Noooooob building Audi 4000

Soooo......hunting season and winter goes by. We're completely fed up with living in MPLS. So we move! Like an hour and a half OUT of the city. Wooohooooo! Car still hasn't been touched at this point. Took a month but finally got settled in 3 months ago in our new house.... Pics as of about 3 weeks ago.



I then had the awakening. NOW is the time I've been waiting literally years for. Time for a dedicated race car. The timing was right, the motivation and drive is there and the most crucial element? Even with the costs I swung past her, the wife agreed! Green light bitches!

And this is where it's at now. Gutted it, stripped the sound deadening and am working on patching a couple spots on the floor pan. Plus I've been waiting on the Bentley I ordered last week, so I can start picking through some of the wiring. I'll pull the body harness and delete all the crap I won't need any more. Also had an RA cage builder out of Princeton over yesterday going over cage options. So hopefully by September it'll, well, I'LL be ready to get the cage done.







And a shot of the other ride. Which is for sale btw.....for anyone interested ya know.

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deaner

Quote
john vanlandingham


AJ has build thread here somewhere.
The arms shall look like thick versions of the 3 piece deals and the bottom part will be a squareish deal with 4 bolts in the corners and bolts down to a matching flange welded onto the body just above the "ears"...Pretty simple really.

Gotcha. So it slips over and is bolted to the flange type of deal? Makes sense. I'll hunt around for AJs thread. Is that red 4k using factoryish top mounts?

No he's using some fancy-schmantzy top mounts I got him out of Sweden and it was those when they came that made me thing we can use the basic Ford Group A things----which would have been sent an hour ago to AJ if I had his new address somewhere. You would not believe how much time is spent seaching for people's addresses..seriously. They send me thousands for custom suspension and frequently I have no idea who "mondodevastator1974killa" is---one of the reasons why we like real names and locations here---I can remember Bob from Bumphuque, Misery with the Blue Subaru GC8 but somehow just can't remember all these made up cutsie names..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'm here every now and agian. 541-701-7983 if you'd like. If you find my cage, a couple things I'd do different is make sure you can fit a spare tire in the back seat area.

I kinda skimmed your post, but what was the reason for swapping the rear diff?
I've also got some drawings for the control arm bushings somewhere if you don't want to pay top price at some of the online vendors.
Cutting the factory seat rails out is a bitch. I F'ed one up pretty good and then just decided to weld the square tubing for the seat mounts directly to it. SO DON"T BOTHER TRYING TO REMOVE THEM> WASTE OF TIME!

Just solved the fuel tank outlets issue a couple of days ago. (if you want to run fuel lines inside the car) Gimme a call and I'll explain it.


John is sending me some top mounts to me per the address I'm PM'ing him now. I'll let you know how they look.

Here's what the Swedish top mounts for Vittorio look like:


And here's the Ford things nearest camera:



Making them


Rubber goes on and then whole unit shoved up and top ring screwed down.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Rubber goes on and then whole unit shoved up...

I just couldn't help quoting that...

---

First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

Quote
john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

Also, dad just sold his 70 ratsun 240z. 38k original miles, (we drove it alot actually, it was a barn find) all original stuff in boxes, lots of suspension and brake mods. I think Gene was looking for a datsun a while ago.

AJ, top mounts should be there Saturday. Be creative. Mainly look at the rubber to tower fit You can razor-blade off the upper lip if the hole in the tower is not the same or too small..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Here's what the Swedish top mounts for Vittorio look like:


And here's the Ford things nearest camera:



Making them


Rubber goes on and then whole unit shoved up and top ring screwed down.

These look sexy as hell! Hopefully they'll be close enough to work without too much head ache! Excited to hear some updates from AJ!

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aj_johnson
I'm here every now and agian. 541-701-7983 if you'd like. If you find my cage, a couple things I'd do different is make sure you can fit a spare tire in the back seat area.

I kinda skimmed your post, but what was the reason for swapping the rear diff?
I've also got some drawings for the control arm bushings somewhere if you don't want to pay top price at some of the online vendors.
Cutting the factory seat rails out is a bitch. I F'ed one up pretty good and then just decided to weld the square tubing for the seat mounts directly to it. SO DON"T BOTHER TRYING TO REMOVE THEM> WASTE OF TIME!

Just solved the fuel tank outlets issue a couple of days ago. (if you want to run fuel lines inside the car) Gimme a call and I'll explain it.


John is sending me some top mounts to me per the address I'm PM'ing him now. I'll let you know how they look.

.

I did find your thread. Your car is looking good! I didn't think a simpler dash would look as good as yours does. I've always liked the dashes that came in those. Even thought about ripping the one out of my donor to see how far off everything was compared to a B2. Was wondering the thought of putting the spare in the cabin versus in the trunk? Did I miss something? Maybe I need to reread that whole thread lol...

As for the rear diff swap, there were a couple reasons. One was keeping all of the ratios and parts the same being as I swapped in the 01a, plus I swapped over the 2pc setup. I'm not even positive how far off they were, but it just seemed easier at the time to just swap everything over as it was in the donor car. I want to say the axle lengths were a little different and I KNOW the splines were def different. I guess my main reason was for sourcing parts. Can just walk in to where ever and get axles, bearings, bushings, ball joints etc, for the donor car vs mixing and matching parts, like an axle for a 4k but with a 90q outer cv, type of deal. Thought was to keep things somewhat stream lined/simple when it came to using factory parts.

Hell yes its a pain in the ass cutting those stupid things out! Tried on a VW years ago and promised myself I'd never go through that again. Ended up having to patch all these stupid little tear spots where the welds were...uuuggghhhh....


What kind of bushings? I'm always interested in saving money lol! I haven't thought too hard yet about fuel lines, as of right now I've got a few things I'm trying nail down first. For now I'm thinking just stock stuff until it becomes a problem. I don't need more fuel like your 10vt, so I think I'll be alright for now..

Was going to ask you too if you would be interested in washers to make your center diff 4:1. I've got a few machinist friends that would def cut them for me. I just need to get everything apart and to them to figure it out. Thinking this fall, going into winter I'll get on making a bunch depending on if other people would want to split up maching costs. All the ones I've seen we're for like $150 for the washers or $550 to have 034 do it. I can't justify $150 on washers lol.

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deaner

Was going to ask you too if you would be interested in washers to make your center diff 4:1. I can't justify $150 on washers lol.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

rear differentials are for all intents and purposes the same. keep your old one as a spare. they use the same ratios. I will not need the washer mod for the a1 a transmission. I swapped my old 1a for an 016 like your old one. also the washer mod does not bias the transmission to the front or the rear it just allows a higher multiplier twerk to be sent from spinning tire. Waste of time. Drive it as is. Grab a center diff from the junker and weld it, or go back to the 016

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aj_johnson
also the washer mod does not bias the transmission to the front or the rear it just allows a higher multiplier twerk to be sent from spinning tire. Waste of time. Drive it as is. Grab a center diff from the junker and weld it, or go back to the 016

That goes against what I have known about the mod. From what I can gather, it does bias towards the rear. I've never driven a Quattro with it, but have spoken with numerous people who all say the same thing. On Tarmac it reduces the snot out under steer and when it's a little slick, inducing and holding a slide is much more manageable, WHEN the rear is locked, which it will be on mine. A friend of mine claims in the snow all he has to do now is stab the throttle and the tail walks out. That initial Quattro plow before the tail end swings was completely gone.

I dunno. Maybe I'll try both next summer. I'd like to be able to use a handbrake if needed. Ain't happening with a locked center.

Quote
deaner

Quote
aj_johnson
also the washer mod does not bias the transmission to the front or the rear it just allows a higher multiplier twerk to be sent from spinning tire. Waste of time. Drive it as is. Grab a center diff from the junker and weld it, or go back to the 016

That goes against what I have known about the mod. From what I can gather, it does bias towards the rear. I've never driven a Quattro with it, but have spoken with numerous people who all say the same thing. On Tarmac it reduces the snot out under steer and when it's a little slick, inducing and holding a slide is much more manageable, WHEN the rear is locked, which it will be on mine. A friend of mine claims in the snow all he has to do now is stab the throttle and the tail walks out. That initial Quattro plow before the tail end swings was completely gone.

I dunno. Maybe I'll try both next summer. I'd like to be able to use a handbrake if needed. Ain't happening with a locked center.

Dane, dooooooood, post linkies to these people talking..
I'll glance at it but I'm telling you right up front that 99.9999% of people blabbering in print about anything at all in any way about differentials, gearboxes , drive lines (prop-shafts, CVs etc,) clutches etc have NEVER TOUCHED ONE, and even fewer have modded one---this included magazines...and especially web site product descriptions.., and even few understand how mods affect things...

Think of that on one hand, OK... Next AJ spends every day working on --installing and service extremely expensive crazy ass shit---and interestingly he's the second guy I'm working on projects with who does the CT scan and MRI machine install and repair---and both guys a very careful analysts---and recognize bullshit and loose talk (SNAP) like that... (think of it, the machines they work every day on are both mechanical and way electrical and horribly expensive--that's pressure alone---this forces guys to think...

What's I'm saying is keep a ear peel for what AJ is saying, he's sharp. Sharper than the average bear.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham


Dane, dooooooood, post linkies to these people talking..
I'll glance at it but I'm telling you right up front that 99.9999% of people blabbering in print about anything at all in any way about differentials, gearboxes , drive lines (prop-shafts, CVs etc,) clutches etc have NEVER TOUCHED ONE, and even fewer have modded one---this included magazines...and especially web site product descriptions.., and even few understand how mods affect things...

Think of that on one hand, OK... Next AJ spends every day working on --installing and service extremely expensive crazy ass shit---and interestingly he's the second guy I'm working on projects with who does the CT scan and MRI machine install and repair---and both guys a very careful analysts---and recognize bullshit and loose talk (SNAP) like that... (think of it, the machines they work every day on are both mechanical and way electrical and horribly expensive--that's pressure alone---this forces guys to think...

What's I'm saying is keep a ear peel for what AJ is saying, he's sharp. Sharper than the average bear.

That wasn't a dig on AJ or his level of expertise in the slight. Never my intent, if it came off that way. With I dunno, like 4-5 years professionally building cars for people who have absolutely no place driving a car with 200hp, let alone the 700+ hp machines they receive after cutting a check, I'm well aware of the complete morons out there. Actually your exact first whole paragraph is why I haven't been part of any forums for years, until now. This place so far, is probably the only forum I have ever seen where intelligent, experienced people come together to share ideas, with out all of the bashing, misinformation, gimmicks, etc. Probably why I'm drawn to this faucet of Motorsports in general, the nuts and bolts of it all fascinates me. Purpose built cars that have to stay together and perform in the most dynamic and abusive environments in any Motorsport on the planet. This sport bleeds ingenuity and creativity.


With that being said, machines are just nuts and bolts. Sometimes complex and sometimes simple. Changing this do dad for that do dad has "x" effect. We all know that. AJ was absolutely correct when he said its just a torque multiplier. That's exactly what you're doing. Torsens are already rear biased. You remove the slippery bits with grippy bits. You're magnifying what's already there with more friction. Audi put squishy bits in there because most drivers are idiots. Had to dumb down the car for the masses. Lol I may not have the best terminology or descriptions sometimes. I tend to keep things simple sometimes so my head doesn't explode.

There's a pretty good explanation of Torsens in this one.... http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/206706-how-to-mod-1-piece-torsen-diff-with-pictures

I'm digging for the files from Torsen themselves. All technical drawings and babble explanations.


Like I said in my post earlier. Ill try both next summer just for some experimentation and shits and giggles.