240 build for stage rally

But I love Phosgene!



these are pretty awesome: http://www.directindustry.com/prod/dynabrade-europe/pneumatic-belt-sanders-8306-449550.html


Not quite as awesome, but way less $ and mine has been going strong for years. Great for adjusting tubing mitres, prep for welding and can get in all sorts of tight spots. Pretty much one of my favorite tools. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9031-8-Inch-21-Inch-Variable/dp/B00004YOH7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386896803&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+9031

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NoCoast
We use non-chlorinated brake clean...

Can you even buy chlorinated?

Yup, most definitely can. I've seen it in Napa, Walmart

Like: Permatex 82606 or CRC BRAKLEEN 05089

Hey Justin any chance you could post a photo of the main hoop? Particularly the mounting points. Im trying to build some but I keep bouncing back and forth between two ideas.

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Eric Ewert
Hey Justin any chance you could post a photo of the main hoop? Particularly the mounting points. Im trying to build some but I keep bouncing back and forth between two ideas.

I hope this helps.

That does. Basically Im just concerned about clearance for the seats and was thinking of maybe putting it on the shelf where the rear seat went.

The one other question I have is about roll cage rules. Correct me if im wrong but the dash bar is not mandatory correct?

Also for your door bars the lower one which is parallel with the floor is not mandatory... correct? You would just need the "X" style bars and not that lower one to be legal? Hopefully this makes some sort of sense.

Eric,
Asking someone who isn't building a car for use in Canada for advice on what is required or not is not the best thing to do.
Build the cage to match FAI 253-8 and you'll be good.
That means:
- two door bars, no 'sill bar' needed.
- No dash bar needed.

However:
Adding a 'sill bar' is a good idea and I think MIGHT be mandated by RA or NRS.
If you ever want to road race the car in Western Canada, add a dash bar. when it is easy to do so. WCMA mandates them and I seem to recall forced a competitor to add one to a homologated cage design, which then voided the homologation.

---

First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

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john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

Quote
Morison
Eric,
Asking someone who isn't building a car for use in Canada for advice on what is required or not is not the best thing to do.
Build the cage to match FAI 253-8 and you'll be good.
That means:
- two door bars, no 'sill bar' needed.
- No dash bar needed.

However:
Adding a 'sill bar' is a good idea and I think MIGHT be mandated by RA or NRS.
If you ever want to road race the car in Western Canada, add a dash bar. when it is easy to do so. WCMA mandates them and I seem to recall forced a competitor to add one to a homologated cage design, which then voided the homologation.

I figured he was building this according to fia 253 which was why I was asking. Thanks for the heads up on the dash bar. I may very well try and road race it somewhere down the line if there is a track easily accessible so this is very good info to have.

It'd help more if the open end was UP..
Slide the lid in place for fitting and getting it as high as possible and tacking the bars ABOVE the doors so you don't conk yer hear EVERY time you get in the car..
When its time to do the top welds, slide the top out---or the whole box---drop the cage down zap zap---lift the whole thang up--slide box or top in and zap the down.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham
It'd help more if the open end was UP..

Ahhh... me no comprehendo man! Open end of what?

As far as getting the top welded what about like this?

Skip to 6:30






Edit: Sorry John if you were addressing Justin, just trying to get something outa this.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2013 11:41PM by Eric Ewert.

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Eric Ewert

Quote
john vanlandingham
It'd help more if the open end was UP..

Ahhh... me no comprehendo man! Open end of what?

As far as getting the top welded what about like this?

Skip to 6:30
<snip for brevity>

What John is calling for, is essentially same-same, but WITHOUT burning a hole in the floor - turn that box so the open-end is UP and cap it (you have make one anyway), but only a small tack or two. When time to weld the top of the cage, break the tack, slide the cap out from beneath the cage-end, drop it down-into the box, weld, lift back, slide the cap back in, weld, done.

Could be done in 4 places. If you do not like having JUST a "box" for your cage feet, gusset the sides of it, or plate behind it.

---

Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

I am:
I know:
I am from:

Nobody.
Nothing.
Nowhere.

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Creech

Quote
Eric Ewert

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john vanlandingham
It'd help more if the open end was UP..

Ahhh... me no comprehendo man! Open end of what?

As far as getting the top welded what about like this?

Skip to 6:30
<snip for brevity>

What John is calling for, is essentially same-same, but WITHOUT burning a hole in the floor - turn that box so the open-end is UP and cap it (you have make one anyway), but only a small tack or two. When time to weld the top of the cage, break the tack, slide the cap out from beneath the cage-end, drop it down-into the box, weld, lift back, slide the cap back in, weld, done.

Could be done in 4 places. If you do not like having JUST a "box" for your cage feet, gusset the sides of it, or plate behind it.

Yes.

I have always thought it madness that people recommend to other people to cut holes in the floor---right where cage feet will later be supported, and mores- now that people have decided that they don't need to do spreader plates since physics and mean have both changed since
"THE RISE of the FORUMS!"

I made "footer" or "spreaders that had the area and which ran up the sloped or vertical part of the sill---thereby being the "inside wall" if the "box', the I sawed away the square tube so it was kinda like the other 3 sides of a box. and trimmed it to match the spreader plate
So now we have: (per side)
* a spreader---bottom of box and one "wall" as part A
*the three sided former squre tubing as part B
* a "top" (to which the main hoop will be welded)

Pretty easy to make, common junk. strong. Safe and I dfon't have to worry about the quality of what passes for welding, especially in thin 0,8 to 1mm sheet modern junk is stamped from...

But that was before I learned the wording about spreaders was special words, and you didn't have to do it if it was any effort.
That's good.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I understand the concern about cutting holes in the floor, but what if you double skinned it from the underside afterwords?

For me its really appealing because I can drop the cage through the floor, then jack the car up to drop it further. It would end up being really really easy to access to the top of the cage to weld.

Justin look whats coming your way...


Time for dusting off the ol Paypal..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.