Rally car building and designing forum https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/list.php?5 Wed, 13 May 2026 06:09:57 -0500 Phorum 5.2.15a https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118514#msg-118514 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118514,118514#msg-118514
I have one I used for like one event and can’t find any mention of how except in the instructions they say should be recertified every 5 years.]]> krisdahl Construction Zone Thu, 19 Feb 2026 12:31:25 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118502,118502#msg-118502 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118502,118502#msg-118502
I've been trying to gather information on anti/prosquat values from different appliances regarding 4 link rear suspension setups. The literature around the subject is bang on rally secrecy and I'm trying to wrap my head around where to start planning the geometry. I understand the concept itself, but trying to apply the theory to practice appears to be different story.

The car is K11 micra converted RWD (dont ask :spin:) powered with Ford OHC and T9 transmission. Front suspension is derived from starlet/micra with bilstein shocks. Rear end is 1031 from 240 volvo, dana lsd and currently in the making regarding suspension. Will be used on loose gravel / ice, but occasional tarmac is not outruled since some of the folk tracks has sections of tarmac.

To the subject:

Rally anarchy sticky is good bit of knowledge. I've been looking in to different ready made 4 link sets and the suggested values for the link lengths puts the setup range roughly from 0% antisquat to -200% prosquat depending on the rig and set.

Latelly in rallycross and folk racing there has been 3 different cults how to setup the cars:

1. Near 100% Antisquat i.e. the rear end is neutral upon launch:




2. Over 100% Antisquat i.e. the rear end lifts the chassis heavily upon launch:
https://youtube.com/shorts/4zEXNya_ajg?si=X0ncPzZlmiAu-vK4

3. Pro squat i.e. the rear end sinks heavily during acceleration:


?t=30

The questions & thoughts:

Every setup has it's pros and cons (any thoughts?) and benefit to different driving styles (which benefits which?) but I'm having hard times to apply these pros and cons in my own plans.

What comes to 4 link setup, most of the subjects are about which setup launches the car best from the line, but barely none talks how different setups affects on the first corner and aid different driving styles in entry, mid and exit of the corner not to mention how the different style of setup affects the spring rates and damping values etc.

Sorry if I posted this to wrong subforum, but I didn't find a separate tech section. There's lots of secrecy around the subject and I'm trying to join together all bits and pieces of this very scattered subject and share it with everyone after I've applied the science to my own testings.

Please join in, the word is free and I opened this topic mostly for sharing your knowledge and mine. My history is on track, tarmac and with FWD so needless to say I'm bit in the woods atm.]]> Seppo44 Construction Zone Sun, 05 Oct 2025 09:32:43 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118491#msg-118491 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118491,118491#msg-118491
I know it would be alot easier to use a manual transmission but I have hip issues so can't use a clutch anymore. I've looked at older 4l40 for my car under 2000 lbs but it might be better to use a 4l60 because I'm going to tune whatever engine to atleast 250hp. The 5l40e looks good but my ultimate goal is a 6l45 from a cadillac cts. I'd love to drop in the 2.0t ltg from one to make it easier but I can't seem to find if the motor is the same width and height as the smaller brother 1.4t. The pontiac solstice seems to be with the 2.0t lnf engine, though it's very hard to find a motor and transmission for a decent price.

Anyway if anyone knows if the ecu can work with a different tcu that didn't come in the car or if there is a way to get them to.

There are some guys that are trying to hack it to use a different transmission, so I am sure there must be a way since a gm ecu and gm fwd or rwd all uses the same software. The only thing that might be a problem, the drivers might need loading from a cadillac ecu into the cruze's ecu.

If anyone knows anything or can suggest a person or company that can do this, please chime in. Here in Canada, there isn't anyone that understands enough about how the tcu and ecm works. What i understand, the ecu has the shift points and tells the tcu when, then the tcu does its thing controlling the transmission. I might be wrong though, lol]]> Opelgt73 Construction Zone Wed, 02 Jul 2025 10:11:23 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118463,118463#msg-118463 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118463,118463#msg-118463 ccund98 Construction Zone Thu, 18 Dec 2025 08:34:43 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118456,118456#msg-118456 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118456,118456#msg-118456 shakaraka Construction Zone Tue, 12 Nov 2024 17:29:44 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118450,118450#msg-118450 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118450,118450#msg-118450
Unfortunately most of the threads I've been reading are 10+ years old and some pretty full on builds. Most are missing photos and probably more serious than ik looking to get right away.

I just purchased a 1987 RX7 with an ns5.0 swap that's almost complete. It's running but needs some final assembly. it's relatively stock, some headers and some tuning software. Should be putting out around 210 at the crank.

I'm looking to get this running pretty quick and race it in a few localish rallyx races in British Columbia Canada. Some in Pemberton and some in the interior. All timed so no cages necessary.

Looking to get some info on any must dos before hitting the dirt. Anything that need welding reinforcing or some cheap quick mods that will keep this thing in one piece!

Also looking for info on some springs and shocks that may give me a little more clearance without breaking the bank.

I basically want to get in and run the car see what I like and don't and maybe get more serious next year. Or maybe just keep it cheap and fun!

The car is currently on the original 4 bolt hubs but it's come with parts to swap to 5 bolt with stainless lines so I'll likely do this pretty quickly.]]> Ceptwrench Construction Zone Sat, 07 Sep 2024 00:48:23 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118417,118417#msg-118417 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118417,118417#msg-118417 Gravity Fed Construction Zone Mon, 25 Sep 2023 12:37:32 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118233,118233#msg-118233 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118233,118233#msg-118233
Anybody else have any better ideas? Maybe there's a check valve or pcv that could go in the line to prevent oil from just flowing out of it?

Like I said probably a dumb question.

By the way this is the old black and red xr4ti that has been posted on here about for last 15 years. We raced it back in August and had engine issues so I put a 2.5L Duratec in it with a turbo. It should see another event this summer.]]> Perry Construction Zone Wed, 17 Mar 2021 10:28:26 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118231,118231#msg-118231 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118231,118231#msg-118231 msport54 Construction Zone Thu, 18 Mar 2021 10:26:09 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118220,118220#msg-118220 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118220,118220#msg-118220
It’s a street car that will see a lot of our local dirt roads, and I’m trying to protect the oil sump, oil filter, and alternator. It may see some rallycrosses later on too.

My question is basically about the thickness of the laminate. Many years ago I helped a friend lay up composites for a skid plate for his VW rally car. Trouble is, it was late at night, we were drinking beers, and it was 17 years ago. I can’t recall how thick we made it. We used primarily kevlar with a few layers of carbon sandwiched in between to lend additional stiffness to it.

It won’t be a flat skid plate, I was figuring some ribs would be implemented into the design to reduce flex.

So...any ideas? 3/16” thick? I really can’t remember what we built it up to, but I want to say it was like 30 layers of 5.5 oz Kevlar, but that could be the beer talking.]]> Ascona73 Construction Zone Wed, 17 Mar 2021 10:04:13 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118207,118207#msg-118207 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118207,118207#msg-118207
I have learned a lot from other people's build posts and forums are a great way to document things, so here I am!  This will also get some other eyes on what I'm doing, which is always appreciated.

Quick background: This is Dave Kern's old car, which I bought in 2020 from the guy he sold it to.  I didn't get too deep into anything that year, just updated some safety gear, fixed some basic items, ran a few RallyXs at dirtfish, before running (and finishing!!) Olympus!  So from here on out the plan is to conduct some reprep, repairs, and maybe some choice improvements.  Tentative plan is to run at least Olympus and TDF this year, and I'm thinking a bit about a few others...

Big ticket items so far coming out of Olympus:
-Alignment, fluids, new rear pads, etc. etc.
-LR wheelbearing is very loose
-Famous E36 trailing arm threaded insert failure (the crack has realized it's full propagation potential, and the insert is now completely separate from the rest of the car).  I will reinforce both trailing arm mounts and the 4 subframe mounts while we are in there
-Fabricate a new exhaust. 
Ours came off on the first running of Nahwatzel.  My crew chief effected a successful repaired with a spare exhaust flange, steel wool, and chicken wire as pictured below (which actually quieted the car down a TON inside).  Suspected root cause: I am pretty good about getting bolts tight (knock on wood), and this flange was no exception... before Olympus, the exhaust was out while I did the throw-out bearing, and I noticed the cat was COMPLETELY hollowed out and gutted.  So in the (foolish?) interest of rules compliance, I cut that one off and had a friend weld a new one on.  Unfortunately, the flanges ended up just a few degrees off after, which seemed fine once I stacked a few more exhaust gaskets in between the flanges, and it appeared adequate (if slightly leaky) and everything felt tight and sturdy.

I think what happened is that, as we were hitting yumps and bumps and catching a bit of air, the exhaust was bouncing and pivoting in such a way that the previously gapped flange ends met, removing preload on the bolts and causing the nuts to vibrate off.  I know for a fact the muffler hangers were still attached while the front of this exhaust section was dragging on stage, and eventually the whole thing ripped off.  I'm pretty if I had used Nylocs instead of re-using the old nonlocking hardware, this could have been avoided.

There is actually quite a bit I have already fixed, so I will trickle some of those pictures in as I update this thread with more "current" events.

-Sage]]> LooseEntry Construction Zone Thu, 18 Feb 2021 13:49:51 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118176,118176#msg-118176 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118176,118176#msg-118176
My floor mounted pedal box reservoirs will sit in the lowest part of the whole braking system and will be installed directly on the master cylinders (below calipers, lines, connections).

In my opinion this should not cause any ill effects but at the same time most cars have the reservoirs mounted remotely in a higher location (under dashboard, cage, etc).

Is this purely to make maintenance easier or are there other reasons?]]> adee Construction Zone Wed, 04 Nov 2020 22:57:49 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118096,118096#msg-118096 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118096,118096#msg-118096
No it's not a rally build, but the amount of info and detail is pretty impressive.

Some good duratec porn in there-and some cringe worth carnage pics too.

And Man-I want that valve cover.

Especially now that everyone and their mother is putting cheap junkyard Fusion 2.5's into everything(Foci,Mazda3,Rangers,mx-5's,Bmw's,rx-8's etc. etc), this link seems appropriate.

Speaking of swaps-I ordered another part for the worlds slowest happening 2.3 to 2.5 Focus engine swap last night ...Billet T/B that adapts the DBW 2.5 intake manifold to good old cable T/B like God (or the spag monster) intended cars to have.

That being said, I'm daily driving a Mazda3 that's already been swapped to a 2.5, and the DBW isn't terrible.

It's a little better than the DBW on my 2015 Mazda 6 2.5 skyactiv. They just seem laggy...

Perhaps a tune will help...I like Cables though....


Anyway, concerning this link......

You can navigate the pages by clicking the header links or pics on the left.

Here it is:

http://duratecindetail.com/


.]]> RALLYRS Construction Zone Mon, 22 Mar 2021 00:56:28 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118036,118036#msg-118036 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118036,118036#msg-118036
Several years ago I purchased a Focus SVT for the intent of building a rally car. Now several years later I am tired of staring at this car and am ready to throw money in the trash and build it. In any case, the car was a rebuilt car as it appears it had been in some sort of roll over. The damage included the greenhouse, the crash bar, and the passenger door. This was repaired and bought as you see it in the pictures. My concern is I can tell where the green house meets the rest of the car and see a few crumpled areas. I am wondering, if the intent is to cage the vehicle does this matter? I am sharing some pictures of the "problem"below for your reference. Any insight would be appreciated. I wont even begin asking more questions since this seems to be the more crucial one.

Thank you,

- Baudelio]]> body311 Construction Zone Wed, 22 Jan 2020 09:33:25 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118028,118028#msg-118028 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,118028,118028#msg-118028 EagleSX Construction Zone Wed, 22 Jan 2020 09:54:24 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117921,117921#msg-117921 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117921,117921#msg-117921
So I've been working on my cavalier a little bit. The plans are to clean up the rust, and make it safe enough to get into another accident. The thing is, I got into a rear end accident a little while ago at like 10-20 mph and it did a lot of structural damage (or at least exposed the structural damage that was already there due to rust

This car isn't really worth saving I know, but it was my first car, and I want some practice cutting and welding stuff before I start fabricating stuff for the Volvo. Plus, this one starts up...haha

My plan is to cut out the areas that are too rusty and to make patch panels to go over them. And for the rear, the plan was to weld in new frame rail around where it crumpled by the bumper, and to make a custom bumper made out of tubing (Like a drift car bash bar)

Does this sound like a good plan?]]> LexusFman Construction Zone Thu, 05 Dec 2019 21:41:52 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117904,117904#msg-117904 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117904,117904#msg-117904
Stripping the undercoating garbage off and stitch and seam welding for the unibody.

But what if you are building an old school style Flexi flyer ladder frame vehicle for rally?

Box the frame and maybe add some crossmembers?

Do people still do stitch/seam welding on the body or is that a waste of time with the body being mounted on bushings to the frame?]]> RALLYRS Construction Zone Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:48:30 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117887,117887#msg-117887 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117887,117887#msg-117887
A jdm engine appears to be about the same cost as a diy rebuild. Any advice on which way to go? I've done a lot of engine work before, that part is no big deal. I could put better rods and forged pistons in it while I'm there. Obviously JDM is easier. The tune is not an issue, I have ways to handle that. The rest of the engine looks good.

I have plenty to do on the car without getting into all this work, but I feel like I'll end up refreshing a long block no matter what after a while. Maybe better to just start with something fresh.

Advice, observations, random heckling?]]> Perry Construction Zone Thu, 07 Nov 2019 09:21:29 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117866,117866#msg-117866 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117866,117866#msg-117866 Hope y'all are ready for a story as old as time, a man finding his true love.

It all started when I moved from the West coast of this fine country to the durty souf. If seen some rally on Armed forces network when I was stationed in Japan. Even went to a tarmac rally but never really got but by the bug. That all changed when I got to the Carolina South and went to my first proper rally. The sandblast rally hosted my NASA. So I bought a Subaru as any nobard would with aspersions of driving it like McCrea or Solberg. Subaru did not offer the STI in hatchback in '15 so I got a Crosstrek instead. I promptly entered my first rallycross cause I felt I needed to learn to crawl before I could walk the walk. Boy did I have a lot of learning to do!
Let me take you back a little bit further... (Close your eyes and scroll down if you DGAF about dessert racing) it ALL started in Junior high with an SP100 Suzuki dirt bike. That's where I saw the dessert racing trucks skipping across the dessert terrain that I found difficult too navigate my little dirt bike on.
I got my first Baja bug in highschool, then went on to build a Ford explorer that me and my best friend raced and created the TotalPozerRaceing team.(this truck is still alive and well in southern California) We later built a Toyota that we never raced but best to shoot in the desserts.
Back to the rally story! When I moved here to SC I thought I left all that behind. But the rally bug bit me and I started rally cross in the Crosstrek. I got a rusty wrench for my first trophy (for being last in class as well as running the slowest lap of the day). But fuc, I had watched the videos of the wrc guys driving sideways and thought was the way to go. Found out slow and controlled is fast. Ended up getting several first place finishes. But I was beating the shit out of my brand new car!
So I bought the DangerRanger]]> SnakPak333 Construction Zone Sun, 09 Feb 2020 20:08:07 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117777,117777#msg-117777 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117777,117777#msg-117777
Can anyone suggest a good shop in the Southwest US that I can talk to?

Thanks!

Bill]]> bilwil Construction Zone Thu, 21 Nov 2019 12:27:05 -0600 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117763,117763#msg-117763 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117763,117763#msg-117763
I'm aware that everything under the sun is available for the 240, but of course the 740 had to be different.]]> Pete Construction Zone Tue, 16 Jul 2019 05:57:33 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117753,117753#msg-117753 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117753,117753#msg-117753 "The pillar of a front rollbar (or the front pillar of a lateral rollbar or of
a half‐rollbar) must follow the windscreen pillars as close as possible"
but then it seems very difficult to get access to the baseplate/floorpad/mounting foot to weld. I have seen many A pillar bars go to the front of the door opening.
Thoughts? Preferences?]]> Frank Gossett Construction Zone Fri, 25 Oct 2019 14:59:20 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117733,117733#msg-117733 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117733,117733#msg-117733 DirtyDave Construction Zone Wed, 02 Oct 2019 20:19:49 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117707,117707#msg-117707 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117707,117707#msg-117707

• It's a 318ti
• Cage was a t45 kit from custom cages
• Suspension is reiger I got on a deal
• it's staying with the 1.8L M42 for now
• I have a Link standalone for it

]]> Gravity Fed Construction Zone Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:51:39 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117672,117672#msg-117672 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117672,117672#msg-117672 rallyfreak202 Construction Zone Tue, 11 Jun 2019 15:41:10 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117551,117551#msg-117551 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117551,117551#msg-117551
Just wondering if any of you could help ease out a small problem that we have just now.

I noticed on an earlier post that someone was fitting Twin DCOE-type carb intake manifolds to an injected Volvo B230F 16V head.

Right now I am looking for those very things for a tarmac Volvo 343 Asphalt Rally Car built, for a client, that we are fitting with a Volvo 740GLT 16V engine.

Do you happen to know of anyone that manufactures, or simply sells, such a thing?.

Many thanks for any help you can give.


David Hockey,
Proprietor at RetroSport, Scotland]]> accentto Construction Zone Thu, 28 Mar 2019 12:34:28 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117530,117530#msg-117530 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117530,117530#msg-117530
My question is which of these two cars is better (cost and ease of repair) to start with. I know BMW has rally suspension and cage kits available from established sources, but what's out there for the Volvo? Are there any other good rwd options?]]> Zach Gould Construction Zone Tue, 16 Apr 2019 10:47:12 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117519,117519#msg-117519 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117519,117519#msg-117519 rallyfreak202 Construction Zone Thu, 28 Mar 2019 20:01:22 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117511,117511#msg-117511 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117511,117511#msg-117511 b00sted Construction Zone Thu, 01 Oct 2020 07:21:53 -0500 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117398,117398#msg-117398 https://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,117398,117398#msg-117398
So my question is, if I put smaller front brakes on it from a normal golf, should I also put the smaller rears on from the golf? or can i just leave it? I can fit a 15" rim over the gti rear brakes...

I'm concerned about brake bias basically. I dont want to have to add a proportioning valve.

THanks!!!
Steve]]> SideburnsSteve Construction Zone Sun, 25 Nov 2018 22:39:10 -0600