Rx-7 Rally Car v3.0!

that is already in the works Jon! i am thinking about raising my front towers as much as i can with some angle to help with the caster wear on the strut plate bearings.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Quote
Gravity Fed
pics of the various things!

These here.

I have oft wondered - is something like this durable-enough for teh gravels? I ask, as I have seen "cheap" ones come completely unglued on asphalt auto-cross-ey typee situations. Not that I am callling these "cheap" - but they DO seem somewhat "delicate". Light & Airey, an' all that.

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Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

I am:
I know:
I am from:

Nobody.
Nothing.
Nowhere.

Quote
Creech

Quote
Gravity Fed
pics of the various things!

These here.

I have oft wondered - is something like this durable-enough for teh gravels? I ask, as I have seen "cheap" ones come completely unglued on asphalt auto-cross-ey typee situations. Not that I am callling these "cheap" - but they DO seem somewhat "delicate". Light & Airey, an' all that.

I hope that Alex posts the bearing ID...and the gap in the lower plate..

Industry standard being 22mm and thats .866" and I make my top ounts the much easier to find and less expensive .875" aka 7/8" I know that size can develop audiable rattles fairly rapidly, I cannot imagine some puny 5/8" or whatever lasting long.

Knowing the gap would mean one could plan for a contingency of making just the bearing holder deal in a more realistic size.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I see what you are saying about the bearing, John. But I was wondering about the mount itself - does something like this (say, with the 7/8" ID bearing) last a considerable time?

I have seen something a friend of mine had a few years back, that was essentially a round anodised aluminium disc with the bearing mounted-eccentric, and a series of holes drilled and tapped in a bit from the disc perimeter. Presumably made to "clock" the top of the strut for caster and camber. Rotating the disc to the "next set of holes" would change the position of the top mount in relation to the bottom, and allowing simultaneous adjustment of both caster and camber.

Seemed simple and durable - one moving part (the bearing), and plenty thick-enough to take a bit of beating (if the material itself could handle such), whilst still thin-enough not to take up excess headspace above the strut. Granted, this was for Autocross, and getting the top of the strut as near to the top of the fender as possible helped a lot (the car was lowered drastically).

---

Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

I am:
I know:
I am from:

Nobody.
Nothing.
Nowhere.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2014 10:10PM by Creech.

Quote
Creech
I see what you are saying about the bearing, John. But I was wondering about the mount itself - does something like this (say, with the 7/8" ID bearing) last a considerable time?

I have seen something a friend of mine had a few years back, that was essentially a round anodised aluminium disc with the bearing mounted-eccentric, and a series of holes drilled and tapped in a bit from the disc perimeter. Presumably made to "clock" the top of the strut for caster and camber. Rotating the disc to the "next set of holes" would change the position of the top mount in relation to the bottom, and allowing simultaneous adjustment of both caster and camber.

Seemed simple and durable - one moving part (the bearing), and plenty thick-enough to take a bit of beating (if the material itself could handle such), whilst still thin-enough not to take up excess headspace above the strut. Granted, this was for Autocross, and getting the top of the strut as near to the top of the fender as possible helped a lot (the car was lowered drastically).

I just made some for Dave Kern---remember Dave Kern?--- with 3 times 5 alternate holes and a offset bearing, and a fat flange....No idea if they work cause he's busy doing who knows what...

But Alex has his head on straight....well within his madness of lurvin then RX7s..fawkit ya know what I mean.
If its poo-poo it'll get replaced.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

well the OE tops lasted a little while. Those are just rubber and thin weenie metal. I wound up tearing the rubber out with 6 degrees of caster I have.

the bearing is held with a snap ring and was interference fit (frozen and then placed, might not be the right term)

bearing ID is like 5/8". the 15mm spacer i have is paper thing to snug the bilstein into it.

And like John said, if they do break, they will get replaced.

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

OK.

But to clarify; I was not asking, as to call-into question whether or not these would be right for you. I was asking, as in to call-into question as to whether or not these would be right for ME. Or as in, "What is the BEST for the LEAST $$"?

I don't WANT to put something like this on, then find out if it breaks later. Then throw more money at it. Providence Knows that I do that enough as it is.

It was a real-life-ey typ-ee question, not snark or "Ima think those things are JUNK - yous should buy Ground-up Control or K-Splort, Yo!"

I thought someone might say something like "I put those mounts on the car, they lasted for 3 races and the right side cracked, and then I lost three bolts out of the left." Or "I didn't have a lick of trouble with that type mount. 'Til after the crash...."




BTW, I forgot to say "I dig on the RX-7". I have a close friend of mine that is a Gen I 7-Nut (actually, something like 3 or 4 friends, now that I think of it - are you guys Contagious?); he has something like a half-dozen of the things, if you were to drag out all his parts and bolt 'em together, anyway.

---

Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

I am:
I know:
I am from:

Nobody.
Nothing.
Nowhere.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2014 01:12AM by Creech.

well once i have the chance to pound on them, we shall find out! they did say they had a car in some barbados rally that used them, but that is kinda like some Nigerian prince dying and leaving me his estate.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Looks good Alex! Mine is getting close to going on the ground for some dirty cone dodging this season. With some luck and elbow grease I'll be driving, and breaking things on it in a month!

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"The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know and have so much more to learn." - Claude Rouelle, Optimum G lecture June, 2011

i think i am going to sacrifice my GSLSEFC to make the rally car run.

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

more progress

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

any idea how to go about making something like this? modding the factory LCA to something that isn't a rubbery binding mess.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

same control arms as these, right?


Looks like the bushing is held on by a bolt, meaning pretty much all the forces at that point of the arm are supported by that bolt?

I imagine it would be simple enough to carve up some spacers to adapt that bolt to the ID of a spherical, and a little tombstone-shaped block to hold said spherical.

http://kingpinmachine.com/ would probably turn out a set for you, although it'll probably be $$$. He might be willing to offer advice if you want to DIY it though.

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Quote
Aaron Luptak


http://kingpinmachine.com/ would probably turn out a set for you, although it'll probably be $$$. He might be willing to offer advice if you want to DIY it though.

Aaron when you see bullshit like this:

Quote

Pressing bushings out of control arms is generally a dangerous process that requires specialized equipment. We have already created fixtures and dies to hold suspension components in place while applying the immense pressure needed to press out stock bushings. We have the proper assembly tools such as a hydraulic-electric press, an arbor press, welding tools, retaining tools and products etc. and just as importantly the experience to do the job right.
Finally, we are hopeless perfectionists.

Come on, don't you know to run away?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

AWR used to just do the modifications but event hat was about 300 for the set. If i can get these arms moving freely, then my droop will be greatly improved

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023