Wow, lot's or great responses! Thanks folks, way better then the response over at the TB site.

Not a lot of time today to work on it.

Martin, I checked the resistance across all four injectors. I think I need a new multi-meter as I got 20 ohms on each (or maybe they are higher resistance?) and 15 ohms through the wire measuring back as you suggested. My guess is this is my very cheap gauge, unless you think otherwise. I didn't have the car running today to check the O2 sensor.

I will check timing belt as suggested, likely not til tomorrow now.

As for compression, John is likely right, with probably more then 600k Kms (the odo stopped working in the late 90's...) my guess is the compression is down and the head is well welded to the block, but worth a check. (man I was surprised it would "ping"

I would have thought the shop would have checked fuel pressure, I thought I asked them if they did. Maybe maybe not, but yes I think I need to confirm this. I'm a long way from my real shop tools still, so need to find a gauge...

I ran it close to empty, twice, no change.

Montreal Gazette "Found: Across from La Fountain Parc, one copper volvo, looks cool as hell, but sounds like S#$t!, would the rightful owner please come and remove this leaking mess from the curb!"

Matt

IAC. thats the issue.

The Idle Air Controller is a motorized valve that allows some air to bypass the throttle plate. If it screws up you can have high, low or no idle, but whatever air it passes still comes through the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor so it won't be the cause of bad engine running. If the hoses to the IAC came off their respective ports then unmetered air can get in but Matt carefully checked for intake leaks.

It'll be something simple when it gets found.

I had some similar (but not exactly) issues with my '85 740t. I'm not sure how similar my 7 is to your 2, but I'm betting it's pretty darned close. I have LH 2.2 and EZ117K.

For me, it turned out to be several things that all coincided.

I started with testing the pumps (fine) and then stupid fuel pump relay under the center console. The solder joints were on the borderline of being cracked. Solder gun and 10 minutes, and it was fine again.

Swapped in a new FI controller, still had issues. Then I found that the harness was shot, as in the injector wires' insulation disappeared, so at any point in time there could be complete grounding to all injectors at once, or no injector signal at all. I ended up taking a harness from my '95 escort (had the same Bosch injector connectors) and using that for the injection harness. I also installed a couple of LED's to injector #1, aka 'noid light', so I could see the signal to them.

After the harness was fixed, I still had some other problems, turns out the injector ballast was iffy, so I got a new one of those. While I was at it, I also got a new Power Stage Amplifier.

Things still werent' working as good as they should've been, and so I ended up splicing the main feed wire to the injector ballast, and adding the 'radio suppression relay', a misnomer if I ever saw one, as all it does is power the injectors.. After the relay was installed, no problems any more.

I actually think that aside from the completely crappy harness, the 'radio suppression relay' had the biggest single effect out of the bunch.

--sarge

---

---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

OP:

Have you got your Volvo running well now?

Hey John and folks,

No... I have been pulled away from it because of time, and we took the opportunity to buy our first ever car made in this century! Sooooo I think it may turn into a rally shell!!!!

I will get it sorted, but time right now is pretty short, and so it will be a few weeks til I can get back to it.

I did check a few more of the listed items, but have yet to put a timing light on it.

I will update with the final problem (or ask for more help!) shortly.

Cheers,

Matt