Hey all,

We were guided over here by Dave Shindle. never knew this site even existed, but seems like it will be way better than that other site.

Anyways, we are a new team and shop. My second attempt at building a rally car is looking a lot more promising. Had a freind do my last cage and it totally sucked. Now another friend, but a shop, is doing this cage and Andy Smith already said that it looks pretty good. We are still in need of finishing up a few more things on the cage, but it should be completed this weekend.

RallyNY is the event of choice for the first outting.

On to the pics...

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the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still hours to go before i sleep.
www.brokenmotorsports.com

Welcome..

Maybe it's the picture angle but the front cage legs don't look so good, especially the drivers side.

oh man dont tell me that. Im really hoping that this car will get a log book. The last one was so far gone that i had to just sell it as is and took a decent hit.

The front A-pillars will be tied in with the front hoops.

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the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still hours to go before i sleep.
www.brokenmotorsports.com

Broken Motorsports Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> oh man dont tell me that. Im really hoping that
> this car will get a log book. The last one was so
> far gone that i had to just sell it as is and took
> a decent hit.


Gotta be honest, it shooooooore as hell looks whacky.
Please, pull the dah and shoot some piccies of what we can't see with dash in place.
Let' hope somebody hasn't gotten all like "creative" on your ass.
Cause if they did, you're gonna have to (to borrow a cultural reference from a great film) "go all medieval on his ass"
>
> The front A-pillars will be tied in with the front
> hoops.

That's nice, but the question Gene (being a real honest to goodness salty old scrutineer ) needs to know is do the tubes blocked from view do something wacky?

And this of course if for your own good, ultimately.
>
> the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still
> hours to go before i sleep.
> www.brokenmotorsports.com



Anyway, Welcome aboard to Rally Anarchy.
"We're not like the others, we're your friends" heh.....heh heh...

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

haha good to know. I asked him to take some pics of those points so i can see what is going on there. I will most likely be going out to take a look at the car this weekend so i will try to get as many detailed pics as i can.

Thanks for the help.

_billy

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the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still hours to go before i sleep.
www.brokenmotorsports.com

'with a pair of pliers and a blow torch'.


love that line.

good luck with the cage man.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

To be more specific, the floor plates need to extend up to the sills. Ideally you want to make towers off the sills. The flat of the floor is not the strongest place to mount. And the cage everywhere is pretty far away from the body. I'm guessing this was done to gain access for welding all the way around but there are other ways to accomplish that and keep the cage tight against the roof.

You will find us a tough crowd as a lot of us are cage builders. Not to be assholes but we want to see things done right.

Doivi - i really appreciate the criticism here. Afterall this is mine and my co-drivers life.

Thanks,
_billy

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the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still hours to go before i sleep.
www.brokenmotorsports.com

Don't feel bad. It took two tries for me to get the cage into my car, I was wimpering, but these guys set me straight. It only takes a few sawsall blades to get the bad out. Remember; its only metal. You can't just cut off your head and weld a new one on there.

It sure would be helpful if we had a thread of pictures of good cages and bad cages. I have some of both.


-Al

Broken Motorsports Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Doivi - i really appreciate the criticism here.
> Afterall this is mine and my co-drivers life.

EXACTLY.
But remember this: You'll either get better or grow a new one.
The car doesnt heal on its own.
As such, I always suggest thinking hard about ways to make the bodyshell survive even when the big boo-boos happen.
Getting the front bars tight, literally against the rood line (just above the door) and nestled against the A pillar really supports that big hole for the windshield if you attach it with either several L tabs or just stitch.

And stitching now is hardly that much more work.

A stichwelded body shell is stronger so it'll suffers less AND the damage has a better chance of being "contained" to where you hit the car, when you hit it.

I've seen a non-rust Xratty spin around, hit a tree with the bumper dead center and split the sills from rear up to the base of the A pillars, break the windshield, tweak the hood, in short destroy the body shell hitting on center in the bumper.

Now think how bummed he was selling me his car for 300 bucks---imagine if it was a caged car you had split up like that.

Now if for some reason you have to re-do a few tubes in the front, look at it as the opportunity to make it so much better.

With the people here at RallyAnarchy, you can do a better job.

Gotta ask, what are you planning for suspenders on the car?


>
> Thanks,
> _billy
>
> the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still
> hours to go before i sleep.
> www.brokenmotorsports.com

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Most of what's being potentially criticized is on the second picture, the driver's side front leg looks like it has something weird going on behind the dash, maybe some crazy bendy action or non-continuous bar.

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Grant Hughes

This cage reminds me of another car that I saw supposedly done in the greater newark area....the welds were sweet but everything was soooo far away from the body, those front leg floor mounts look similar to. Does a guy from nasioc with avatar starting in "P" ring a bell. I am curious and don't want to say in case it is not him.

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

found more picts on the dirtyimpreza...





http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8655

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

Keep in mind pics can be decieving but...

The 1/2 laterals were bent downward a bit too soon at the windshield header. Bending that bar an inch or two later would put the bar much closer to the windshield pillar.

The 1/2 lateral (in a Sube) should be mounted on a box made off of the sill . That puts the bar maybe 1 1/2 to 2" further outward. That bar being outward then gives much more lower leg room, obviously allows the cage to impact sooner, allows the door bars to be out where they should be. Then that 2nd lower bend shouldn't be needed to straighten the bar out.

Again this is observations from 2D pics. I would encourage you to seek out the scrutineer back there and get his blessing before continuing. It may be better in person.

Gene McCullough
NRS/RA Western scrutineer

Suspenders?

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the woods are lovely, dark and deep. and still hours to go before i sleep.
www.brokenmotorsports.com