T-5

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heymagic
eat project Tim.

EAT PROJECT, TIM! *rude gesture*

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heymagic
We'll see what Michel or Timm want to do.

Well, maybe we can get it on a nor/sou express. Seems like there should be someone coming up to do Olympus from here. Or do you need to get rid of it pronto?

Picky fuks... NEAT project

Wait, Tim Tim or Timm Me?


You did put two M's on it....

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Dazed_Driver
Wait, Tim Tim or Timm Me?


You did put two M's on it....

Does it really matter, you're never going to finish that garage queen



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2011 06:01PM by Tim Taylor.

Hey John, that reminds me:

Are your redblock<->T5 bellhousings for GM or Fnord snouts?

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hoche
Hey John, that reminds me:

Are your redblock<->T5 bellhousings for GM or Fnord snouts?

They're for the GM box. The Frod shifter box thang is about a hands width further forward on all USA cars so in a Xratty or a 240 if you don't use some swooopie back stick you'll be changing the radio station ever 1st, 3rd and fifth gearchange.
The GM thing has the box in same position as the T5 for the Cosworth and shfter is short and nice..

Of course the S-10 thang you'll be goosing the co-driver in the nuts on 2nd and 4th shifts, outta keep him awake anyway.

I hope you don't plan on rebuilding that flathead, everything for those is expensive.
I am still looking for parts to finish my '38 ford truck... anyone have a dual carb intake and a spare Holley 94?

Naw, you goose yourself on the 2nd shifts and the codriver on the 4th ones. Equal goosage for everyone. It's a commie thing.

At this point having that as a GM adaptor sure makes things easier. Otherwise I'd have to mix'n'match. Sorta like, well...






Well, clearly, I need to charge up the ol' cell phone and give you a call.



Edit: meh. That embedding thing didn't work as well as I'd hoped. Oh well.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2011 03:41AM by hoche.

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Robert Culbertson
I hope you don't plan on rebuilding that flathead, everything for those is expensive.
I am still looking for parts to finish my '38 ford truck... anyone have a dual carb intake and a spare Holley 94?

It's going to run in stock form for the first outing to stay on budget. After we blow it up the first time we're going to get stupid. The max 0.187" overbore removes about 16lb of cast iron from the block, I can easily fix aluminum heads that most people toss, and we have a guy on the team who is a professional motorsports wiring/engine tuner. Best guess right now is that it will end up with an intake that uses two racks of gutted motorcycle carburetors as air doors with crossed CAN-AM style intake trumpets...because we can

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Tim Taylor

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Robert Culbertson
I hope you don't plan on rebuilding that flathead, everything for those is expensive.
I am still looking for parts to finish my '38 ford truck... anyone have a dual carb intake and a spare Holley 94?

It's going to run in stock form for the first outing to stay on budget. After we blow it up the first time we're going to get stupid. The max 0.187" overbore removes about 16lb of cast iron from the block, I can easily fix aluminum heads that most people toss, and we have a guy on the team who is a professional motorsports wiring/engine tuner. Best guess right now is that it will end up with an intake that uses two racks of gutted motorcycle carburetors as air doors with crossed CAN-AM style intake trumpets...because we can

What about the Angry Hamps-turd?

That looks like a 59a block, does it have the later crank with insert rod bearings or the early style with floating rod bearings? The inserts are much nicer and way cheaper/easier to work on.
As far as the multi-multi-multi carb setup, that sounds awesome and should look great. I though of doing two or three S&S carbs on my truck, but common sense took over.
To help with over heating get new water pumps for sure (might not need aluminum heads), the ones from mine on tear down were in pieces.

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pikespeakgtx
What about the Angry Hamps-turd?

Still have it and we'll probably race it at at least 3 events this year.

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Robert Culbertson
That looks like a 59a block, does it have the later crank with insert rod bearings or the early style with floating rod bearings? The inserts are much nicer and way cheaper/easier to work on.
As far as the multi-multi-multi carb setup, that sounds awesome and should look great. I though of doing two or three S&S carbs on my truck, but common sense took over.
To help with over heating get new water pumps for sure (might not need aluminum heads), the ones from mine on tear down were in pieces.

It's a 59a block. We're not even going to open it up before racing it to see what bearings it has. Just adding an accusump and running it until it blows up. I was planning new water pumps and the aluminum heads are partially for weight reduction...same deal on the eventual overbore and fancy intake, cast iron is heavy.

I've stuck the S-10 tailhousing on the back of stronger T5 transmissions and adapted them to the late flathead using the stamped steel bellhousing. Wrote it up and it's been "general knowledge" on the HAMB since then.