Hello, all.

I save ya the usual junk, but I am a newish guy to the sport, have only volunteered at a few rallys here in NY

Life has now changed in such a way that I can now start looking for a 2nd car... Id like to start doing rallies. I'm looking for a used car... anyway, my question is- as a noob to this stuff, what class of used car should I be looking for? PGT?

2wd. It's pretty heavily biased towards rwd here, but there is info on fwd as well.

I was sure for 2WD and Id probably go RWD because I aint got the cash or time to hit events to far out of NY; So seeing how I'm not exactly going to be trying for outright wins, I might as well have some fun, right?

What I was really asking was when someone sells a car and calls it "PGT" or "G2" etc. Is there, as a beginner, a certain class I ought to be looking at?


Thanks for taking the time to reply.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2010 05:14AM by BobOfTheFuture.

G2 is lower HP 2wd, G5 is open class 2wd.

In RA you wust start in G2 unless you have much previous racing experience.
In NASA you can start in anything you want.

Get a strong reliable G2 car.

I thought you could also start in group 5 or open light??? Isn't the restriction just on turbo awd....

if only these things were written down somewhere.....

http://rally-america.com/info/Archives_2008/Rule_Bulletin_2008_015.pdf


There, they are written down. So its Group 2, Production, and Open light. Although, as SP is a production class..... Ahem... haha

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DirkaDirkaJack
if only these things were written down somewhere.....

See, I know and have read some of the rule books and understand where you're sarcasm is coming from, but as in most rule sets there is what I "could" start with and what I "should" start with. I could take a soild axle drag car to a HPDE according to the rules, but obviously that isnt a good idea.

I dont know all the in's and out's of rally well enough yet so I asked people who knew better.

G2... cool. Thanks again for the reply, and If any of you know of one for sale other then whats in the classifieds in the 5-7K range let me know.

How much are you looking to spend? I vote you buy that awesome looking black focus. Now I'm going to be flamed by Grant, John, and possibly someone else because its front wheel drive and will be hard to find a close ratio gear box for (which practically no one has, anyway).

welcome, friend.

for $5-7K, a little luck, some careful planning, and a deal with the devil we should be able to get you into a nice little rallly car. Speaking of solid axle drag cars, have you looked into the volvo 240 ?

I am in NY... so most of the 240's ive looked into I could see right through as well.

I havent seen a prepped one for sale at all yet. Ive taken the advice as truth that its cheaper to buy someone elses prepped car.

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Dazed_Driver
How much are you looking to spend? I vote you buy that awesome looking black focus. Now I'm going to be flamed by Grant, John, and possibly someone else because its front wheel drive and will be hard to find a close ratio gear box for (which practically no one has, anyway).

Well that would compliment my DD SVTF nicely. I wouldnt mind that car at all but Its out of my price range at the moment, the distance from me reduces my spending power at the moment.

I think I saw someone selling a close ratio box on Specialstage a while ago...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2010 06:25AM by BobOfTheFuture.

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BobOfTheFuture
I am in NY... so most of the 240's ive looked into I could see right through as well.

I havent seen a prepped one for sale at all yet. Ive taken the advice as truth that its cheaper to buy someone elses prepped car.

That is a truth that is only very occasionally true.
But it is a "social marker' or, a phrase that is repeated by people to display that they're "part of the group",
The real argument that buying somebody else's project that they (got tired of the uncompetitiveness or the cost of some unreliable POS they didn't prep very well, or the simply and I believe most common , simply not as fun as they thought considering the money spent) are selling is the answer to is "How do I get into an event quickest?"

It MAY be cheaper, it MIGHT cost less unless:

the cage is out of date substantially or
The cage is flat wrong or
the suspension is pure crap glorified street junk or
the wiring has been vandalised severely or
the engine is stock million miles junk or
the gearbox is stock POS stock junk or
on and on and on so that basically EVERY system and sub system needs
re-doing or replacement or upgrading to real rally spec ANYWAY


which has been the case in EVERY used rally car I have seen (for less than $20,000)

So be careful, as always, with believing a simple truths "what everybody says".

10-4. A ready built car helps me out in other ways too. Where I am, I am short on space. Where the car will be is just enough for a car basically. It is too far away to be there every day for the off hours building. I am planning on 1 or 2 rallys a year as a hobby, so i figure that is enough time for repairs.

I would plan on bringing someone who knows cages with me on a purchase. Im pretty well competent on the rest.


But to look at the other direction, building, does a car need to be in tub form to have a proper cage put in? I was under the impression this was true. If not, building may still be possible for me. If, say the motor can remain in the car for the cage it would become alot easier for my present situation

Gutting a car down to tub, or having one like that around for a while isnt a problem. Having one like that occupying the same space as the parts need to as well, is.

I ask this cuz' there is a sweet RX7 over here for an ok price with a narsty interior and 80K that would be a fun starting point.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2010 10:35AM by BobOfTheFuture.

My car remained driveable the entire time the cage was going in. We're privateers.