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        <title>Rally Anarchy</title>
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        <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/index.php</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 06:08:39 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118521#msg-118521</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118521#msg-118521</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Welcome back to another update of our quattro rally build. The beginning of assembly.<br />
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Job #1 was to get the shiny shell into it's build space and on its pin stands. That proved a little harder than expected especially as we had to be careful not to damage the new paint and being careful around this thing was something that we hadn't really had to be so cognoscente of till now. But with a little thought and quite a bit of back and forth we managed it.<br />
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So Now we were chomping at the bit to start throwing parts at the bare shell but thought we should first devise some sort of plan. At the very least we realized that we probably shouldn't install parts that will be in the way of other parts later. Then we thought we should prioritize installing parts that would allow the car to roll around on its wheels as right now it's immobile. Also, We also realized there are more parts than we thought that still need refurbishing, buying or even making. Another idea was to add weight to the rear of the car before installing the engine in case it became a bit tippy. So I guess now we had a plan.<br />
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As we'll be in and out of the trunk a lot, we thought it might be a good idea to install the trunk seal and buffers first as this would give the trunk lid a soft landing at least. and some protection for our delicate body parts. Bet you didn't expect this to be the first part to go on the car did you?<br />
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Then we realized that the doors, being quite light, were very easy to fling open so, in order to stop them over extending and damaging the fenders, we realized we should install the door checks next. No, we didn't see this one coming. We also threw in the door seals to help protect the paint on the edges as well as us.<br />
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Next was the steering rack because a) it was shiny, b) it was ready, and c) it was on the &quot;get it rolling on its wheels&quot; list. Check out all those holes in the bulkhead!<br />
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And this one we hadn't anticipated ether: We ordered and installed gold heat reflecting tape from the tail pipe and along the transmission tunnel all the way to the engine bay. You see, we realized that we needed to install the rear subframe in order to get the car rolling and that would make installing the heat shielding a bit tricky, at least in the rear. <br />
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As we were still feeling very protective of our new charge we next applied cavity wax to every nook and cranny we could find then stuck sheets of green saran-wrap like material on the vulnerable surfaces of the shell to protect the paint.<br />
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If you enjoyed reading this follow along so you don't miss the next exciting update. Who knows what we'll install next?<br />
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Also, check out our YouTube Channel. <a href="https://youtube.com/@quattrosquad7034?si=La4ekUbfsds1h2If" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://youtube.com/@quattrosquad7034?si=La4ekUbfsds1h2If</a><br />
and follow us on social media:<br />
INSTAGRAM <a href="https://www.instagram.com/quattro.squad/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.instagram.com/quattro.squad/</a> <br />
FACEBOOK <a href="https://www.facebook.com/QuattroSquad" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.facebook.com/QuattroSquad</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2026 10:40:24 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118520#msg-118520</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118520#msg-118520</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ As we enter the final phase of this project let's review how we got here. We started this build about 10 years ago but now we have the shell painted we think we can see light at the end of the tunnel. Six big Hella lights! We're building this car utilizing the resources of friends and suppliers as much as possible so it's a real collaborative effort hence the name &quot;Quattro Squad&quot;.<br />
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The donor car was supposed to be the parts car for our 85 Quattro but the shell was too nice to scrap, the interior had been stripped and a rudimentary cage had been installed. It was going to be the previous owner's track toy but never got finished. Before we dragged it home, it had been sat in a barn for about 12 years, only 5 miles from our building. So, we wondered what to do with it as it was too good to part out yet also too far gone to be a candidate for restoration. Some bright spark said &quot;build a rally car out of it&quot; as we already had a 911 rally car. That idea was immediately dismissed, but the seed had been planted and it soon germinated. We easily convinced ourselves that we could quickly slap it together and, as a bonus, use any aftermarket parts we wanted, unlike the 85 Quattro we also own, that is so nice we can only use genuine original parts for it. How hard could it be?<br />
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Well, as you're reading this write up you probably know how these things go. The first sign of trouble was when we convinced ourselves that, even though we never planned to go rallying in this car ourselves it would be a shame to build a car that could never be rallied at all so, naturally, we stripped the car bare and took it up to Thompson Racing Fabrication for a full ARA legal cage. We considered a FIA schedule K historic cage but the costs were a little daunting to say the least. At some point it was obvious it had to have a Group B carbon-Kevlar wide body kit too, rather than simply adding Group 4-wheel arch eye-brow extenders, so that was purchased and delivered with the car. <br />
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Back to the present and the assembly phase of our baby. The guys at Courtade Body Shop did a fantastic job of painting the shell and various other parts. They even did it on schedule and under budget. It was a little tricky getting it back into its build room (why don't casters roll in the direction you push them?) but it's on its pin stands now and ready for shiny parts to be installed. In keeping with our other cars, we are going to do our version of the Rothmans liveried Quattros that ran as A2 variants even though our body kit is of an A1 and has an S1 hood curtesy of the previous owner; Specifically, we're replicating the one we have a 1:18 diecast model of. It will also have a more modern 20 valve AAN Engine from EFI Express rather than the 10 valve that should be in there. We do have the proper wheels and tires from BRAID and Michelin, a group B replica dash, replica radiator, intercooler and oil cooler made from Vibrant parts, fire extinguisher mounts and tow hooks from Rennline, wiring harness from Racingtech, carbon Kevlar seats from Corbeau, six massive Hella 2000 lights, a custom stainless-steel exhaust from our friend Scott Banes and many other shiny parts to bolt on.<br />
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So, follow along as we slap it together and subscribe to our Instagram, Facebook and YouTube channels. Then you'll know if we actually finish the bloody thing!<br />
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Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/quattro.squad/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.instagram.com/quattro.squad/</a><br />
Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/QuattroSquad/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.facebook.com/QuattroSquad/</a><br />
YouTube: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@quattrosquad7034" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.youtube.com/@quattrosquad7034</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2026 10:07:20 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118519#msg-118519</guid>
            <title>Re: Oooo! The next &amp;quot;this will save rally&amp;quot; is almost here!</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118519#msg-118519</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You thought I was dead, eh?  Not yet.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jens</dc:creator>
            <category>Rumours, Lies &amp; Damn Lies</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 04 Mar 2026 19:48:09 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118518#msg-118518</guid>
            <title>Re: Oooo! The next &amp;quot;this will save rally&amp;quot; is almost here!</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118518#msg-118518</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Jens, honestly I did not expect you were still alive.  B)<br />
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-Bernie]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ihbobry</dc:creator>
            <category>Rumours, Lies &amp; Damn Lies</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 04 Mar 2026 08:28:09 -0600</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118517#msg-118517</guid>
            <title>Re: Oooo! The next &amp;quot;this will save rally&amp;quot; is almost here!</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118517#msg-118517</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br/></small><strong>Anders Green</strong><br/>
So, those Kubota tractors save rally or what?</div></blockquote>
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<b>PORSCHE - THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE</b><br />
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<img src="https://cdn.agriland.ie/uploads/2024/08/untitled-design-2024-08-14t190848-801.png" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jens</dc:creator>
            <category>Rumours, Lies &amp; Damn Lies</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 27 Feb 2026 12:55:01 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118516#msg-118516</guid>
            <title>Re: Oooo! The next &amp;quot;this will save rally&amp;quot; is almost here!</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?4,24930,118516#msg-118516</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So, those Kubota tractors save rally or what?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anders Green</dc:creator>
            <category>Rumours, Lies &amp; Damn Lies</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:23:42 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118515#msg-118515</guid>
            <title>Re: Schroth Hans Recertification</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118515#msg-118515</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ As I recall, you have to send it back to the manufacturer or an approved vendor/service outlet. Here in the U.S., HMS Motorsports offers Schroth recerts for both traditional FHRs and flex units. Not sure if anyone else does.<br />
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Be aware that a few years back Schroth switched their FHR helmet post clips from the common teardrop style to a circular clip that is (maybe) proprietary. I think it might be what has always been used on their flex units, but for the traditional FHR tethers it was a change.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Rolling Blunder</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 19 Feb 2026 12:31:25 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118514#msg-118514</guid>
            <title>Schroth Hans Recertification</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118514#msg-118514</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey does anyone know how to get a Schroth SHR flex recertified?<br />
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I have one I used for like one event and can’t find any mention of how except in the instructions they say should be recertified every 5 years.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>krisdahl</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2026 15:45:35 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118463,118513#msg-118513</guid>
            <title>Re: 1986 chevette rear end</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118463,118513#msg-118513</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Use a Chevy 7.5 inch 10 bolt rear end. Works easily with the Chevette. Lockers and ring and pinions available from Summit. Fiero front end upgrades your Chevette. Would also suggest you look at Ecotec drivelines instead of a Ford, like from the Solstice.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>wvonkessler</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2025 08:34:43 -0600</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118512#msg-118512</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118512#msg-118512</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The shell is all white and back home ready for assembly!<br />
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The guys at Courtade Body Shop in Grand Rapids Michigan did an amazing job and even came in under estimate. Can't thank them enough. Here are some pictures and videos of the process.<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6HFKF7_Lnl0?si=Dk9z7JTCvQDuGSsl" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.youtube.com/embed/6HFKF7_Lnl0?si=Dk9z7JTCvQDuGSsl</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RXamsz_ZBfg?si=yWAKG0PxazoaTHAm" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.youtube.com/embed/RXamsz_ZBfg?si=yWAKG0PxazoaTHAm</a><br />
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Now let the assembly begin. Can you guess what's getting bolted on first?<br />
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<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54961441055_e2033e2551_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2025 08:47:17 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?1,118511,118511#msg-118511</guid>
            <title>FRANCE - VIDEO RALLYE DU PAYS VENCOIS 2025  | WITH copilote T.Neuville au volant, Martijn Wydaeghe</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?1,118511,118511#msg-118511</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Good evening to the community.  <br />
Living in the south of France and often attending motorsport events, I will share with you the events that I film.  <br />
I am sharing with you our video of the last event of the season in our region.<br />
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<br/><embed src="https://www.youtube.com/v/e0zUh3Phyu4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360"></embed><br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AZURMEDIAPROD</dc:creator>
            <category>Rally Chat</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 14 Dec 2025 14:57:55 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?1,118510,118510#msg-118510</guid>
            <title>v</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?1,118510,118510#msg-118510</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Happy Thanksgiving!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>donkongy46</dc:creator>
            <category>Rally Chat</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 27 Nov 2025 18:22:48 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118509,118509#msg-118509</guid>
            <title>Clio 2 RS1 N3</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118509,118509#msg-118509</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ For sale: Clio 2 RS1 N3<br />
Bodyline paint<br />
Roll bar<br />
A4 registration<br />
Full carbon fiber<br />
Swindow engine 1200km<br />
Sadev dog clutch 140km<br />
SNRA driveshaft 140km<br />
Helix clutch 140km<br />
Flywheel 140km<br />
Front brake discs and pads RC6 140km<br />
Rear brake pads Ferodo 140km<br />
New alternator<br />
New starter<br />
New wishbone bushings<br />
New steering rack bushings<br />
New tie rod ends and ball joints<br />
Proflex 3-way adjustable shock absorbers front/rear<br />
Renault Sport engine mounts<br />
Renault Sport exhaust system<br />
Renault Sport rear suspension<br />
Buck seats valid until 2029<br />
Harnesses valid until 2027<br />
Fire extinguishers to be re-tightened April 2024<br />
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Onboard equipment<br />
3 Kumho K51 tires 140km<br />
4 Kumho K21 tires, 140km<br />
2 Kumho K61 tires, 0km<br />
4 Kumho rain tires, 40 and 0km<br />
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6 Braid wheels<br />
7 Speedline wheels<br />
Xenon headlights<br />
Subframe, wishbones, stabilizer bar<br />
Spark plugs, pads, alternator, starter<br />
Spark plug coils, wires, rear axle<br />
One passenger side fender<br />
One front bumper<br />
One rear bumper<br />
Price: €14,000 Please contact me by email at<br />
<a href="mailto:&#112;&#101;&#115;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#46;&#106;&#111;&#110;&#97;&#116;&#104;&#97;&#110;&#64;&#104;&#111;&#116;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;">&#112;&#101;&#115;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#46;&#106;&#111;&#110;&#97;&#116;&#104;&#97;&#110;&#64;&#104;&#111;&#116;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jonathan11</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2025 05:18:37 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118508,118508#msg-118508</guid>
            <title>Sadev ST75/14 gearbox for sale, overhauled + Sachs 4-skid clutch + AIM MXL Strada dashboard</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118508,118508#msg-118508</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sadev ST75/14 gearbox for sale, overhauled + Sachs 4-skid clutch + AIM MXL Strada dashboard<br />
<br />
The gearbox is fitted with a Renault Sport spacer, part number 77 11 155 475, making it compatible with C1J, F7P, F7R, K4M, F4R, etc.<br />
It has a 13/54 final drive ratio. The clutch shaft and gears are practically new (4 slaloms and 2 regional rallies). The bearings are new. A release bearing guide for 35mm or 54mm thrust bearings is available.<br />
<br />
The clutch is designed for a Clio 2 RS and is practically new, requiring only 2 hours of break-in.<br />
<br />
The dashboard is an AIM MXL Strada, supplied with its wiring harness, sensors, and probes. It is compatible with a wide range of CAN bus and analog ECUs.<br />
<br />
price: 7000€<br />
contact: <a href="mailto:&#109;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#97;&#108;&#108;&#111;&#115;&#115;&#101;&#64;&#103;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;">&#109;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#97;&#108;&#108;&#111;&#115;&#115;&#101;&#64;&#103;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mantoine</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2025 05:12:43 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118507,118507#msg-118507</guid>
            <title>Saxo Kit Car rear axle assembly</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118507,118507#msg-118507</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Rear axle assembly for sale, mounted on a Saxo Kit Car.<br />
<br />
Saxo Kit Car rear axle assembly<br />
<br />
Kit car type axle beam (sold without ignition coils)<br />
2 Kit car rear control arms<br />
2 Kit car hubs/stub axles<br />
2 Alcon brake calipers<br />
2 Kit car brake caliper brackets<br />
260mm diameter brake discs/pads<br />
Price: €2,000<br />
Contact: <a href="mailto:&#109;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#97;&#108;&#108;&#111;&#115;&#115;&#101;&#64;&#103;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;">&#109;&#97;&#110;&#116;&#111;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#97;&#108;&#108;&#111;&#115;&#115;&#101;&#64;&#103;&#109;&#97;&#105;&#108;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mantoine</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2025 05:04:49 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118506#msg-118506</guid>
            <title>Re: WTB: VW Mk1/2/3 to Mk4 rear hub adapter</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118506#msg-118506</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Got a couple hits but both scenarios played out the same.. both situations, im recommended to contact someone and when it comes to payment, they only accept zelle, apple pay or PayPal, but only friends and family..<br />
<br />
Just wanted to put this out there as a warning I guess.. I dont do any transactions unless its paypal, goods and services.. Including the fees is no problem.. <br />
<br />
Any legit sellers?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dubber4life</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 29 Oct 2025 17:56:01 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118505#msg-118505</guid>
            <title>Re: WTB: VW Mk1/2/3 to Mk4 rear hub adapter</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118505#msg-118505</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <a href="https://imgur.com/a/JGvCcpf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >the adapter</a> <br />
<br />
<img src="https://imgur.com/a/JGvCcpf" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dubber4life</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Oct 2025 13:54:24 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118504#msg-118504</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118504#msg-118504</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ THE FINAL PUSH.......<br />
<br />
......to get the shell into the trailer and delivered to our paint guys was a lot more work than we thought but last week we did it. It feels like a huge milestone for the project as next time we see it, the car will be in pristine fresh white paint and we can start bolting shiny things to it. When we left you it was the most car it's been in over 20 years. At the end of this update, it will be the least. That's progress! Here's what we had to do to get it to this stage:<br />
<br />
First, we took all the bodywork off the front and then started taking everything out of the engine bay in as many large subassemblies as possible. We dropped the engine and transmission as one but we had to take off some ancillaries.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54615244737_2ace3cc4c5_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Most of the engine harness came out as one, thanks to bulkhead connectors.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54628138971_8105789d2e_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
With the engine out, that gave us access to the brakes master cylinders and lines as well as the fuel system plus the steering rack.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54640596784_431cbca2f3_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Next, we removed all four strut assemblies and both subframes. Of course, we left the rear diff attached. This also allowed the exhaust to be removed.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54640376661_6be20f18c6_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54640376691_cc9b6378e3_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54640376636_738c19a5df_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Then we directed our attention to the cabin. Dash was first then the heater, seats, wiring harness, pedals footrests etc.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54649785870_90b5625ca1_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54649699503_970e804cfe_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Of course, we organized everything very professionally............ as a diorama on the floor!<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54733365281_3fa7f64231_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54733603709_a398e49352_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
At some point we remembered that we hadn't mocked up the rear skid plate and fuel pump cover. Our next thought was &quot;DOH! we have to put the rear subframe and diff back in.&quot;<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54766175397_a4da1057ac_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54776932977_a6f0fc0cf7_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
With the shell basically stripped we set about filling unwanted holes and removing unwanted brackets. There were a lot more than we anticipated. We also tidied up some previous welds and finish welded some things we'd previously tack-welded. Fortunately, while taking parts off we remembered to mark the holes for either rivnuts, welded nuts or through holes. Again, there were way more than we imagined.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54767011476_18c4c1b3cf_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54767367895_7bf455f4d3_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54769891381_6c43fea699_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
With the shell as naked as it has ever been and our engineering brains engaged, we took the opportunity to weigh it. Wouldn't you? It turned out to weigh 374lb in the front and 573lb in the rear which is 40% front and 60% rear. Coincidentally this is the same as our assembled 911 rally car and the exact opposite of a fully assembled Quattro! Isn't engineering fun?<br />
<br />
We knew we'd have to move the shell around the workshop and paint shop and also transport it in the trailer so devised two different systems to do so. Rather than build a cart to move it around we thought we'd see if we could attach some wheels to our pin stands and make them mobile. Sounds crazy but we figured if we could just add a brace to stop them rotating it might be very stable.  We were pleasantly surprised by the result. You wouldn't want to push it down the street like this but it is quite happy to trundle around the workshop.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54753086911_b816d6a11a_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54753302943_1e3f9088a7_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
So, what about getting it into the trailer and securely dragging it the three hours each way to the paint shop? Clearly it had to be lower than the pin stands on dollies. We came up with simply bolting wheels to the subframe mounts. After all, that's kind of what they are for, right.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54824040908_c675126a45_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54822920917_7232ae07e0_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Finally, the day came to trundle it into the trailer. load the van with other parts and drag it to our friends at Courtade Body Shop (www.courtadebodyshop.com) for the transformation.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54855781777_ca415443f4_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54853490168_19db898e3e_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54853490163_dea3604021_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Can't wait to show it off to you in a few weeks!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Oct 2025 13:05:45 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118503#msg-118503</guid>
            <title>WTB: VW Mk1/2/3 to Mk4 rear hub adapter</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,118503,118503#msg-118503</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello,<br />
Looking to see if anyone has a set of the VW rear hub adapters sold on here some years back..<br />
<br />
It allows you to bolt on the mk4 stub axle to a mk1/2/3 stub axle.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have a set for sale? First time on this forum so ill try to add a Pic.. <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Can text me @914-703-9703]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dubber4life</dc:creator>
            <category>Buy, Sell &amp; Trade</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Oct 2025 10:37:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118502,118502#msg-118502</guid>
            <title>Anti/ProSquat values on 4 link suspension - Rally &amp;amp; Rallycross</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118502,118502#msg-118502</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi all and thanks for letting a Finn join your forum, our BBS culture is pretty much dead in Finland unfortunately and there's not much sharing anyways about these kind of stuff.<br />
<br />
I've been trying to gather information on anti/prosquat values from different appliances regarding 4 link rear suspension setups. The literature around the subject is bang on rally secrecy and I'm trying to wrap my head around where to start planning the geometry. I understand the concept itself, but trying to apply the theory to practice appears to be different story.<br />
<br />
The car is K11 micra converted RWD (dont ask :spin:) powered with Ford OHC and T9 transmission. Front suspension is derived from starlet/micra with bilstein shocks. Rear end is 1031 from 240 volvo, dana lsd and currently in the making regarding suspension. Will be used on loose gravel / ice, but occasional tarmac is not outruled since some of the folk tracks has sections of tarmac.<br />
<br />
To the subject:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,12840" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >Rally anarchy sticky</a> is good bit of knowledge. I've been looking in to different ready made 4 link sets and the suggested values for the link lengths puts the setup range roughly from 0% antisquat to -200% prosquat depending on the rig and set.<br />
<br />
Latelly in rallycross and folk racing there has been 3 different cults how to setup the cars:<br />
<br />
1. Near 100% Antisquat i.e. the rear end is neutral upon launch:<br />
<br/><embed src="https://www.youtube.com/v/C3d73oSn6W8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360"></embed><br/><br />
<br />
2. Over 100% Antisquat i.e. the rear end lifts the chassis heavily upon launch:<br />
<a href="https://youtube.com/shorts/4zEXNya_ajg?si=X0ncPzZlmiAu-vK4" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://youtube.com/shorts/4zEXNya_ajg?si=X0ncPzZlmiAu-vK4</a><br />
<br />
3. Pro squat i.e. the rear end sinks heavily during acceleration:<br />
<br/><embed src="https://www.youtube.com/v/lfeRaDDYajA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360"></embed><br/>?t=30<br />
<br />
The questions &amp; thoughts:<br />
<br />
Every setup has it's pros and cons (any thoughts?) and benefit to different driving styles (which benefits which?) but I'm having hard times to apply these pros and cons in my own plans. <br />
<br />
What comes to 4 link setup, most of the subjects are about which setup launches the car best from the line, but barely none talks how different setups affects on the first corner and aid different driving styles in entry, mid and exit of the corner not to mention how the different style of setup affects the spring rates and damping values etc.<br />
<br />
Sorry if I posted this to wrong subforum, but I didn't find a separate tech section. There's lots of secrecy around the subject and I'm trying to join together all bits and pieces of this very scattered subject and share it with everyone after I've applied the science to my own testings.<br />
<br />
Please join in, the word is free and I opened this topic mostly for sharing your knowledge and mine. My history is on track, tarmac and with FWD so needless to say I'm bit in the woods atm.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Seppo44</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 05 Oct 2025 09:32:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118501#msg-118501</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118501#msg-118501</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ We're really close to finishing the dry build phase and we’re starting to run out of things to do. The list of essentials is down to 3-4 and the &quot;nice but not essential&quot; is tempting us. Let's how disciplined we can be over the next few weeks.<br />
<br />
We bought an original composite boot/trunk lid from a later Quattro, for obvious reasons, but it had one broken mounting stud. We were hoping three out of four would be enough but with that huge oil cooler, we thought we should at least attempt to fix it. It was easier than expected but with one minor oops. See if you can spot it.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54518897552_91d51ba142_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54519948569_2b67491732_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54520020768_941715604e_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54519766561_4e38e66d79_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
We also modified the rear skid plate bar to make it look more authentic. We added what might be a reinforcing bar along its trailing edge:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54490634445_ced2c5f6dd_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54493032465_6040f36b7c_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Next, we added some mounting tabs on the strut bar for our igniters:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54534698795_6490693118_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54601165765_f2dd790361_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
We always felt these cars lacked fender liners, even though the works cars didn't seem to have them. We started to make some but soon discovered that they would probably restrict suspension travel so settled instead on blocking off the area behind the headlights and horns with abs sheet as a compromise.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54510423429_d8be8725f5_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54520114730_1d010d9099_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54536477739_9d46f46f97_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
We also added these straps to the hood and trunk to make it easier to lift them. They aren't period works correct so we intended removing them once the build is finished but they are proving so useful we may keep them. What do you think?<br />
<br />
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54599975507_440a5208c2_c.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
We may have reached the end of the dry-build phase now! We'll let you know if that's true in the next update. Click, like and subscribe.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Aug 2025 10:07:29 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?2,118499,118500#msg-118500</guid>
            <title>Re: Any trustworthy Cyprus real estate sites?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?2,118499,118500#msg-118500</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I’ve used <a href="https://dom.com.cy/en/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >DOM</a> before and it’s very reliable. It brings together thousands of listings with real-time updates, verified agencies, and helpful market insights.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DiazFrancoD</dc:creator>
            <category>Off Topic</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 04 Aug 2025 09:42:02 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?2,118499,118499#msg-118499</guid>
            <title>Any trustworthy Cyprus real estate sites?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?2,118499,118499#msg-118499</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I’ve come across lots of scattered info online about properties in Cyprus. I’d love a trusted, all-in-one platform for homes, rentals, and prices. Recommendations?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Nelson Omar</dc:creator>
            <category>Off Topic</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 04 Aug 2025 09:35:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118496#msg-118496</guid>
            <title>Re: How to get an engine ecu to control a rwd auto transmission tcm?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118496#msg-118496</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I had a great success with the folks at PMC of NC. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.pcmofnc.com/?gad_source=1&amp;gad_campaignid=15210379564&amp;gbraid=0AAAAACXsomObW87twfnMRixLTzYdEqT8H&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwsZPDBhBWEiwADuO6y86eJYywzSNyl5OuBXcuX_9eBI0BsDgq_pxZmLNbzeaLtV8vxnRGVhoCZWMQAvD_BwE" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >https://www.pcmofnc.com/?gad_source=1&amp;gad_campaignid=15210379564&amp;gbraid=0AAAAACXsomObW87twfnMRixLTzYdEqT8H&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwsZPDBhBWEiwADuO6y86eJYywzSNyl5OuBXcuX_9eBI0BsDgq_pxZmLNbzeaLtV8vxnRGVhoCZWMQAvD_BwE</a><br />
<br />
They seem to know stuff GM doesn't ;) <br />
<br />
Might be worth a shot contacting them.<br />
<br />
Matt]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mad Matt F</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2025 10:11:23 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118495#msg-118495</guid>
            <title>Re: How to get an engine ecu to control a rwd auto transmission tcm?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118495#msg-118495</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I asked my friend about who he used for his 2.0 turbo swap (from a Buick) with a Solstice  <br />
6-speed into a Manta. <br />
<br />
Apparently the guy who did the mods and built his harness died. So, no bueno there. <br />
<br />
He did say that Trifecta Performance can modify ECU’s. Hope this helps.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ascona73</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 22 Jun 2025 19:11:44 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118494#msg-118494</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118494#msg-118494</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Next, after shimming the doors level and getting most of the body lines lined up, we focused on the fenders. Oh boy! it seemed we may have BMW M3 fenders; they were that far out!<br />
<br />
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Firstly, we &quot;adjusted&quot; the fit as best we could by adjusting the mounting holes that were once in the right place. That improved things a bit but still left a lot of filling, cutting, grinding and sending left. And that was just to achieve a somewhat race car level of fit. If this was a concours build we would have had to start from scratch.<br />
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To lower the tops of the fenders where they meet the a-pillar we first cut a long, thin wedge out about a foot back, squished it down with lead weights and fixed it in place with some fiber glass matt and resin on the underside. We also had to extend both these surfaces to actually get close to the a-pillars. This was followed by fill, sand, fill sand, many times over.<br />
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We fixed the sides by adding lots of filler and sanding it down till the panels were in something approaching the same plane as the doors.<br />
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We fixed the bottom part that kicks out by cutting it off. Taking a wedge out of it and glassing it back in the right place. Of course, plenty of filling and sanding was also required.<br />
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We fixed the door gaps with the Dremel but had to remove so much material that we created holes. We added a lot of fiber glass matt inside this area to restore integrity. Then more filling and sanding, of course.<br />
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The lowest and smallest crease on the fenders was so low we had to rebuild it 1/2&quot; higher!<br />
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This one made us laugh. We wanted to fix the droopy eye look over the headlights so added material to make them level. This only made them too deep and they no longer lined up with the bottom of the hood return. We decided, at least for now, to hide this issue with black electrical tape. It's quite effective and may become permanent!<br />
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Finally, we were happy with the fit and decided to stop. We could always improve it but at some point, you have to remind yourself that it's a rally car and not a show queen. That and the realization that we could tidy it up during paint prep if we really felt the need.<br />
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            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 19 Jun 2025 09:03:17 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118493#msg-118493</guid>
            <title>Re: How to get an engine ecu to control a rwd auto transmission tcm?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118493#msg-118493</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks for letting me know.  I found in Google last night that the pontiac solstice engine said it was the same width and height as the chevy cruze 1.4t 25.7 inches and 25.3 wide.  I do know the Ford 2.0t is 28 inches high and the miata motor is alot higher compared to the cadillac cts 2.0t that says it's the same dimensions as the gen 2 solstice inf.<br />
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Ill go to the wrecker to confirm what I just read online but I'm doubtful I'll fit the 2.0t into it if your friend had trouble.<br />
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So fitting in a 1.4t looks like it's the only option that leaves me in the same issue of trying to get an automatic to work with the ecu.<br />
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One of the reasons why I've heard of difficulties with getting the engine in, because the shifters need to be moved forward that means the engine needs to as well.  An automatic can be moved as far back as possible and the electronic shifter can be placed in the proper position.<br />
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I'm hoping the place your friend used has experience with an automatic.  Your friend used a manual transmission if it's a 6 speed that doesn't need to communicate like an automatic. <br />
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Crossing fingers]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Opelgt73</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Jun 2025 16:08:28 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118492#msg-118492</guid>
            <title>Re: How to get an engine ecu to control a rwd auto transmission tcm?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118492#msg-118492</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The 1.4T is significantly smaller than the 2.0 liter. <br />
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The 2.0/2.2/2.4 family of engines is actually very tall….much taller than the original Opel engine. Wider as well.<br />
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A friend of mine put a 2.0 turbo into a Manta with Solstace 6-speed, and I know he found a company to hack the ECU. I’ll see if he remembers who did it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ascona73</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Jun 2025 13:51:34 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118491#msg-118491</guid>
            <title>How to get an engine ecu to control a rwd auto transmission tcm?</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118491#msg-118491</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi I'm looking at either a 1.4t from a Chevy cruze or a 1.6t from a Ford fiesta st.  I'm having trouble figuring out how I can get a rwd automatic to work between the ecu and tcm.<br />
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I know it would be alot easier to use a manual transmission but I have hip issues so can't use a clutch anymore.  I've looked at older 4l40 for my car under 2000 lbs but it might be better to use a 4l60 because I'm going to tune whatever engine to atleast 250hp.  The 5l40e looks good but my ultimate goal is a 6l45 from a cadillac cts.  I'd love to drop in the 2.0t ltg from one to make it easier but I can't seem to find if the motor is the same width and height as the smaller brother 1.4t.  The pontiac solstice seems to be with the 2.0t lnf engine, though it's very hard to find a motor and transmission for a decent price.<br />
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Anyway if anyone knows if the ecu can work with a different tcu that didn't come in the car or if there is a way to get them to.<br />
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There are some guys that are trying to hack it to use a different transmission,  so I am sure there must be a way since a gm ecu and gm fwd or rwd all uses the same software.  The only thing that might be a problem, the drivers might need loading from a cadillac ecu into the cruze's ecu.<br />
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If anyone knows anything or can suggest a person or company that can do this, please chime in.  Here in Canada, there isn't anyone that understands enough about how the tcu and ecm works.  What i understand, the ecu has the shift points and tells the tcu when, then the tcu does its thing controlling the transmission. I might be wrong though, lol]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Opelgt73</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 10 Jun 2025 17:03:41 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118490#msg-118490</guid>
            <title>Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build</title>
            <link>https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,113448,118490#msg-118490</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Now the big one: getting the doors, hood and fenders to fit. We swear, when the car left the body shop eight years ago everything fit well but now it appeared that the car has morphed somewhat over time. The door gaps aft were tiny to non-existent and the fenders seemed now to be taller and at a funny angle. Most of the body lines didn't line up anymore either. First, we tackled the door gaps. <br />
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There is no adjustment in the hinge system that would allow them to be positioned further forward. All we could do was add shims behind them to move them further back but that, of course, would make the situation worse. At least shimming allowed us to get them to close, latch and be level. <br />
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We clearly had to move the hinges forward somehow. We tried hitting them with a BFH but they, and the a-pillar, were too sturdy. We thought about cutting them off and rewelding them on but thought we'd just bugger up the alignment of them doing that. Finally, we settled on cutting slots in them so they would more easily bend and, ultimately weld the slots up. It took a lot of chin rubbing and pacing back and forth but eventually we plucked up courage and were more than pleased when it seemed to work out better than expected.<br />
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We gained about 3mm of gap. We could have got more but we knew that opening the doors was going to be challenging even if we had 5-6mm of gap there, so were very happy with this. Next, fender fit!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BRAIDusa</dc:creator>
            <category>Construction Zone</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 May 2025 08:56:46 -0500</pubDate>
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