My Galant VR4 build thread

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john vanlandingham


The big thing which creates a problem is that big fat pin on the arm in single shear...

Can you post up a close up of the mount area.
It LOOKS like the basic thing is a welded up part. If we can weld once on the arm and then forever have easy replacement shock straight outta the box, then it is a worthwhile mod..

KnowwhatImeanVern?

John, can you post a picture of what type of Mount you mean by straight out of the box?

update...

I'm currently overseas; surprised, don't be because I'm always fucking gone.

But, 3 days before I left, I went to my old house (former room-mate's place) where I used to live to pick up the last couple things I hadn't yet moved; a spare engine block, ratchet straps, randomness, and the Gaylant.

As I open the door to the garage, I'm smacked in the face - physically - by an insane heat, and equally impossible humidity. I'm talking heat and humidity that Africans in the shittiest parts of Africa can't even dream of. Water drips down on me as I regain myself and step into the garage. I could go on, but I shan't.

Anyone who's experienced it, likely already knows, but what had happened was the water heater blew up. It was in 1 piece... so, not literally, but a safety valve must have surpassed it's limits and steamed the place.

Super bummed to see the results, but... aside from a huge, huge, pain in the ass it's got to be mostly cosmetic. The car started and drove. Honestly, worse than the surface rust on all exposed metal, was the mold that grew on everything else. what a mess

there's ups and there's downs through life. and to prove it, we also got this kickass puppy.

She's an Australian Shepherd, which is apparently an American breed.

Cutie puppy piccies!!!

Need more!

Where are you overseas? Whacher doing? making boo-koo dollares?
How long you kickin' back living high on the hog?

Who is taking care of the puppy while your gone?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

answers to those questions since the last we talked? it's all changed, haha.

No buku dollars, I'm still active duty. When I get home, likely in December, i'll be starting to prep to separate. Too many promises of much greener grass on the outside, and, possibly having a say in my schedule. You know, FREEDOM

I got married earlier this year. That's been great. And, to top that off right before I left we found out we have a baby on the way.

Probably inferred, but the wife is dealing with the puppy. Apparently, 24/7 she wants to fetch. when I left she hadn't learned to even play like a dog yet.

2015>2016 is obviously big for me. Moved, married, puppy, baby, and if all that's not enough deciding to take the chance on losing economic stability and getting out of the Air Force. But I feel confident, becuase the last change since I was here last is my Age is now "Settling Down", so clearly I have everything under control now.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Cutie puppy piccies!!!

Need more!

ask and you shall receive.

showed my girls--and my cat..See kitty, that's a cute puppy....
Thanks

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Looking for some advice.


I'm sanding the cage to get rid of the surface rust from the water heater disaster. I can't decide how far to go.

I've attached photos showing untouched rust, hand sanded rust, and spots I used power tools to sand (basically grind) through.

To my surprise, due to tubing being a constant curve, the hand sanding is way way way faster, but only goes 90% of the way add the power tools.

I've got por15, which says it likes some rust to adhere to, and I'm thinking maybe the hand sanding is best since it leaves a little pitting and ruff surface, compared to the power tools leaving shiny fresh metal.

Has anyone dealt with this shit before? Should I get down to pure fresh metal or just knock everything off the surface by hand and have this done in like 1/10th the time?

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/mastercoat-metal-prep/

Cheap and easy to apply with spray bottle --- A real respirator, goggles and gloves is absolutely necessary as this is basically phosphoric acid plus zinc and no one wants scarred lungs. Bought a gallon 15 years ago and use it on every rusted thing before paint or for storage of bare metal bits.

FWIW,the MasterSeries coatings are generally cheaper and superior to the POR stuff IMHO. particularly their sealer primer coat in silver that can be used as the only coat if desired in wheelwells, floors, etc.

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Thanks for the reply, but I think you accidently avoided my main question on how much "physical" prep I need to do. I've seen the liquid prep materials, that supposedly etch the metal and help destroy hidden rust.

I'll check out the links, and probably buy the prep you mentioned. I don't have a spray gun, but I have my military issued MOPP4 Chem suit and gas mask, so I can apply anything- phosphoric acid, anyhrax, nuclear fallout...

I should have followed the link first.

Looks like it's saying it'll disolve the rust I have. I'll order that stuff and see how it goes.

Still going to knock this cage down by hand for the dusting of stuff that's just falling off

Over half done, pretty quick work going the 90% route with sand paper.

I already ordered that metal prep you linked. I have high hopes for it; I'm thinking quick and effective for hard to reach spots.

So thinking I may grind the welds back to shiny

DO NOT gring the welds!

tech inspector really dont like it, and for good reason, leave that meat on there. Wire brush and maybe wire brush for 4 inch grinder

Quote
alkun
DO NOT gring the welds!

tech inspector really dont like it, and for good reason, leave that meat on there. Wire brush and maybe wire brush for 4 inch grinder

I meant a grinder with a flapper wheel of sand paper. But, knowing that, I'll be extra sure to leave all the dimes in the bead so the welds are clear

No spray gun needed, just a spray bottle like a Windex bottle. Quick and easy, I think between the hand sanding and the etching, it will be great so long as you coat it with good paint like you are already planning.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf