Im a newbee and need advice

obviously I look bad because I cant figure out how to get the craigslist add to appear so niftily as the others can - well maybe that can be another thread post later - I can attend a "tutorial" or something... more about me, Im a newbie to rally, however had the "disease" (automotive obsession) since childhood - and no, I dont have a dad or brothers that were into cars...
the vehicles Ive owned & maintained : my 73 duster, a 72 IHC scout, '87 milano verde, and of course my tacoma ( I only have the duster and tacoma now) I have put myself thru some training that includes tool making machining, welding, collision repair with a smattering of auto tech classes. I have turned some race parts for friends that dragrace. I can fit into smaller cars and my hands fit well where others' can't (no lude jokes yet please) I mean as far as reaching hard to reach stupid parts on foreign cars. I am glad that ya'll dont expect me to go fast the first few times...what a relief. theres a cute little GTI that sits out in my 'hood - but Im pretty sure thats a FWD car and Im not too keen on that unless its awsome - I drove a ford probe once and it felt strange but that thing made it pretty far up a snowy hilly road with bald tires, so I was impressed

Thanks again for everyones 2 cents and quarters even !!!

Ooh, what's the opinion on the RX-7 here on Rally Anarchy?

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Matt Brady
The car itself doesn't actually matter that much. Yeah, it's valuable to spend time trying to figure them out, but I think it's more important just to get a good, easily buildable base and get started. I spent way too long trying to decide on the perfect car, ended up getting an XR4Ti. Sure, I'm happy about it, but in retrospect, I probably would have been just has happy with one of the Volvos or with a MkII Golf.

I'll bet a whole nickle that when it came time to get a haft decent gear set for a Golf at $2000, and a shorter final drive at $500-750 and a limited slip diff for $750-900, that getting gears for a Volvo or Xratty for $380, shorter final drive for $10-155 and be able to weld the diff, or get the right Supra that already has a 4.3 and LSD for $30-200, that you'll be smiling a lot more.

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There are a number of good options (I think most have actually been listed up here). Choose the one that best fits what you want to do. I stuck with the Merkur because it's RWD, is a damn good base for a car, and it was closer than the smaller of the Volvos. It'll be fun no matter what.

Just being out in the woods beating on anything is fun.
But somewhere in the bloodstream I bet there's some competitive virus cooking and seething or we wouldn't be typing here but on some other forum talking about Cold Air Intakes and Blow off valves that make cool sounds.

A relatively large, and immensely strong Volvo or Ford which needs zero engine work and a few external bolts on to give more power than you need, and easy to find and adapt other junk to make the car fully capable of very high overall placings---when the bugs in the bloodstream reach the pathological level, that's MORE FUN than selling a car you spent so much on cage etc but then tired of or faced a mountain of costs to take it up a notch..

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And yes, stick with 2wd.

Of course.

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Matt Brady
Ooh, what's the opinion on the RX-7 here on Rally Anarchy?

Some lurv 'em.
I'm a fan of the simplicity of the motors but the rest leave me cold.
The motors are now 25 years older than before, and rebuilds are very costly---and they need it.

For me there's just too much weak and lame in the first gen cars, the second hgen are proven OK or if you're good, they're "fine".

But they're short, and all alternate bits are very spendy..

No real clear advantage, lots of basic design liabilities.

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I'll bet a whole nickle that when it came time to get a haft decent gear set for a Golf at $2000, and a shorter final drive at $500-750 and a limited slip diff for $750-900, that getting gears for a Volvo or Xratty for $380, shorter final drive for $10-155 and be able to weld the diff, or get the right Supra that already has a 4.3 and LSD for $30-200, that you'll be smiling a lot more.

True. And besides, RWD is just more fun.

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Just being out in the woods beating on anything is fun.
But somewhere in the bloodstream I bet there's some competitive virus cooking and seething or we wouldn't be typing here but on some other forum talking about Cold Air Intakes and Blow off valves that make cool sounds.

Also true. I guess that underlying competition aspect is part of the appeal, too, part of the fun.

Ha not to throw back to the original topic


I have fallowed trucks my whole life and have been to the Baja 1000 500 and 250, you like trucks Why not
put one together if you don't have rally as a huge goal in life why not build a truck or pick one up your in
cali theres rangers explorers tacos full size fords chevs that will throw down some serous fun on a gravel
road. All I would weary about if you went more to the prerunner style truck is keep it on the low side and
make sure it doesn't do 3 wheel motion in the corners.

I had a 2 door Rwd 5 speed Exploder that I could make people turn white on a dirt road.
Rip loved that truck and it was free









Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2010 11:06PM by SteelSolutions.

thats beautiful Steelsolutions!
- explorer! someone was just trying to give me one of those on the phone probably while you were writing - ha -back to the truck - Ive lost my friggin mind - what am I talking about a gti, ppst- FWD car anyway stock. I know the right one will come to me, and then look out everyone! haha just kidding, Im probably gonna be a chicken for the first few .... Mmminutes... no really Im a chicken after seeing those 30 degree turns with "nothing" over to the right