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K-sport hand brake issues

Posted by MarkHille 
MarkHille
Mark Hille
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Location: The hills of CT
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I have two crap boxes


Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 21, 2014 09:55AM
Just to add a little clarity:

The problem with MY k-sport wasn't poor craftsmanshit, it was in the design of the master. It looks similar to this one:



If you notice there is a yellow circle around the front seal. The problem is that when you apply pressure from the inlet side and also from the piston you get a certain amount of pressure at the outlet side. When you remove pressure from the inlet side the pressure from the outlet side forces that seal to remain sealed and you get higher pressure (not as high as it once was because you have let off the piston) still remaining on the outlet side keeping the rear brakes on. When you apply the brake pedal again, it brakes the seal in the yellow circle and allows the pressure to equalize until the next time you push the pedal and pull the handbrake at the same time. If you have a master with this design and you don't experience this problem it is because your seal isn't 100% and the pressure is allowed to equalize and release the seal. This also causes a low pedal as when you pull the handbrake it allows some fluid past this point that the main master has to overcome at some point. But if it is only a small amount it is hardly noticeable and is much preferred over the sticking rear calipers. Or you may also just never notice that the brake is sticking.

One solution to the sticking problem would be to create some sort of very small bleed from the inlet side of the seal to the outlet side of the seal. You could drill a .013" hole and place a .012" stainless steal wire in the hole where the blue mark in the yellow circle is. That would in theory be enough to bleed off a small enough amount of fluid so that the handbrake would still work properly but it wouldn't hold pressure locking the seal in place. Of course this would mean that the handbrake would no longer be able to be used as a parking brake because the pressure would be lowering over time and the brakes would eventually disengage. This is not recommended because the rules state you need a working parking brake although I don't know how many of these hydraulic handbrakes would work as a parking brake anyway.
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NoCoast
Grant Hughes
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 21, 2014 11:01AM
I have seen plenty of rally cars rolled into something in front of or behind them because the hydraulic handbrake will never hold that pressure forever and it will start to slide.
I still contest that this isn't really an issue in real world applications, though you can easily solve it by just spending more money if it really bothers you.



Grant Hughes
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brown87
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 06:14AM
visit amazon.com
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A1337STI
Alex Rademacher
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 12:59PM
I just don't get the obsession with hydraulic hand brakes. Rallies in the south west don't really have hair pins. (I've seen 1 tight true hair pin out of 8 or so different events)

Then again i'm the guy who won't paint his car, get my name on my driving suit, etc.

wouldn't having adjustable brake bias (front to rear) in real time be a lot more helpful ? and even negate the need for one?

like Oh i'm coming up to the 1 hair pin in this entire rally, i'll dial my brake bias to be max rear, take the corner, and set it back to normal(ish) ?

also wouldn't it be cheaper?

(not trying to Rag on the OP ) smiling smiley
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aj_johnson
A.J. Johnson
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 02:15PM
The Handbrake is a live action brake bias adjustment. And a lot easier to find than a little spinning knob.

I got mine from levelride concepts over in portland. Really nice little unit, supposedly they have one that incorporates a switch for launch control into the design. Units run about 200 with willwood master.
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Aaron Luptak
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 02:49PM
Quote
aj_johnson
I got mine from levelride concepts over in portland..



why oh why would you make a custom little sheet metal bracket, and not bother to make it actually fit the master cylinder, and just hang it off the back with bolts and spacers instead?

(I suppose it's better than a stack of washers...)




personally, I was thinking of getting the ASD one (http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.com/ASD-Universal-Hydraulic-E-Brake-16-Pull-Back_p_51.html), but now that I look closely, it's just a wilwood clutch pedal (http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-1289/10002/-1?parentProductId=744524) with a slick handle.



KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com
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KTurner
Kevin Turner
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 07:29PM
Quote
Aaron Luptak
but now that I look closely, it's just a wilwood clutch pedal (http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-1289/10002/-1?parentProductId=744524) with a slick handle.

that's how I made mine. this one's cheaper: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-52992



-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.
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aj_johnson
A.J. Johnson
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 25, 2014 08:28PM
Looking at mine you can probably get rid of spacers. But space is tight. Probably why spacers were added. I have no issues with the construction.
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MarkHille
Mark Hille
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Location: The hills of CT
Join Date: 10/04/2011
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I have two crap boxes


Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 28, 2014 08:12AM
Quote
A1337STI
I just don't get the obsession with hydraulic hand brakes. Rallies in the south west don't really have hair pins. (I've seen 1 tight true hair pin out of 8 or so different events)

Then again i'm the guy who won't paint his car, get my name on my driving suit, etc.

wouldn't having adjustable brake bias (front to rear) in real time be a lot more helpful ? and even negate the need for one?

like Oh i'm coming up to the 1 hair pin in this entire rally, i'll dial my brake bias to be max rear, take the corner, and set it back to normal(ish) ?

also wouldn't it be cheaper?

(not trying to Rag on the OP ) smiling smiley


I'm not offended. I think there are legitimate reasons to put a hydraulic handbrake in a rally car. My reasons include:

-The stock parking brake didn't really work. It made noise and would drag the brake a bit but wouldn't keep the car from rolling on a hill.
-When I put wilwood calipers on they didn't come with an option to hook the stock or any parking brake cable to them.
-The k-sport brake actually has a little bar that will lock the lever in position keeping the handbrake on. Its only a matter of how long it will hold pressure for.
-I love pulling the hand brake.
-I want to be a drift king.

I started this because I didn't know what was going on and didn't really like the fact that I could have my rear calipers dragging and not realize it.
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NoCoast
Grant Hughes
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 28, 2014 10:29AM
I helped a local rallyist swap a rear upright this weekend. Easily the biggest pain and time consuming part was removing the parking brake cable and disassembly and reassembly of the drum brakes.

So here's a few benefits of a hydraulic handbrake.
1. No disassembly of parking brake to swap a rear upright. Could prevent a penalty in service. We swapped and upright in Parc Expose at 100AW this year. Without parking brake stuff it's relatively easy.
2. Less unsprung weight - Not much but you do get to lose the shoes and parking brake internals.
3. Less rotational mass - Again not much but you also get to remove the ABS trigger wheels. Sure, that has nothing to do with the parking brakes but I don't care. smiling smiley



Grant Hughes
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A1337STI
Alex Rademacher
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Re: K-sport hand brake issues
July 29, 2014 11:41AM
the more i know! smiling smiley really good insight here
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