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Mustang or ....

Posted by RnJ 
RnJ
Ryan Johnson
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Location: Sand Burr, Mn
Join Date: 09/17/2013
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RnJ
Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 12:46PM
Got an old half assed drag 84 mustang sitting here that I need to do something with.

What's the general opinion on these for playing on the stages? Might not turn the best, but it seems like stages are getting straighter and that's what they're good at.

Anybody ever run a manual valve body C4 on stage? Has a transbrake for digging ditches on the launch. Also have a T5 I could put in, but that thing shifts like my old john deere.

Has an 8.8 4.10 posi with drums. Stock rear suspension setup. Switch to the 9" or just get rid of the drums?

With aluminum headed 302 and the tubular k member that are in it, is it still much more nose heavy than a 2.3 turbo?


Or should I part that thing and build one of my starlets with the 3tc turbo?
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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 01:43PM
Quote

Got an old half assed drag 84 mustang sitting here that I need to do something with.

What's the general opinion on these for playing on the stages? Might not turn the best, but it seems like stages are getting straighter and that's what they're good at.

The basoc layout of the car looks what i call "pretty OK, not bad"
And I maintain we don't need "perfect' we need "pretty good".
And with just a little work and a little stiffening--and current required cages add a LOT of stiffeneing---the cars can do fine--ie be limited my the driver.

Quote

Anybody ever run a manual valve body C4 on stage?

Probably not.. Bill Holmes in his moster Frod Pickup ran some auto-tragic but who knows and it was built..
I doubt there would be any advantage to a auto tragic...and I think a C4 is just a tarted up C3 and I am familiar some with how crappy those are. (The come in autotragic Xratties, wifey car has one..ugh)



Quote

Has a transbrake for digging ditches on the launch. Also have a T5 I could put in, but that thing shifts like my old john deere.

If you're T5 shift shitty its that T5, they shift just hunky dory fine if they're not whooped to death tired.

Quote

Has an 8.8 4.10 posi with drums. Stock rear suspension setup. Switch to the 9" or just get rid of the drums?

First the 8.8 is fine, get a spool or shim the hell out of the LSD.
And yeah dump the drums. Final drive, well that depends on the motor.
And the tires, we tend to have tires an inch or inch and a half larger overall diameter that popular little low profile things so we tend to get shorter to compensate for that and then lower for the way loose surface sucks power and mainly for trading top speed for better acelleration in 3rd and 4th.
4.3 is not really too short...and depending on which T5 you have and which first gear 4.3 can still get you just over 40-42mph

And yeah get some discs and calipers...make sure the caliper piston is at least 1.5"

Quote

With aluminum headed 302 and the tubular k member that are in it, is it still much more nose heavy than a 2.3 turbo?

Yeah regardless of all the absurd claims we see forever its still a couple of hundred pounds heavier---and the way V8 deliver power is all wrong when you have just 2wd..Our job is to move forwards, not downwards.
And on gravel with 2wd there's no point in HP beyond 220--230, you just gnaw thru tires easier.


Quote

Or should I part that thing and build one of my starlets with the 3tc turbo?

As much as i like Starlets and the insane fun little motor---and was just this morning talking to a guy who has a nasty one built for his Toyota KE whatever---there's no obvious advantage to a little Starlet..and those faster roads makes the short wheelbase nimbleness in high speed twitchiness and instability..where a Moose-angst with 100.5" wheelbase is pretty good--clear advantage.

Only disadvantage I see is short travel suspension but that's easy to cure, and a general weakness in shell--but everything modern is as well so weld@



John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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CALL +1 206 431-9696
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TylerEstes
Tyler Estes
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 04:10PM
Quote
john vanlandingham
there's no obvious advantage to a little Starlet..


And? I realize that the 240, Xratty, and Golf are probably your three best bets. As you say quite often. But it's nice to see some variety and some people driving cool stuff. E30's. Mustangs. Starlets. Mantas. Corvettes. Beetles. Whatever.

The whole rally situation is pretty fucked. That's why I'm out. Probably for a long while. I say the dude should just build something he likes and he thinks is cool. It's not like more than 5% of rally projects ever see the stage, anyway.



Why do you even need brakes? Are you some sort of pansy or something?
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RnJ
Ryan Johnson
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RnJ
Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 04:26PM
Quote
TylerEstes
Quote
john vanlandingham
there's no obvious advantage to a little Starlet..

The whole rally situation is pretty fucked. That's why I'm out. Probably for a long while. I say the dude should just build something he likes and he thinks is cool.
It's not like more than 5% of rally projects ever see the stage, anyway.

That's the problem with the Starlets. I actually do like them, and you can not like your rally car. It really is the long brutal end to any car.

....Been out of the game for awhile, but built and raced several of my own cars, serviced and codrove for lots of others.
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RnJ
Ryan Johnson
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RnJ
Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 04:31PM
If I build that stang, I could sing this to Carl and the blue crew



]
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heymagic
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 05:46PM
C4 isn't the worst trannie in the world and an AT is used in lots of off road vehicles. The car will need some stiffening to be really fast and reliable but it will be plenty quick in a regional event as is. If I were building another car it would be a Mustang as first choice just because.
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Carl S
Carl Seidel
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 06:21PM
This is what Mike Hurst had to say on this topic, from here: http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?47530-Any-Fox-body-guys-on-the-forum

Quote
Mike Hurst
I built the "mayhem" car, and ran it for several years before Mark bought it..often it was the fastest 2wd car when entered. I have sent this info before to others:

Strength-wise, the fox unibodies are pretty bad.

The strut towers must be reinforced and tied to the firewall or cage
The area where the "frame rail" portion of the underhood unibody terminates at the firewall must be reinforced with outriggers from the cage
The upper rear suspension mounts must be reinforced by outriggers from the main hoop, bolted though.
The lower rear suspension "torque boxes" must be reinforced by outriggers from the cage or weld-in subframe connectors, or both

Even with this all done, and the 351W based engine that added 100lbs over the 5.0, the car weighed about the same as an SP Subaru.

If I had to do it over again, I would have stuck with the 5.0 based engine at about 375HP instead of the larger, heavier engine at 440HP.

Front suspension: Stock V8 front springs on the stock front arms with hard bushings and good moog ball joints. 12" 200lb coilover springs on $100 KYB adjustable struts, (yes, 4 front springs) and a 4cyl front sway bar.

The rear suspension was stock geometry, the key was some trick experimental upper axle bushings from Ford. The were cast rubber instead of pressed. The OE pressed ones last about one stage, and the aftermarket hard bushings don't have enough give for what theses arms must do, and everything will break with hard bushings. For lower arms, I used drag race parts that had hard bushings on the axle end and heims on the body end. There was no axle hop with this set-up, but there was quite a bit with the stock parts.

The rear shocks were $60 Afco street-stock oval track shocks, with monroe replacement "traction shocks", cut down moog cargo-coil springs from the little LTD (Fox body) wagon, no rear sway bar.

I used Lincoln Mk7 front brakes and master cylinder, and Thunderbird turbo coupe rear rotors with GM metric RWD A-body front calipers on the rear with afco brackets and a pressure limiting bias control, and an AFCO "torpedo" master cylinder for the handbrake. The entire rear brake set-up cost $150 using new or factory rebuilt parts.

I used 215 75/15 light truck tires on the stock 15x7 wheels, a world class t5 with a 4.10 final drive and the stock 8.8LSD shimmed up tight. The key to keeping the t5 from breaking is gearing the car short enough to spend most of your time in 4th gear, where the torque is not passing through a gearset.

Mark switched to a stronger transmission, 3.73 gear and smaller rear (87 Thunderbird TC)calipers.

In general the car is a pig, and no-amount of lipstick will change that, what's worse than the limited suspension travel and horrible weight bias is the lack of steering lock (the front wheels don't turn very far left or right)...but it's a really fun cheap, fast pig.... in a straight line.

Yay Rubberbandits!
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aj_johnson
A.J. Johnson
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88 Audi 80


Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 06:44PM
Side note-

John, call me weird, I dont understand the fascination with a long first gear... I've never had a trans that liked to shift 2-1 does the t5 miraculously like that shift?
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starion887
starion887
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 07:00PM
^^^ If you mean a numerically low 1st gear, that answer is easy. It makes the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts closer and it makes the car perform flat out a lot better as the wheel torque drops in each higher gear. If you ever rallied with modest HP and a crappy 2-3 (wide) shift ratio, the answer becomes obvious after just a few stages: the wheel torque drops a LOT when going to 3rd, just when the wind resistance in the 40-60 mph range is building up seriously. A steep 1st gear (numerically high) tends to be almost useless on the tightest turns, moreso with a steep rear gear; and you only launch from a dead stop into a stage once where a steep gear does you any good.... Mark B.
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heymagic
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 07:38PM
Not sure 2-3 is affected by the 1st gear ratio but Mark is 100% on the mark..(groan). Traditional Japanese gearing gives you a near useless first gear when the final drive is 4.5 or greater. You take off, roll a few feet and grab 2nd. 2nd is a bit high to take off in. Sometimes you'll come into a hairpin/accute corner and bog in 2nd but 1st is way low to maintain speed. My last couple of Nissans had a dog leg 5spd with 1st gear being out. 2nd thru 5th was the normal H pattern and worked very well but a taller 1st would have been awesome. Toyota was friendlier than Nissan or Mazda on the 2-3 ratios if memory serves.
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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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Saab 96 V4



Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 08:22PM
Quote
RnJ
Quote
TylerEstes
Quote
john vanlandingham
there's no obvious advantage to a little Starlet..

The whole rally situation is pretty fucked. That's why I'm out. Probably for a long while. I say the dude should just build something he likes and he thinks is cool.
It's not like more than 5% of rally projects ever see the stage, anyway.

That's the problem with the Starlets. I actually do like them, and you can not like your rally car. It really is the long brutal end to any car.

....Been out of the game for awhile, but built and raced several of my own cars, serviced and codrove for lots of others.

OK good but who are you?
You notice that nearly 99,9% of the people here have their real names up in either that sidebar thing over to the left or in the signature? And notice they also have their real location? Not "Misery" but "Bumfuck, Misery"
Well thats cause that's about the only rule...
Somewhere there's a "Read this first, Noob" thing, read it.

And of course anything can work--read that "with enough money and time spent, anything eventually can be made to work"..

But the sport has changed, most involved aren't mechanics and less can do fabrication work, so that means a lot of easy mods that can make cars a lot more fun are now considered waaaaaaaaaaaaay complicated.
Starlet, Mustang whatever you do the same things just scaled up or down as needed...Mod the shell once then its fun forever.



John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
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aj_johnson
A.J. Johnson
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88 Audi 80


Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 08:45PM
Quote
heymagic
Not sure 2-3 is affected by the 1st gear ratio but Mark is 100% on the mark..(groan). Traditional Japanese gearing gives you a near useless first gear when the final drive is 4.5 or greater. You take off, roll a few feet and grab 2nd. 2nd is a bit high to take off in. Sometimes you'll come into a hairpin/accute corner and bog in 2nd but 1st is way low to maintain speed. My last couple of Nissans had a dog leg 5spd with 1st gear being out. 2nd thru 5th was the normal H pattern and worked very well but a taller 1st would have been awesome. Toyota was friendlier than Nissan or Mazda on the 2-3 ratios if memory serves.

So you are still using first for the most part only for the start. You are trying to maintain a usable 1st for starts but make the 2nd-3rd-4th more friendly for the rest of the stage.

I guess I get confused every time I see "1st gear good to 40mph" and I assume that for any 25-30 mph corners you might actually use 1st. I've never owned a car that liked to shift back into 1st after it was going much over 10-15 mph and was assuming that the T5 somehow made that shift possible at higher speeds.
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aj_johnson
A.J. Johnson
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88 Audi 80


Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 08:49PM
Quote
starion887
^^^ If you mean a numerically low 1st gear, that answer is easy. It makes the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts closer and it makes the car perform flat out a lot better as the wheel torque drops in each higher gear. If you ever rallied with modest HP and a crappy 2-3 (wide) shift ratio, the answer becomes obvious after just a few stages: the wheel torque drops a LOT when going to 3rd, just when the wind resistance in the 40-60 mph range is building up seriously. A steep 1st gear (numerically high) tends to be almost useless on the tightest turns, moreso with a steep rear gear; and you only launch from a dead stop into a stage once where a steep gear does you any good.... Mark B.

I understand the appeal of good 2-3-4 but cannot fathom shifting to 1st once you are moving. Its the MPH ratings thrown in that are confusing me. if 1 is good to 40 and 2 is good to 55 it would seem that you would have to use 1st or bog 2nd. I've just never personally owned or known a trans that liked to shift into 1st.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2013 08:49PM by aj_johnson.
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heymagic
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 17, 2013 11:09PM
Bring up the revs and be a man about it. 1st gear downshits require a bit of finesse in some trannies. Try a different gear lube also. Some trans like Motul others Redline or good old 10/40 motor oil. I usually ran a 4.86 or 5.13 ish gear, 13 or 14 inch tires and rarely had to use first after takeoff.
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darkknight9
Kirk Coughlin
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Re: Mustang or ....
September 18, 2013 12:24AM
Love watching the rooster tails go by....



Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.
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