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Subie rear suspension questions

Posted by TronDD 
czwalga
steve czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 06:29AM
Sounds like a plan. John, let me know what you need from me to make a few sets of spacers.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 09:46AM
Quote
czwalga
Sounds like a plan. John, let me know what you need from me to make a few sets of spacers.

Get some more of the guys yacking about this together and up the series.. More numbers is always better for costs..



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si
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si
Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 10:23AM
I could be interested in this as well - but can someone explain a bit better the design? Seems it would be hard to do a batch run of spacers themselves unless we're all sourcing the same end joints. If I understand right the goal is a combination of making the rear laterals stronger while at the same time making them adjustable length, and getting rid of those sloppy sleeved rubber bushings that like to weld themselves to the bolts. Is this meant to be done with the stock subframe, knuckles, and swaybars, or is this with a reinforced subframe and different/other swaybar mounting setups?
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czwalga
steve czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 11:10AM
John,

Why don't you shoot me some prices cost per X amount. Maybe i'll just buy a bunch up front and can resell them later.

I personally don't enjoy group buys because, sometimes you just never get the amount you need and people are wishy washy.
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czwalga
steve czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 11:18AM
Quote
si
I could be interested in this as well - but can someone explain a bit better the design? Seems it would be hard to do a batch run of spacers themselves unless we're all sourcing the same end joints. If I understand right the goal is a combination of making the rear laterals stronger while at the same time making them adjustable length, and getting rid of those sloppy sleeved rubber bushings that like to weld themselves to the bolts. Is this meant to be done with the stock subframe, knuckles, and swaybars, or is this with a reinforced subframe and different/other swaybar mounting setups?


All it is, is 2 heim joints with swedged tubing. The heim joint's wont have to be the exact same, just the same thickness; same ID maybe as well.

It fits in the stock subframe and stock knuckles. The heim joints may only be 3/4", while the stock bushing is 1.5~. The spacers john would make are just nice stainless pieces to evenly fill the gap.

Really you could probably weld some washers together, grind them down and it would work. There's some give especially on the subframe to squeeze together. However it would be much nicer and easier to deal with with premade spacers.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2014 11:21AM by czwalga.
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si
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si
Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 11:37AM
Yup, we're basically creating these: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GODSPEED-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-93-01-02-07-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-GC8-GDA-GDB-GDF-/221363236542?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338a46eebe&_uhb=1

Hopefully for cheaper and better quality would be the guess - but how are you going to handle the swaybar mount? There was a company I believe that made a mount that was intended for this and bolted somehow between the knuckle and the lateral, but I never saw one so I'm not sure how it worked.

There was some discussion of creating these a while back on rs25.com - and I know they had a long debate and settled on the fact that having the adjustment at the heim joint was not optimal and it should be in the middle of the link instead, but I have no idea why they came to this conclusion, but I also have seen most of the aftermarket ones adjust in the middle.

TSSFab is a member on here I think and sells these for $505/set too. How much are you expecting the swedged tubing + joints + spacers to end up costing?
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czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 11:48AM
Here's the parts list. I may consider welding a big nut or something around the tube incase the threads get a little gritty. Only negative about them is they dont have a flat spot to get a wrench on. Lat links don't have the sway bar mount.


Length will be determined by the lat link length minus probably 3" for the length taking by the heim joints.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html


Joints LH and RH:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Rod-End-3-4-16-LH-Male,29391.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Male,29437.html



Cost
$80 8x Joints
$40 4x Tubes
$4 4x jam nuts
$? Spacers

Stronger and cheaper than the aluminum STI ones. The joints aren't super top quality, but chris said he's been running cheapers for a long time without issue.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2014 11:54AM by czwalga.
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sidewaez
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 11:59AM
Steven at work will want a set of spacers for his open lite car.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
January 30, 2014 03:39PM
Quote
czwalga
Here's the parts list. I may consider welding a big nut or something around the tube incase the threads get a little gritty. Only negative about them is they dont have a flat spot to get a wrench on. Lat links don't have the sway bar mount.


Length will be determined by the lat link length minus probably 3" for the length taking by the heim joints.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html


Joints LH and RH:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Rod-End-3-4-16-LH-Male,29391.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Male,29437.html



Cost
$80 8x Joints
$40 4x Tubes
$4 4x jam nuts
$? Spacers

Stronger and cheaper than the aluminum STI ones. The joints aren't super top quality, but chris said he's been running cheapers for a long time without issue.

I'll bet they were mid-priced maybe 16-17 bucks each..you don't wanna start with slop..



John Vanlandingham
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TronDD
Tim Meunier
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 02, 2014 07:12PM
I ended up with the joints from Phelps Racing on ebay. 3/4" Chromoly for $105 for 8.

The Swedged tubes from Coleman Racing and spacers from William at TSS. Got an extra 2 tubes and set of spacer to have a spare "side". Need to get 4 more joints still, though.

Then the snow came, so I still have to modify the bracket on the car for 14mm bolts. Makes all the connections the same size with all the same parts (except the damn long bolt on the knuckle).

Tim.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 02, 2014 07:35PM
Quote
TronDD


and spacers from William at TSS. Got an extra 2 tubes and set of spacer to have a spare "side"..

Tim.


Yet another part that I make for somebody, they copy, undercut and fuck it up for the next guy. And take money right out of my pocket.
I was going to post my samples and nice cad drawing are on the desk at the machine shop and was going to work out a price but, why fuckin bother.



John Vanlandingham
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czwalga
steve czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 03, 2014 06:57AM
Because other people may want to buy them? Like I said people are more likely to buy something that is available, waiting around trying to get 5 other people who don't even have running rally cars to commit on something they may need in the future is just a pain in the ass. I understand low production runs cost more $, but if you just made a bunch of them and slightly advertise them as you have them in stock you would most likely sell a lot more. Just my opinion.

Figure out the prices and how many you need to make to make it effective, let me know we'll work something out.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2014 06:59AM by czwalga.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 03, 2014 09:38AM
Quote
czwalga
Because other people may want to buy them? Like I said people are more likely to buy something that is available, waiting around trying to get 5 other people who don't even have running rally cars to commit on something they may need in the future is just a pain in the ass. I understand low production runs cost more $, but if you just made a bunch of them and slightly advertise them as you have them in stock you would most likely sell a lot more. Just my opinion.

Figure out the prices and how many you need to make to make it effective, let me know we'll work something out.

I have some of some sizes can't remember just now the widths but some but look, seriously there are a lot of dreamers and wankers and flakes out there.. And as we have seen its risky to invest time and effort in some part when thwere are so many people who never have seen something or had an idea of the own who are ready to grab somebody else's idea and run..and as bad brag and take credit for it, stealing future sales.

I don't need to sit on a bunch of stuff for Subies or Xratty---if fact I made the original width same as front bush for Xratty and to get the numbers up used that width for 4 link junk on Volvos and Toyotas (who would listen).

(Lookie. I have these damn things left over and stainless steel and machine shop time cost money....I can't pay for mortgage of entry fees with dumb stainless spacers no matter how cool they are---they gotta sell.)


So work done to order if people want a good price.



John Vanlandingham
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czwalga
steve czwalga
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 03, 2014 05:14PM
John,

Trying to get some support on facebook, but people want at least a ball park on price. If you could come up with rough numbers. If you make x amount vs xx amount. PM me.
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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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Re: Subie rear suspension questions
February 03, 2014 06:05PM
Quote
czwalga
John,

Trying to get some support on facebook, but people want at least a ball park on price. If you could come up with rough numbers. If you make x amount vs xx amount. PM me.

OK. I have in mind from previous that somewhere around $8 each in stainless.



John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
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