , its light and easy to carry a spare .
just make sure the motor is grounded well , most of the failures i see are from the cable working as the motor ground because the engine ground had failed.

hydraulic systems have more parts , heavier , requires fluid and bleed if a component fails , a pain in the rear to do on stage / roadside. if an internal slaves blows , fluid all over the clutch .

the only advantage i can think of for a hydro system is being able to have a easier pedal effort with real heavy pressure plates. but cables can do that with changing pedal or fork ratio .

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lawrence knox aka fidel
knox motorspors
knoxmotorsports.us

Quote
fidel

Quote
phlat65
Why not just do a hydraulic throwout bearing?

a cable can be changed roadside in no time , its light and easy to carry a spare .
just make sure the motor is grounded well , most of the failures i see are from the cable working as the motor ground because the engine ground had failed.

hydraulic systems have more parts , heavier , requires fluid and bleed if a component fails , a pain in the rear to do on stage / roadside. if an internal slaves blows , fluid all over the clutch .

the only advantage i can think of for a hydro system is being able to have a easier pedal effort with real heavy pressure plates. but cables can do that with changing pedal or fork ratio .

All very good points..
I like hydraulic because I'm used to it. And because it gives you signs of impending problems..(drip-drip-drip)
But The thought of having to remove the gearbox to get access to a annular slave is daunting, (on the other hand, those annular things are stupid reliable)
but then again i don't like working on cars so I want the work to be easy---like external slave cylinders are...or cables.

No need for heavy pedal, not with all the differnt pressure plates in use now..Saab 240 will hold around 350 ft/lbs, far in excess of what any 2wd car needs and its a light pedal.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
fidel
i'm actually finishing up the xmember for this swap for my DD today. i'll get measurments when i pull the stuff out of the mockup car. its on the lift so i'll try and snap some photos too.



i used a chevy throw out, the shortest one.

and the oem volvo fork listed above. just had to remove a little legth off the pins and got some hardened tubing with the correct id and od , cut to lenght and pressed over the pins. i did have to take a little chunk out of the back of the fork and brace it to get the release clearance needed. and had to shim the pivot ball .

Trying to get this going again (no joke, every time I try to work on the Volvo life tries to put me in the hospital, or try take my apartment away)

Fidel- Ever get any of those pics? Why did you have to cut the fork/shim the ball? The throw out too tall?
Which TOB did you use- I was going to try the 87 Camaro one, but would like to not throw away $60 on something that doesn't fit.

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Enablers, All of you.

Quote
BobOfTheFuture

Quote
fidel
i'm actually finishing up the xmember for this swap for my DD today. i'll get measurments when i pull the stuff out of the mockup car. its on the lift so i'll try and snap some photos too.



i used a chevy throw out, the shortest one.

and the oem volvo fork listed above. just had to remove a little legth off the pins and got some hardened tubing with the correct id and od , cut to lenght and pressed over the pins. i did have to take a little chunk out of the back of the fork and brace it to get the release clearance needed. and had to shim the pivot ball .

Trying to get this going again (no joke, every time I try to work on the Volvo life tries to put me in the hospital, or try take my apartment away)

Fidel- Ever get any of those pics? Why did you have to cut the fork/shim the ball? The throw out too tall?
Which TOB did you use- I was going to try the 87 Camaro one, but would like to not throw away $60 on something that doesn't fit.

Dood, Lawrence is re-trenching everything in life as he's been fucked up with some medical shit and I just on last Friday had the 7th surgery in last I dunno--4 years or some shit.. He sounded better on Friday thatn I did when we talked last or maybe that was Saturday--I was delirious (on DRUGS!) Friday---and busy painting half the apartment...

I now have some Volvo clutch arms and shit here so lemme look.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2013 09:01AM by john vanlandingham.

John

Well, that's rough. Hope you both heal up. What's going on with you, still working on back problems?

I was pretty messed up as well, with some blood poisoning thrown in for good measure. As I paid that off (straight out of the 'cage the Volvo' fund which ran out far too early) my landlord kicked her husband out, then a few weeks later let us know she couldn't afford the house and the bank was knocking on the door.

Not saying I'm quitting- I'm saying I haven't, and I am back up to speed.


I have the fork/clutch arm dealie from a M47 and it seems its the wrong one (although correct stock part for my car as it is). I was going to try to get a M46 fork/arm with the pins and try to use the Kaplhenke blocks as CoryG above mentioned.
If you can look, that would be a great help John.
That still leaves the question of the TOB.

Also, I tried to call you today: I think I want to go with one of your flywheels if you have any made up. If you recall, you suggested wayyy back to use the stock with a motley of pressure plate and clutch discs... None of these am I sure what to use. I figure using your flywheel will simplify that, and save me adding it later.

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Enablers, All of you.

Rob,

I used the throw out bearing out of a kit for a V6 chevy s10. I got it as part of a clutch kit, but you can find it by itself on rock auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219783&cc=1061053). Just make sure to verify the bore matches your input shaft diameter.
As for clutch disc, I called Lawrence and had him order me a Volvo clutch from spec but with a custom spline to match my input shaft. Pretty easy to get. It was a hair thicker so I had to get some nifty little washers from John to space the stock Volvo pressure plate up a little bit.

John, From what Volvo trans was that modified bell housing from? M47?

Also, If you still have any, I need one of the mounts for the Chevy t5 to mount to your crossmember.

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Enablers, All of you.