Dazed_Driver Banned Senior Moderator Location: John and Skyes Magic Love liar Join Date: 08/24/2007 Posts: 2,154 |
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240tshead Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
Well, the thing is with my lifters is that if I got them upside down the cams wouldn't even be able to sit in their brackets. My lifters are buckets and slide down over the springs. As for wheels I will look into Circle Racing or Diamond Racing, which is another huge steel wheel company. The reason I am looking into smaller wheels is because my wheels are 16" and I heard that basically the only 16" rally tire is sold in Europe ans shipping alone would be more than a set of new wheels. I am looking into 15" wheels. and thanks, photoshop is amazing!
Yes, one of my biggest obstacles here is money. That's why I don't plan to hit a stage until after the world ends, in 2013. LOL. Kidding, but I'm gonna be hard pressed to hit Rallye de Paris (which is the one I want to start with) in 2012.
Fortunately I have the FSM downloaded right on my computer. I'll be checking all of that stuff today as well as doing a leak down test and possibly pulling the head. |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Well some might claim that i have some clue around motors and when I'm working on sheeet I's never done or only done a few dozen times, I always carry the BOOK out and flop it right on top of things, and its alleged that i have a good memory and attention span---alleged that is. You trust yourself to look at a confuser screen then run out to the garage and hammer on the motor then run back and read the next line? Print out the section, stick it in a binder (with a nice bright color so you can't lose it!) and carry it to the car. And hang on on the wheels to find some 15" alloys, steels are way disposable, especially if you get some decent suspenders and can ram into shit. You'll kill steelies in short order with a car that weighs what yours does. Just slow down with the spending money on schtuff. |
240tshead Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
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With respect, I'll disagree on killing the steel wheels. Refer to my last post on how many stages we have run with them and have lost air from just one. We bent a rim at Maine Forest on a mid sized rock, but that was only due to the fact that we were running Kuhmo tires with their rather soft sidewalls deflecting all the way into the rim. With a Michelin, we would not have had that degree of deflection and would not have bent that rim. Never have had a steel wheel bend or distort just to hard running or years of hard, teeth-jarring bumps and jumps. We did have a rim bent so badly on a paved stage 'step' with a poor sidewall tire that the rim was bent into to where it banged the outer tie rod end every rotation; kinda scary at 90 MPH! But it never lost air. This experience includes the ligher Opels and the very heavy Starion which is around 3600 lbs with both drivers and fuel. I'd spend my $$ on good tires like Michelins and such with stout sidewalls and not worry about the steel rims. Now, John part of your experience could be valid with your beloved Saab's. The stock steel wheels on 99's were pretty much guaranteed to break out a center at least once per rally. I saw lots of 99 ralliers carry 2 spares all the time just due to this. But that was the exception, rather than the rule. Regards, Mark B. |
Well here's just a tidbit from the lessons learned department: An old rally buddy was hopping up a Vega enigne years back which had the same type of inverted bucket followers over the springs. After one mod, the inner adjust on the lifter was stacking up a bit on the edge of the retainer instead of just on the valve stem. Eventually, it wiggled the retainer down just enough for a keepr to loosen up and when that worked out, soon thereafter, the valve dropped. The rest 'was (bad) history....' as they say. So, with the hydraulic thingie that I read was in your lifters/followers, you could have somehow blocked out the oil flow and created super large valve gap, or gotten something askew. Just something else to keep in mind. From your symptons description, it sure does sound like you could have something amiss and have a large follower-to-valve gap on one valve. The Starquest 2.6l sounds pretty bad in that way when we flip a hydraulic lifter in the end of a rocker or one just goes bad; a large valve to lifter gap results and it will really bang away. Since you have been working in that area, I still suspect that pretty strongly. OBTW, did you strictly keep all of the followers in exactly that same holes? If you swapped even one pair by mistake, you probably have killed a cam lobe. Mark B. Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2011 04:04PM by starion887. |
240tshead Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
Well the upper valve train is still 100% intact and free of wear. I think my engine design is a bit different from the Vega and Starquest, though. No way I blocked the oil and it was literally brand new oil. The lifter buckets were put EXACTLY where they were supposed to go to. When I reset everything and start her up I'll make sure it's on video so if it comes up, ya'll can hear it. I will througholy examine my buckets again tomorrow for signs of wear though. Double checking never hurt anything. I still think it's something to do with the timing because the car ran just fine for 30-40min then it made noise #1, and then felt and sounded like something slipped and the car jerked like it caught again, THEN it made horrible noise #2. |
DaveK Dave Kern Ultra Moderator Location: Centennial Join Date: 07/11/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 1,085 Rally Car: Compact M3 & Evo IX |
When I had an Impreza RS I picked up steelies from a local dealership for ~$100 a set. Bent one rim my first event. Didn't lose any air, but it was bent enough in the middle (between mounting surface & outer rim) that it gouged the brake caliper just finishing off that 1/2 mile run. Bought another one for $25 and never had problems again. For hillclimb use I've gotten flats from hitting big rocks, but can't remember ever bending something: 323gtx I used nothing but OEM alloys - 14x6 and ~$25 each Evo - Compomotive TH3 ~$125 each used Evo - Team Dynamics ProRally ~$50 each used BMW - Compomotive TH ~$50 each used If you're not in a rush to buy parts, you may just find you can wait for good deals on alloys. I ran Diamond Racing wheels on my Miata track day car a while back and the big problem with those is that there isn't much airflow so I was overheating the brakes much faster. Also, there may be wheels you can use from another make/model if you do some digging around. For example I know of another guy with an Evo who used Diamante wheels at $25 each from local pull'n'pay lots. Dave |
RallyxPOS13 Matt Miller Professional Moderator Location: WichitAr, KS Join Date: 12/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: rallycross Nissan 240SX |
Regardless of which side of the SR/KA battle you're on, Martin's advice is sound. The $300 or so you'd throw at a running KA24DE won't get you all that far into rebuilding your current motor. Then you can keep your old motor around for when you have a budget for a performance build, or spares if the need arises. You haven't mentioned the milage on your motor, but from my experience, when the valve seals start leaking, the plastic timing chain guides are about ready to let loose, and could have been a contributing factor in your motor jumping timing. I wouldn't button it back up without replacing them. -Matt |
240tshead Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
I would like the experience of doing stuff like that, though. That's why I'm sticking with this motor. I have a spare short block...and it's newly rebuilt to stock specs, that's why I want to save it to be my built motor. And thanks, I will replace the guides too.
As far as wheels go, I know that 94-04 Mustang wheels are perfect fitment for 240s. But I'm not sure if they come in 15s...I will have to look into that. |
Dazed_Driver Banned Senior Moderator Location: John and Skyes Magic Love liar Join Date: 08/24/2007 Posts: 2,154 |
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240tshead Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
Well the engine isn't THAT bad. It still ran after the incident happened....just very rough. And that would actually be more expensive and take longer because I would still have to find a good head, get a head gasket, and head bolts for it and THEN exchange it. I'm not saying I don't appreciate all of your help, (because I really do!), but I'm pretty sure I got this one.
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
I kept saying to him on the phone that something was gnawing on the back of my brain about the plastic chain guides or skids, but I hain't a KA24DE doood so it's some vague memory.. Those things die do they? Good to get you on here for this. |
heymagic Banned Elite Moderator Location: La la land Join Date: 01/25/2006 Age: Fossilized Posts: 3,740 Rally Car: Not a Volvo |
They are worse in reputation than reality. Chains usually give issues when the motor is older than dirt and some Fast and Furious type gets their hands on it. The twin cam didn't really have the problems, the single cam was more noted for it and Nissan did an upgrade on the guides around 1995 or so. Not really a deal breaker and they normally rattle pretty good before failing. |
RallyxPOS13 Matt Miller Professional Moderator Location: WichitAr, KS Join Date: 12/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 21 Rally Car: rallycross Nissan 240SX |
Gene's right, the twin cam timing chain guides are magnitudes more durable than the SOHC motors. Still, 150,000-180,000 (assumed) miles of a metal chain flailing on a piece of plastic is about due for replacement, and since you'll have the head off anyway...
For wheels, it sounds like you're 5lug, so head down to the nearest pick-n-pull and grab a set of crown vic wheels, towncar wheels, or something like that. They'll be 15", RWD offset, and if they're built to keep up with the weight of those land barges, they should take a rock hit or two. It sounds like you're planning on removing the emissions. When yanking the EGR(and AIV) out of the exhaust manifold, don't do some ghetto repair like the nickel and JB Weld stuff I see on all the forums. Just run to your nearest Nissan parts counter and grab a(two) part # 14052 - 21R00 plug(s). They are under $10 and make it seal perfectly, and are reversible. |
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