2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To

2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To I'm going to try and keep this short and to the point. There will be many different cars this swap will fit into, and each of those will have their own unique issues. I will add a few specifics when it comes to the Merkur XR4TI, as that is what I was working on. The swap to a modern powertrain in The New and Improved Merkur came about after a simple cost/benefit analysis. The stock 2.3 motors are cheap, but this particular car had 3 engine failures (and resulting DNFs) in one season. There was a hole in a piston, a blown head gasket, and a blown turbo. All of the issues happened at lower than stock boost. The cost to build up a better performing 2.3 engine started to get a little spendy with new pistons, aluminum head with a proper camshaft, and an aftermarket ECU that was properly tuned for the engine and power levels desired. This was in the range of $7-8K with all new parts including the ECU. The Ford Duratec/Mazda L engine is used in a wide range of vehicles from Ford, Mazda, and Volvo. The displacement in the US ranges from 2.0L to 2.5L with forced induction varieties at 2.0 and 2.3L. From what I can tell, the bell housing bolt patterns are all the same. There are slight variations in motor mount locations. RWD transmissions for the Duratec/Mazda L (available in NA) are mainly the Ranger 5spd, and the NC Miata 5/6spd transmissions. The NC/duratec Miata places it on the left hand side, where the NB miata places the starter on the right side of the engine (which will not work on a Duratec engine). A quick break down of the costs associated with the 2.0 Ecoboost swap; -2.0 Ecoboost $1000-$6600. This engine is used in the Focus ST, Edge, Escape, etc. Car-part.com lists prices from $1000-3000 for a used engine with varying amounts of mileage. I was able to find a VERY low miles engine, complete with the full intake system, wiring harness, ECU, exhaust down pipe, and catalytic converter. - 5 or 6spd transmission from a NC Miata ($300-$1300, car-part). This is the part that makes the swap easy. -NC Miata clutch kit $850. Steel flywheel, 6-puck ceramic sprung disk, heavier pressure plate, and slave cylinder. This was all sourced from Goodwin Racing. -Mazda trans to 7260 slip yolk, $51. [url=http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/7260-series-mazda-turbo2-early-mustang-c3-transmission-25-spline-slip-yoke-sku-s-2603-25-2-3-mus.html]Fort Wayne Clutch[/url] -NC Miata starter $50 from Ebay. -Ford Ecoboost Controls pack $1500-$1650 from various sources. -Gauges are done with a 7in Samsung tablet and a OBD2Link Bluetooth adapter -Custom Oil Pan $400. The stock NC Miata pan may work, but it's cast aluminum and that scared us. Luckily, there was/is a guy over on the turboranger forums making rear sump turbo duratec oil pans. The sump has to be modified slightly to clear the XR cross member. You could also move the engine back another 1-4 inches as well. I had a few of the welds weep a bit of oil, which will someday get fixed. XR Specific changes: The firewall has to be modified to clear the water outlet on the rear of the engine, and to allow for the sump to sit behind the cross member. After some measuring, I was able to place the output of the transmission in the same spot as the T5 that was in there. This allowed me to use a conversion u-joint and retain a stock driveline. By adding some clearance room, the heater needed to be relocated. Which is good, because the blower bearings fail more than an old Volvo, and they are impossible to find rebuilt. A universal Summit Racing heater box was used. They are ~$150, and are amazing. Motor mounts were fabricated. Typical motorsports-style tube mounts. The mounting ears are low on the frame horns which make servicing the engine much easier over the mounts that were originally in the car. Note to others: the kit from retro-ford.uk will mostly fit. The tubes are too short and the right side engine plate will not fit. Nice kit otherwise though. Air intake tract is straight forward. There are 2 ( I can't stress this enough!) air temp sensors that must be used. I was able to scavenge these from the intake system that came with the engine. One sensor is just post the airfilter, the other is post intercooler. I did have to lengthen one of the sensor leads to reach to the front right corner of the car. There are weld in bungs available for this sensor ($20), but I machined some. The ECU uses a MAP based tuning strategy, which works pretty good when you blow your intercooler plumbing apart or if you have an old leaking Volvo intercooler :) One hurdle is the coolant lines. This was remedied by a quick trip down to the local autoparts store. I'll grab the hose numbers off the car when I get a chance. Wiring up the controls pack is pretty straight forward. The manual from Ford is not finished yet, but if you bug them they'll send you a pre-release version. One note on that: the starter relay is powered through the electric fan lead. This was the source of a few hours of confusion until I was able to get a full pinout for the ECU and the Controls Pack from Ford. Hydraulic power steering is retained by using a Ford Ranger power steering pump on a custom bracket to allow belt tensioning. A stock ranger high-pressure hose with a #6 JIC fitting TIG welded to the hard line. The mounting bracket is not the best solution, but it does work. I tried to find a decent spring loaded tensioner, but I just could find much that would work. Also, there is a engine mounting boss on the front of the timing cover that interferes with the stock Ranger pulley. So the timing cover would also need to be swapped out, or spacers used for the pump. If anyone figures out a decent electro-assist column, I think that would be a good solution. Hopefully this helps those that are looking at doing a swap in the future. If you have any questions, ask away and I will try and answer them as best I can. I also added a dyno graph of the stock ST ecoboost and what they are tuned for with the Ecoboost controls pack. 350 ft-lbs -> mmmmmmmmm... torque. https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,106139#msg-106139 Sat, 04 Jul 2026 20:12:31 -0500 Phorum 5.2.15a https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,117115#msg-117115 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,117115#msg-117115
Now, the 2.0 controls pack would work directly with a production car 2.0 Ecoboost. When they made the controls pack for the 3.5 Ecoboost, they did it in such a way that you could not use it without the corresponding crate engine. (Something about the fuel rail is completely different, and some other changes) I wonder if the 2.3 is similarly hamstrung so you have to buy the entire $8000 swap. But the controls packs for the 2.3 are available for $1800...

Also, Quad4Rods apparently no longer exists, so beefy transmission options just got a bit narrower in scope. NC 5-speeds are not cheap, but if the input shaft is the same length as NA/NBs, then one could just buy two NC transmissions and keep rotating NA/NB guts behind their front housings.]]> Pete Construction Zone Sat, 21 Jul 2018 18:56:28 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114742#msg-114742 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114742#msg-114742
I'm about as sure you can put an FB tailshaft housing on the NC 5 speed as I can be without having actually done it; for reference, the NB Miata 6 speed tailshaft housing fits on the RX-8 box too.]]> mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Sat, 11 Mar 2017 18:32:02 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114741#msg-114741 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114741#msg-114741
From a Focus forum:

"The 2.5 and 2.3 blocks are identical other than 1 oil passageway that connect to the head and the bore is larger on the 2.5 block.

The crankshafts have the same diameter main journal bores but the 2.5 uses a larger connecting rod journal.

The 2.5 crank shaft has a 100mm stroke vs the 2.3 94mm to the 2.5 uses shorter rods to compensate. "]]> Pete Construction Zone Sat, 11 Mar 2017 14:37:22 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114740#msg-114740 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114740#msg-114740
Allegedly all NC transmissions have triple cone synchros or somesuch on the first four gears. NB only had double cone on 2nd gear. I have a friend who has been rallycrossing for many years on the same 1.6 NA transmission, first with a 1.6, then with a Mazdaspeed Miata engine with slightly excessive power (whatever 13psi makes?) and flat-shift/antilag, and he also dolly tows it with the driveshaft still in. Meanwhile, Goofus blows up smoothcase transmissions left and right behind 13Bs and 12As...

I realized that my Ranger core engine might not yield a timing cover for a 2.5 if the deck height changed. A search for Duratec deck heights brought me to a thread here on RallyAnarchy about Duratecs and while no hard info was gleaned other than 2.0 and 2.3 having different heights, it did come to light that the 2.5 has "stout" forged rods and not powdered metal rods.

Now, I am not an anti-PM rod curmudgeon like some people are who throw them out as a matter of principle - and I have a PM rod out of a 6-liter Chevy that bent into an S without breaking that I keep as a talisman - but I respect that the Duratec PM rods are apparently more like powdered cheese, and I see the 2.5's alleged forged rods as a great reassurance.

And then someone was telling me stories of 2.3 cranks in 2.5 blocks and I have a feeling we had this discussion on another forum.]]> Pete Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 16:32:19 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114739#msg-114739 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114739#msg-114739

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Pete

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mekilljoydammit
I was thinking an MX-5 box, either 6 or 5 speed (5 speed is basically just Yet Another Smoothcase box)

THANK YOU. I'd been trying to determine that but The Hive came up emptyhanded.

Slight grain of salt in that the part numbers are very slightly different for the internals (probably superceded or suchlike) but the internal diagrams are the same, and if you look at the centersection and mid plate (or whatever you want to call it)]]> mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 13:14:03 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114738#msg-114738 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114738#msg-114738

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mekilljoydammit
I was thinking an MX-5 box, either 6 or 5 speed (5 speed is basically just Yet Another Smoothcase box)

THANK YOU. I'd been trying to determine that but The Hive came up emptyhanded.]]> Pete Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 12:57:38 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114737#msg-114737 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114737#msg-114737

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NoCoast

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mekilljoydammit
Huh, the Black Rockets even seem to be more commonly available in 13" too; would mean not having to get more wheels. I was thinking an MX-5 box, either 6 or 5 speed (5 speed is basically just Yet Another Smoothcase box) myself as automatics confuse and annoy me.

I should probably just send you a PM on more specific Mazda stuff.

We can get 155/70R13 in the F or SG IndySport and 175/70R13 in SG only. ;)

Geez, make it easy why dontcha... if I actually follow through with the rest of the car, I'll give you a call.]]> mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 11:42:10 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114736#msg-114736 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114736#msg-114736

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mekilljoydammit
Huh, the Black Rockets even seem to be more commonly available in 13" too; would mean not having to get more wheels. I was thinking an MX-5 box, either 6 or 5 speed (5 speed is basically just Yet Another Smoothcase box) myself as automatics confuse and annoy me.

I should probably just send you a PM on more specific Mazda stuff.

We can get 155/70R13 in the F or SG IndySport and 175/70R13 in SG only. ;)]]> NoCoast Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 10:38:57 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114735#msg-114735 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114735#msg-114735
I should probably just send you a PM on more specific Mazda stuff.]]> mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Fri, 10 Mar 2017 08:12:22 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114730#msg-114730 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114730#msg-114730
Of course, I'm also extremely happy with my Black Rockets. I didn't start getting big breakage problems until after I switched to them, after all. They are excellent all-rounders but I want a set of the Indy Sport mud tires, or maybe just two for the back and some tall/narrow Winterforces with heavy application of a heated chisel to turn them into something like "rib" tractor tires since when it is sloppy the most difficult thing is getting steering out of the front end.

Working on the new RX-7, the engine is probably useless. So I am deeply thinking of a 2.5 for the black car and some sort of carbureted 4-port 13B for the new one. Weird that as "rare" as they are, I have an embarassment of useable GSL-SE engine parts and no good 12A parts. And you can still buy new GSL-SE rotor housings from Mazda Motorsports, pretty cheap too. If a 2.5 can make sufficient power at low RPM like that (I consider 7400 to be "low") then that opens the door for using a 5L55 (5R55?) transmission, which due to a quirk in how Ford turned a 4-speed auto into a 5-speed, has a rather close 1-2 ratio split, which IMO means "perfect Rallycross transmission".

And I still want a damn automatic in the car, anyway.]]> Pete Construction Zone Thu, 09 Mar 2017 20:14:14 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114724#msg-114724 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114724#msg-114724 mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Thu, 09 Mar 2017 08:49:28 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114712#msg-114712 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114712#msg-114712

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mekilljoydammit
FWIW, I came across a Miata shop with a dyno of an unopened 2.5 with the minimum to fit into a 3rd gen MX-5 (Miata intake manifold with a little porting, header, ECU retune) putting out 200hp to the wheels. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1506.html for the dyno... 90% of peak torque from something like 2k to 6k RPM, redline out at 7400ish. That's like what, $3-400 for the engine off car-part?

My shop mate is going this route with his NC miata. Cheap (relatively) to swap in, and a good bump in power and torque over the 2.0. The rod/stroke ratio is a little whack, but they've proven to be reliable engines.

The Volvo branded part on the Ecoboost was the boost/vacuum check valve.]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Tue, 07 Mar 2017 12:18:21 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114711#msg-114711 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114711#msg-114711 Pete Construction Zone Tue, 07 Mar 2017 12:00:00 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114708#msg-114708 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114708#msg-114708 http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1506.html for the dyno... 90% of peak torque from something like 2k to 6k RPM, redline out at 7400ish. That's like what, $3-400 for the engine off car-part?]]> mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Tue, 07 Mar 2017 11:07:57 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114700#msg-114700 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114700#msg-114700
Anyway, all that meant was that Ford put a Duratec label on the Volvo engine when it was put in a Focus. Big whoop. They also put the Duratec label on a Mazda engine when put in a Ford.]]> Pete Construction Zone Mon, 06 Mar 2017 21:52:12 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114696#msg-114696 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114696#msg-114696
A quick googler... Wiki

The B5254T3 is a 2.5 L (2,522 cc) straight-five. Bore is 83 mm (3.3 in) and stroke is 93.2 mm (3.7 in) with a compression ratio of 9.0:1. It is turbocharged and intercooled with a power output of 220 PS (162 kW; 217 hp) at 5000 rpm with 320 N·m (240 lb·ft) of torque at 1500–4800 rpm. On cars with the AW55-51 automatic transmission, torque is limited in first and second gear.[131] It has VVT and uses the Bosch ME 9.0[132] engine management system.[133] Unlike previous designs, the turbocharger is integral with the exhaust manifold.

Adaptations of this engine were used by Ford, with power levels ranging from 220PS (217 bhp)[134] to 350PS (345 bhp).[135] At Ford the engine was called "Duratec-ST",[136] "Duratec ST"[137] or "Duratec RS".[138]

Applications:[139]

2005–2008 Volvo S40 II[104] badged as S40 T5
2005–2008 Volvo V50[104][140] badged as V50 T5
2007 Volvo C30 badged as C30 T5
2006[141]–2007[142] Volvo C70 badged as C70 T5
2005[143]–2011 Ford Focus[132] badged as Focus ST[144]
2009[145]–2010[146] Ford Focus badged as Focus RS[145]
2011 Ford Focus badged as Focus RS 500[135]]]> Mad Matt F Construction Zone Sun, 05 Mar 2017 20:37:50 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114695#msg-114695 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114695#msg-114695
I wasn't aware that Volvo had anything at all to do with FoMoCo enginery. Mazda made the fours, Ford made the sixes, and Volvo made the chassis.

I thought, anyway...]]> Pete Construction Zone Sun, 05 Mar 2017 18:26:03 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114694#msg-114694 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114694#msg-114694

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mekilljoydammit
I know the 2L NA version anyway has FoMoCo cast into it so I can't imagine anyone could identify a Mazda 3 2.5 vs a Ford Fusion 2.5 block.

There's Volvo bits on the ecoboost as well.]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Sun, 05 Mar 2017 17:11:10 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114690#msg-114690 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114690#msg-114690
You ain't seen "fun" until you seen a 3.7l Mazda 6, either. I don't think you could fit a finger between the timing case and the strut tower. Step 1 in replacing the water pump, or almost anything else, is "Remove drivetrain from vehicle."]]> Pete Construction Zone Sun, 05 Mar 2017 12:25:02 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114688#msg-114688 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114688#msg-114688 mekilljoydammit Construction Zone Sun, 05 Mar 2017 09:52:26 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114687#msg-114687 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114687#msg-114687 Pete Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 17:27:15 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114684#msg-114684 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114684#msg-114684

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fliz

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Pete
I could source the 2.5 block from a Mazda 6 so I could claim it is a Mazda engine...

Is that still a requirement for anybody? I thought it was taken out a few years ago.

Gotta get that Mazda contingency money yo!]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 16:21:06 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114683#msg-114683 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114683#msg-114683

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Pete
I could source the 2.5 block from a Mazda 6 so I could claim it is a Mazda engine...

Is that still a requirement for anybody? I thought it was taken out a few years ago.]]> fliz Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 15:33:11 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114682#msg-114682 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114682#msg-114682
The downside is, it looks like for only a little more outlay relative to an Ecoboost + controls pack + turbo-specific necessities, one could build a really kickass 2.4l motor. 2.5 block, 2.3 crank, 2.0 direct injected head (apparently this is the best Duratec starting point), decent rods/pistons/cams, the usual intake and exhaust requirements, 330+hp naturally aspirated at sane RPM. No need for porting or valvesprings or other such expenses, either.

Well, I gots TWO RX-7s now, and I could source the 2.5 block from a Mazda 6 so I could claim it is a Mazda engine...]]> Pete Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 14:28:52 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114681#msg-114681 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114681#msg-114681 I skipped the ranger pan because it was cast aluminum, but it should work just fine.
Retro-Ford has a steel rear sump duratec pan, but it's $$$.]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 11:37:50 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114680#msg-114680 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,114680#msg-114680
Is there any reason why a Ranger oil pan would not be workable with the Ecoboost? I do understand that it requires eliminating the balance shafts.]]> Pete Construction Zone Sat, 04 Mar 2017 08:47:17 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107531#msg-107531 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107531#msg-107531
so many engine options]]> tdrrally Construction Zone Fri, 17 Jul 2015 18:15:54 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107530#msg-107530 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107530#msg-107530

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tdrrally
http://www.autoblog.com/tag/project+ugly+horse/

That's where we got the idea for the NC trans initially.]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Fri, 17 Jul 2015 14:03:23 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107526#msg-107526 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107526#msg-107526 http://www.autoblog.com/tag/project+ugly+horse/]]> tdrrally Construction Zone Fri, 17 Jul 2015 11:13:59 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107479#msg-107479 Re: 2.0 Ecoboost to RWD, A Brief How-To https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,106139,107479#msg-107479

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RALLYRS

Just to verify....this was the NC Miata 6-speed(normally stock bolts to a 2.0 Mazda MZR/Duratec)
6-speed trans that went KABOOM whilst mated to the swapped in ecoboost?

Yep. Stock NC 6spd gearbox.]]> Robert Culbertson Construction Zone Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:39:29 -0500