NEWB with a half built shell! HELP!

Hi!
I'm building a '98 Impreza 2.5RS, and the bearings I have (new straight from a box, stuffed with new grease(tapered roller)) don't like the factory torque-spec. At all.

In fact, the wheels don't turn at 30'lbs without a breaker bar...
My apprentiship instructor is also stumped...

Help me Rally Anarchy, You're my only hope...

what procedure did you follow to torque? the rx7 bearings have a torque to X then loosen Y fraction of a turn.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
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Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Make sure the race is fully seated. Front or rear?

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First rally 2013
Rally car type AWD subaru
Total rallies as driver 6
Total rally cars built 2
Total rally cars caged 3
Total rally cars repaired from offs 4
Total years racing exp other then rally 19 yrs
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I'm using Collisions AllData's shop manual, and I talked to Subaru, they have the same specs and procedure. There is a TSB, but it only says the procedure has changed not what it changed to...

rear wheels. The same on both sides. I think that the missing TSB info is the key. But I have no idea what it says.

Which bearings... be more clear on what exactly you did and whats happening.

The bearings are SKF GRW175. The procedure is to press them in, then press in the hub, and torque to 160'lbs. At that torque, nothing moves. I can turn the hub by hanging on a pry bar. Even with way less torque it's very hard to turn.

Nothing weird about installing those. There are 2 inner grease seals on each side (total of 4). Seems like one of those can be installed backwards and will cause a rub like you describe.

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czwalga
Which bearings... be more clear on what exactly you did and whats happening.

But we were all there when he started! you dont remember? it was the bearing for the muffler clamp.

Are those the bearings that are sealed and don't require repacking with grease nor the use of the dust seals? I know on Amazon it lists them as "Rear Wheel Bearing - Sealed"
I know I did a set on an 01 Outback for a friend and the bearings he bought were a one piece sealed design. Perhaps you are duplicating a seal and crushing stuff?
Since you've already torqued it to 160 I'd take the halfshaft back out and visually inspect where it is crushing.

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Grant Hughes

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BJosephD

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czwalga
Which bearings... be more clear on what exactly you did and whats happening.

But we were all there when he started! you dont remember? it was the bearing for the muffler clamp.

Silly Subaru with their rotating mufflers!

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NoCoast
Are those the bearings that are sealed and don't require repacking with grease nor the use of the dust seals? I know on Amazon it lists them as "Rear Wheel Bearing - Sealed"
I know I did a set on an 01 Outback for a friend and the bearings he bought were a one piece sealed design. Perhaps you are duplicating a seal and crushing stuff?
Since you've already torqued it to 160 I'd take the halfshaft back out and visually inspect where it is crushing.

They weren't sealed, but had a light film of grease. I'll pull it apart today, and hopefully that will be clearer...

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Dmc
They weren't sealed, but had a light film of grease. I'll pull it apart today, and hopefully that will be clearer...

Somewhere on the internet said that a Subaru bulletin said to not add grease to them. Can't testify to the validity of that statement...

Found where I saw that easily enough...
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/rear-wheel-bearing-question-28026/

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Grant Hughes

Where is location "Terrace" in your profile?
Shouldn't be any big deal. Press out. Press in. Tighten. I've never tightened to any "spec" and never had any problem. Sounds like it may be the wrong part. You did take out the snap ring.

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Don Kennedy

The TSB simply states to not install the bearing/hub using a press.

Prodcedure is as follows:
Lift car, remove wheel.
Remove bitch bolt.
Remove outboard axle stub.
Remove caliper and rotor.
Remove hub, old seals, snap ring.
Press out old bearing race (dual taper).
Clean everything.
Lightly grease outer race of new bearing.
Press in (only contacting OUTER race) until bearing shell bottoms.
Install snap ring.
Install outboard seal.
Press hub into bearing, only pressing on INNER bearing race.
[Noting that plastic collar will slowly press out the back.]
Install inboard seals (x2)
Install axle stub.
Install bitch bolt. Torque to spec.
Install axle nut.
Install rotor and caliper. Torque caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts to spec.
Install wheel.
Set car down and torque lug nuts.
Torque axle nut to spec, then peen nut.

If you don't support the INNER race of the inboard tapered bearing when you install the hub, you'll end up pulling the inboard side bearing apart and or not seating the race fully. This will end up causing the bind you're talking about when you try to torque the nut to spec.

What the heck is the bitch bolt?

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Don Kennedy