Volvo rear suspension options

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john vanlandingham
Or the simplest, a tube:

You like this car don't you? I probably should of shared this a month ago haha.

Okay, I have to talk to some people with space and tools and see if I can work something out.


John, Clutch bits arrived. I saw your email asking about the flywheel, Did you get my response?
And subsequent question about the trans mount?

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Enablers, All of you.

what diameter tube?

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
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Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Quote
Gravity Fed
what diameter tube?

5-6"

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I got lucky and the metal market here had 6inch tube x 1/8th wall. cost me 60$ for 2.5 feet. I dont know around your area but here it would have most likely been an order in item. For the sides it's probably overkill but honestly am I going to notice the couple lb's less a thinner wall thickness would be? Nope. Also being 1/8th wall I could possibly weld the cage straight to it and it would meet the fia mounting plate requirements.

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Eric Ewert
I got lucky and the metal market here had 6inch tube x 1/8th wall. cost me 60$ for 2.5 feet. I dont know around your area but here it would have most likely been an order in item. For the sides it's probably overkill but honestly am I going to notice the couple lb's less a thinner wall thickness would be? Nope. Also being 1/8th wall I could possibly weld the cage straight to it and it would meet the fia mounting plate requirements.

Grasshopper, its worthwhile to recount your and mine dialog about this because its a good example of how we learn and adjust....right?
I said to make an omega shaped thing we wanted to find someting between 2mm to 2.2mm or 080-090 thick "Because then we can hand it over a table and hammer out the shape".. Then it transpire that you could quickly and easily find something that wall thickness, neither exhaust tube or driveshaft tube.....and you found this and you asked " Can we just do the towers as tubes?"

And I then said "Open the trunk of any Fiat 124 Sport Coupe and you'll see tubes sticking up"

So we have 'bwilliant ideers' but we oughtter be able to think and revise.
Maybe you do a formed and punched gusset from the top over to the car just under the window...Something simple like we did on Xratties---copying from Escort Cosworth


Easy huh?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

here is some details from some wierdo website...

http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,11063,page=1

One thing to do differently than pictured: You should NOT cut the wheel tubs like I did, the shocks fit inside of the wells, and the cutting them weakens the car.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2014 07:41PM by alkun.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Eric Ewert
I got lucky and the metal market here had 6inch tube x 1/8th wall. cost me 60$ for 2.5 feet. I dont know around your area but here it would have most likely been an order in item. For the sides it's probably overkill but honestly am I going to notice the couple lb's less a thinner wall thickness would be? Nope. Also being 1/8th wall I could possibly weld the cage straight to it and it would meet the fia mounting plate requirements.

Grasshopper, its worthwhile to recount your and mine dialog about this because its a good example of how we learn and adjust....right?
I said to make an omega shaped thing we wanted to find someting between 2mm to 2.2mm or 080-090 thick "Because then we can hand it over a table and hammer out the shape".. Then it transpire that you could quickly and easily find something that wall thickness, neither exhaust tube or driveshaft tube.....and you found this and you asked " Can we just do the towers as tubes?"

And I then said "Open the trunk of any Fiat 124 Sport Coupe and you'll see tubes sticking up"

So we have 'bwilliant ideers' but we oughtter be able to think and revise.
Maybe you do a formed and punched gusset from the top over to the car just under the window...Something simple like we did on Xratties---copying from Escort Cosworth


Easy huh?

Don't worry about our conversations getting lost. Lets just say i've made sure this will not be lost.


Ill be honest that gusset does not look like its doing a whole lot to me. Maybe it does more for the front suspension which is what that looks like but for the rear I have my doubts. If that were tying to the very top of that tower and if the gusset were deeper then maybe i could see more potential.



This looks much better to me. Helps the force dissipate from TOP of turret especially around the bolt hole to cage. Would probably be even better if cage tied to top of turret.

This is Al kuns car. Again thank you for the photo Al.

Agree that looks better...dooooo eeeeeeat!


But as for the ultility of that cheesoid little thing, ask Skye aka the Administrator cause he was there when we zapped that in (that's his car) and we poiunded on the done side which went THUD and t'other side when went more BOOOOIING!...Same with stich weld vs non stichwelded inner wheel arch---doingg vs thud.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
alkun
here is some details from some wierdo website...

http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,11063,page=1

One thing to do differently than pictured: You should NOT cut the wheel tubs like I did, the shocks fit inside of the wells, and the cutting them weakens the car.

Well, how else are you going to see them?!

That is a fantastic, info filled thread. It worries me though, I can't help but feel like doing all that is wayyy out of my league. Some serious big brains around here it seems.

Al, and John, that custom arm that the lower part of the strut assembly is mounted to, I assume this was the solution before the 4-link adaptation came about?

For somebody like myself, where doing this stuff is going to be like pulling teeth... would it be possible to find and buy something like that, to skip the link set up for now?

I can't help but feel like when the day comes and I'm an old man, having finally begged, bartered and pleaded and worked enough to finish the rear turrets and links, I'll find a tree on my first stage ever and feel like I wasted my time.

A silly fear, I'm sure...

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Enablers, All of you.

Get something that will bolt on. Go rally.

---

Grant Hughes

Quote
BobOfTheFuture

Quote
alkun
here is some details from some wierdo website...

http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,11063,page=1

One thing to do differently than pictured: You should NOT cut the wheel tubs like I did, the shocks fit inside of the wells, and the cutting them weakens the car.

Well, how else are you going to see them?!

That is a fantastic, info filled thread. It worries me though, I can't help but feel like doing all that is wayyy out of my league. Some serious big brains around here it seems.

Al, and John, that custom arm that the lower part of the strut assembly is mounted to, I assume this was the solution before the 4-link adaptation came about?

For somebody like myself, where doing this stuff is going to be like pulling teeth... would it be possible to find and buy something like that, to skip the link set up for now?

I can't help but feel like when the day comes and I'm an old man, having finally begged, bartered and pleaded and worked enough to finish the rear turrets and links, I'll find a tree on my first stage ever and feel like I wasted my time.

A silly fear, I'm sure...

I hear you, its a lot of time and money to put together a rally car, and its very important to have a realistic plan in hand. You don't not need it all built to the Nth degree just to start out. When I was building this I was planning to go as simple as possible; I had planned Billy HDs and station wagon overload springs from IPD. I got talked into the towers because Tim had them on the shelf and was looking for a test subject.

The custom arms were because Tim Taylor just cannot stop himself from making super cool parts, a simple mount could have been welded to the stock arms.

On stage my JVAB set up has worked flawlessly for a dozen rallies so far despite ham fisted driving and serious abuse, and it makes the car very easy and predictable to drive. I have not had a single problem with any of the parts John or Tim made, the only issue has been failure of the stock 4-link mounts on the body, indicating that the custom 4-link boxes may be a good idea in the long run, or at least that stockers need reinforcement.

If you are trying to keep your build simple, keeping the rear layout stock is a viable option. Selholm and other rally shops in the old country sell rally specific rear spring and dampers for stock location, figure out the rates on those and find something to fit.

Definitely get yourself some of the 50mm front struts from John though, they are the bee's knees.


Grant said it far more succinctly...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2014 01:09AM by alkun.

Honestly based on what you've described for what you got to do this I'm with Grant and Al. Bolt shit in and go run a few events, maybe more. If you don't even have a half decent place to build this your already going to be running into a huge problem.

Du Jungling! Was hast ich gesagt?



Nun die ganz reaison du hast die dämper einmontering stück länger ist?
IST!!!????

IST?



weil ein Grund. nur, weil Sie, dass Design gesehen hatte ...


And didn't somebody suggest some version of 2 D shaped thangs for mounts_
And didn't you talk of a 90 notch in the backstays underside so it intersects the top?

Und how do you intend to do this wif doese long mount parts?

See how we overlook future steps?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

That pic is great, kinda figured youd be doing that, butttt...

If the guy doesn't have the means to pull it off then theres no point in dwelling on it. What would you rather see, him try and dump a bunch of money into trying to pull it off, with tons of room for shit to go wrong (renting garage, he looses garage because they need it back with a half done car) or would you rather see him do some basic things to make the stock stuff better and go have fun.

No two cases are the same. Maybe one day he will be able to put this together. But for now, go have some fun with what you got.