I'll bet you a dollar that in two years you'll either be done and moved on to another project or this one will be sitting partially done.
When it comes to rally cars, the more simple the better. Getting out on stage ASAP is key.

Stop worrying about classes. Only two matter. 2WD and AWD. If you're in 2WD, you're off in the right direction.

You probably are not getting any benefit from a 3.0 Duratec.

Well, you guys know what you're talking about, I guess I should listen.

The only stumbling blocks to work out with the 2300: I can't use a turbo yet unless I run NASA, and those events are considerably less feasible (distance, timing, etc.). I know power and competitiveness aren't the main concern as a beginner, but my worry is that a NA 2300 will barely make enough to get the damn thing moving, especially if I keep the CR low. In my case, a big plus to the Duratec was that I have a friend who will machine the basic stuff for me in exchange for a degree of participation in the whole thing, so I don't really have to do the work, just measure things. And I don't really have access to extensive machine shops, so the less internal work I have to do on the engine, the better.

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Matt Brady
Well, you guys know what you're talking about, I guess I should listen.

The only stumbling blocks to work out with the 2300: I can't use a turbo yet unless I run NASA, and those events are considerably less feasible (distance, timing, etc.). I know power and competitiveness aren't the main concern as a beginner, but my worry is that a NA 2300 will barely make enough to get the damn thing moving, especially if I keep the CR low. In my case, a big plus to the Duratec was that I have a friend who will machine the basic stuff for me in exchange for a degree of participation in the whole thing, so I don't really have to do the work, just measure things. And I don't really have access to extensive machine shops, so the less internal work I have to do on the engine, the better.

In addition to JVAB Soooper bitchin Suspenders, I build lots of hi performance 4 cylinders. I've built or supplied all the parts for every Saab that has won a Gp2 National.
and major parts into 2 that woonGp2 Titles---when that meant more than you simply towed and puttered...

The TURBO pistons have VERY shallow dishes, the lower compression stems from a much larger chamber.
So, when i said MILL a N.A. head 0.060, I wasn't joking.
Mill it 060 and get a THIN say 030 headgasket and you'll have enough compression for a decent cam.
Compression and cam are inter linked.

Then OK it might cost an extra $155 but get a shorter final drive---$155 NEW! for a 4.88

That combo will scoot...

This idea is sounding quite a good bit better. Seemingly less effort. Hey, I'll miss the fuel economy and weight drop, but whatever. Probably a stupid question, but I should be looking for cams for the NA 2300, or are there more options for the turbo?

You have the 4.88s? Oh, and just for reference, the T5 I ended up with (I think) has 3.35 in first to .68 in fifth.

Actually, a bit of an amendment. I do want to keep this running on pump gas if at all possible, at least when not at events. Probably another stupid question, but would it be pushing it to keep two separate heads?

Remember, lots of those 2.3 NA motors running at circle tracks around the country, so good NA stuff is out there.

I would not be concerned about the weight of the 2.3 My car weighs 2730 lbs ready to rally, and has like 51% front, 49% rear weight balance with the 2.3 Turbo. I spent $200 on a turbo coupe engine, tore it down, rings, bearings, cleaned up some ports, and it make tons of power on pump gas, idles smooth, starts every time, and gets 20+ mpg commuting to work. I think I have less than $800 in the whole engine.

As john said, compression, and final drive gearing and that car will be way faster than you need. 100mph through the trees is very scary!

Listen to these guys, don't worry about all the small things, get out there and rally as quick as you can. My build was 9 months start to on stage, for right at $8,000 with all the safety gear. It is a very potent car. i know that if someone with experience drove it, it could win.

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Matt Brady
I can't use a turbo yet unless I run NASA, and those events are considerably less feasible (distance, timing, etc.).

If all it takes is an extra four hours of towing to avoid months of engine swapping and dollars on other parts and fab and you get to run the engine you want... I'd tow the extra few hours.

I'm sure everyone here will attest, after a season, the towing distances that can be done in a day all become kinda moot when picking events.

Cheers

Anders
Disclaimer: yes, I'm a NASA guy, and my goal is getting more grassroots guys to events.

---

Grassroots rally. It's what I think about.

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Anders Green

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Matt Brady
I can't use a turbo yet unless I run NASA, and those events are considerably less feasible (distance, timing, etc.).

If all it takes is an extra four hours of towing to avoid months of engine swapping and dollars on other parts and fab and you get to run the engine you want... I'd tow the extra few hours.

I'm sure everyone here will attest, after a season, the towing distances that can be done in a day all become kinda moot when picking events.

Cheers

Anders
Disclaimer: yes, I'm a NASA guy, and my goal is getting more grassroots guys to events.as easily as possible

Fixed that there for ya Andrei

You guys have pretty much made up my mind for me, I think I'll try to work the 2300. The NASA rallies I can feasibly run are Rally TN and maybe Black River Stages. And if WV runs for some reason, that would work quite well. Honestly, for events that run so rarely, I don't mind driving 12 hours or so.

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Matt Brady
You guys have pretty much made up my mind for me, I think I'll try to work the 2300. The NASA rallies I can feasibly run are Rally TN and maybe Black River Stages. And if WV runs for some reason, that would work quite well. Honestly, for events that run so rarely, I don't mind driving 12 hours or so.

Good!
Stay in touch, I think I can safely say we have it down on staying on the fattest part of the dollar spent to laugh on stages curve and that's the real issue.
Call me when you have: fully charged batteries and a pen and pencil handy for notes.

Just a teaser, here are a few of John's Merkur parts

The Front Brakes:



The Suspenders:


Parts of the rear beam stiffener kit I came up with that John and William produce





My design E36 BMW differential install with 4.10 and LSD (John has a sweet Supra kit)



Front tow hook/skid plate mounts



Here you can see the longer and stronger shock mount tabs that come in the Beam kit



I think you get the idea....

Playing with those will be so nice after all the prep work...

I'll call soon.

Hey nice to meet you
the bases are all covered so build it and get out there and spinning tires.

Another car to beat me getting out and playing sigh!

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Matt Brady
You guys have pretty much made up my mind for me, I think I'll try to work the 2300. The NASA rallies I can feasibly run are Rally TN and maybe Black River Stages. And if WV runs for some reason, that would work quite well. Honestly, for events that run so rarely, I don't mind driving 12 hours or so.

XR4TI's are loads of fun on the tarmac stages at Rally Tennessee......