Matt Brady Matt Brady Junior Moderator Location: Pittsburgh, PA Join Date: 10/25/2010 Age: Settling Down Posts: 16 Rally Car: G2 Merkur (in progress) |
Hello,
I've been following rallyanarchy for quite a while and at last chose to join up. Somehow or another, I got sort of addicted to rallying. As of right now, I am lucky enough to be at the seam welding stage of a Merkur build for competition in Group Two (3L Duratec to T5) funded on part of six years of soccer referee's wages. I am indeed aware that, being on the low end of the age spectrum, I am rather inexperienced and that you all know quite a good deal more than I, but I guess that's why I am here: to have some good fun and I guess, above all, to learn something in the process. Oh, and I apologize beforehand for any uneducated commentary. Matt |
12xalt "oh! you're the one!" Professional Moderator Location: Hazel Dell, WA Join Date: 02/22/2008 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,390 Rally Car: 1974 Dodge Colt, under construction |
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phlat65 Sean Medcroft Mega Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Welcome! you chose a great car to learn in, as it can progress with your skills, is easy to work on, easy to drive, and pretty darn strong. Feel free to ask me any questions, and I will happily show you how I did mine. My 1986 XR has finished the 4 Rallies we have entered, with minimal re-prep, and we have improved our results every time.
I will jump John here and ask what you are doing for suspension? Brakes? The two most important things in my book. |
Matt Brady Matt Brady Junior Moderator Location: Pittsburgh, PA Join Date: 10/25/2010 Age: Settling Down Posts: 16 Rally Car: G2 Merkur (in progress) |
Alright, thanks.
Honestly, I was planning on opting for JVABs, suspension is the stuff about which I know least, and from what I can gather, those apparently are one of the few options and they are really good. As for brakes, I was going to do a rear disc conversion and replace the fronts with a better set. I'm on a bit of a budget, and I know brakes are quite important, but I was going to use Focus SVT rotors (I think they're 11", so should fit with whatever wheels I use, Saab or otherwise, thinking about that NASA-Konig contingency) for the front, at least. There are a few calipers that apparently fit nicely on these with a plate that shouldn't be difficult by any means to make. One more notable issue, actually. Where do you guys end up finding these Supra diffs? I may be stuck welding the whole thing, both because good diffs cost money and I honestly can't find any of those things. |
phlat65 Sean Medcroft Mega Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
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mothra Matt Smith Infallible Moderator Location: Wilmington NC Join Date: 03/31/2006 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 546 Rally Car: xr4ti |
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Matt Brady Matt Brady Junior Moderator Location: Pittsburgh, PA Join Date: 10/25/2010 Age: Settling Down Posts: 16 Rally Car: G2 Merkur (in progress) |
I'll keep the diff options in mind, see what happens.
At first glance, the SVT stuff seemed sort of logical because of that 4x108 pattern, then I found a few people talking about calipers. The one Merkur forum I found seemed sort of useless, a bunch of people doing aesthetic stuff, but thanks for the tip. Considering the hat issue, what do you all use for brakes? I guess I would be willing to spend a bit more on the them. This being my first time out, I have to fit into group two (at least for Rally America). The Duratec seemed like a good way to drop myself into group two while also lightening the front end a bit, and the car I bought had the block and that was it. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
I can't keep up with the convolutions of Rally Americas class things, I was sorta of the impression that a 3,0 in Gp2 would have to be a PUSHROD 3,0, like the Ranger 2,9 V6 bore +1mm but I guess I should check. I have been helping a sorta local street guy do a 3,0 Duratec 24v twin turbo into an Xratty and I haven't asked him what he's going to do to mate it to a trannie since as far as i know the bellhousing is unique and I don't know any rwd applications--but then again i don't keep up on anything really except 4 cylinder motors. But there's a pretty good rule on projects: just cause you got something for free doesn't mean you have to jump thru endless hoops just to use it... We should yak on the phone, I can't type fast enough. |
NoCoast Grant Hughes Godlike Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
XR4ti is a sweet car. Personally I'd never bother with an engine swap. The only benefit of going to any Duratec would be the weight savings on a 2.3.
Sell that piece of shit 3.0L and find a good 2.3T. It makes plenty of easy, cheap, and most importantly, reliable power. You could always pull the turbo and run a few events NA if you had to. For brakes, I think there are only two smart ways to approach them. Plan to do this: |
phlat65 Sean Medcroft Mega Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
I have Johns front brake set up on, Willwood calipers, alluminum hats with 1.125 thick circle track rotors. It was not alot of money, and it works very well. Grant has the same front set up. By the time you bought all the SVT stuff, 2 rotors, brackets, and 2 good calipers, you are looking at $400-500.
John could probably put you in his front brakes for around $600? just a guess. The calipers bolt to the knuckle with no adapter! |
NoCoast Grant Hughes Godlike Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
And TCE rear brakes were 800-900 if I recall, but I also had to ship a hull rear arm and hub to him just to be safe. Now it's been done and he should have the program to replicate the calipers as well as record of what off the shelf parts he used. The hub will have to be turned down slightly in outer diameter. That'll be the case with John's front hats if there's ever a design to use those in the rear as John planned.
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Its out in bay 2 jigged up. |
Matt Brady Matt Brady Junior Moderator Location: Pittsburgh, PA Join Date: 10/25/2010 Age: Settling Down Posts: 16 Rally Car: G2 Merkur (in progress) |
Thanks, I'll get on that soon enough. The 'Burgh isn't exactly the best place for finding parts like that. Rally America has a cap at 3080cc and has a 0.8 multiplier for pushrod and I think that's it. NASA has the cap somewhere in the 2600s, but I can run their equivalent of group five since they don't have novice ruling. The displacement actually fits nicely in both regs, it'll fit both if I toss on a turbo later on, as well. Grant, I would do that, but I already bought the Duratec and have it partially apart. I know those 2300s are really good, but for the first couple years the lower weight and significantly better NA performance might be worth the effort. I'll figure something out for bellhousing, but it's been done in track MX-5s before, so it's somehow possible. Alright, thanks for the brake advice. I have a feeling I'll be buying a good bit of John's stuff over the next several months... I may still try to use some of the standard Focus brake stuff on the rear unless I have some extra money left over at the end. Hey, they're better than those accursed drums...
Quite good advice. John, if it's alright, I'll call you in a couple weeks. Being the youngin' that I am, I have to finish up a couple of college apps this week. That is one of the few things that takes precedent, and I left them off a little bit longer than I might should've. ![]() |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
I agree with Grant. You COULD just find a n.a. HEAD for the turbo bottom end and MILL THE PISS OUT OF IT. Like .060" buy a cheap lumpity lump stick and TRY IT. Then swap back the turbo schtuff later. Sell the SHO stuff, save all the unnecassary fucking around. The boring old 2,3 can do everything you need and can be had for $100. |