Tom B Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> We run the 10.1" brake setup (soon to be 11", it
> is mucho easy to get rid of the antler ears there,
> definitely lots of cars to interchange with. I'd
> be interested in seeing someone draw up an adapter
> for an aftermarket multiple piston caliper that
> would work with an 11" rotor....maybe a caliper
> that is readily available on ebay on the cheap or
> something like that?!?
>
> __________________________________________________
> _________
These guys have kits for that already;
http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/braking.asp
Not cheap, but it's tuner boy stuff. It's extra $$ 'cause it's bling.

totally missed this thread until 2 secs ago.

I've been re-thinking my brake setup so I'm curious what you guys come up with.

-e

tmachnik Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> __________________________________________________
>
> > _________
> These guys have kits for that already;
>
> Not cheap, but it's tuner boy stuff. It's extra
> $$ 'cause it's bling.

It is about $20 worth of adapters, plus 2 dynalite caliper, lines and pads. A fair price if you were to buy the parts separate...

The big problem is that the dynalite calipers are not so nice...flimsy design, horrible bleeder setup, no dust/dirt seals....There is a reason they are so cheap.

---

____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So are ya saying that we should try and find those
> cores to make mo better?
I'd think so. Specially since the better knuckle is far more common in junkyards these days.

> Are there any guys out there with the Elk Atler
> style?
Probably, you just gotta convince them to upgrade!

> Yeah yeah.... He was stuck in 2nd, and 2 cylinders
> were dead. Neeener neener!
>
> And and (I love this one cause its SO STUPID)
> and You had home town advantage!!!!
> Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!
> !!

Well my codriver's baby bottle was stuck under the gas pedal and my nuts were itchy!

And if you're doing something for the front and you want to get beefier in the rear try bolting on the stub axle/brake setup from a mk4. Bigger stub axle with a regular sealed-type bearing (no taper bearings to adjust) and a larger brake disc thats just a disc, no integrated hub and shit. You'de have to weld and redrill the flange for 4x100, but thats simple for you. Then you get increased strength and you dont have to mess with wheel bearings if you need to change rotors in a quick service.

I know duplessis was saying he had issues with cracking the rear stub axle.

I measured the bolt pattern for the mk4 stub axle setup once upon a time. But that was a few years ago and that scrap of paper is long gone. But they're just holes, if they're in the wrong spot move em!



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2009 08:17PM by Carl S.

There are tons of these setups everywhere! All Mk3 Golf's and golfs with asses came with em.

I have a neat trick (one that will probably go away when I figure out how to run 15inch rally rubber like the motorsports guys did) but you can use the stock caliper carrier and rotors for a 10.1 setup that fits inside of of a 14" wheel then when you can run a larger wheel (like I will for hillclimb use) you swap in 11" rotors and the caliper carrier from a B4 passat or a rado... and wala bigger brake swap without the need to crack a brake line!

John,

9.4s (and I think 10.1s) came in two strengths. Look at the arm that goes from the bearing carrier to the ear holes. Earlier ones are thinner and bend VERY easily. Something weenie road racers aren't going to notice.

All of the A2 stuff (thin and thick) bends. I went thru lots of knuckles with my VW but we were on some Bilsteins and twin chamber Sachs that probly weren't as good as a lot of guys use today.

I machined all of my calipers for an adaptor and had a set of clapped out Lockheed 4pots. Machining the knuckles is pretty easy if you have a mill with a rotary table.

Got tired of chasing problems with the Lockheeds and finally put Corrado stuff on shortly before I sold it.

I think all the A3 stuff has the heavier arm (still not that beefy) going from the bearing to the ears, but not sure. A3 stuff was too new back then!

Protege stuff is 3x as durable. A little heavier, tho.

---

Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

sigh two hands just don't cut it in this world I want to do all this trick stuff
just need some more people that can donate parts cars ect and leg work I still have
day dreams of irs rear they couldn't have made it easier to set up ether. on the ps
pump deal bring a car for a few days and tear in to a car and mount it up done and
then copy it. for some one that wants the pump ill do it for about free if they help
and have a car hear

I have a front arm I am going to mock off of and do adjustable front a arms 3/4 high
misalignment on the knuckle and back mount. It will be a one peace I am not a fan
of the two peace and adjusting the two peace is a little more involved

---

TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

SteelSolutions Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
I still have
> day dreams of irs rear they couldn't have made it
> easier to set up ether.


Do tell more. I would love to see a design that maintains the stock fuel tank...

---

____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

handed a arms one side would just be shaped narrow with a lot of reinforcement and
the other side would be ideal shape and they wold be same mounts so if theirs no
tank then just get two normal ones. It would mount a beam to the original mounts and
you would have camber and toe.

I have about all the materials do make one its just someone wants one bad enough to
be the first and pay for materials and cheap labor I can put one together. I don't
see why they cant be done for under 600 bucks whats two himes and 100 bucks of
tubing and some hardware.

---

TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

I used the 11" corrado stuff and the only thing I ever broke was bending the steering arm once when removing the wheel from the car with blunt force on a rock wall.

---

In the long run reality always wins.

I amazed you never bent a spindle/hub assembly Derek.....

we bent one or two on the rabbit, but they were fairly lightweight pieces of crap though

---

-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

Tom B Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I amazed you never bent a spindle/hub assembly
> Derek.....
>
> we bent one or two on the rabbit, but they were
> fairly lightweight pieces of crap though

Don't worry, we'll use your knuckles as pre-prototype Beta version 0,5.0

And your tubes are all done and inserts should be here this week.
I'm sure you're ready and Robert is too since he wants 2.
>
> __________________________________________________
> _________
> Fine Tuning | DemonRally
>
> "If everything seems under control, you're just
> not going fast enough." -- Mario Andretti
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.