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starion887
starion887
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starion887
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 07:22AM
Yep, that's a bad set of rust there. It would have to be a pretty rare car to go in an fix that and try to rally it. Park it in the back and move on.

Sorry for the bad news,
Mark B.
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BJosephD
Brian j Dyer
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BJosephD
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 07:38AM
Why not buy a logbooked car. there seems to be a few on special stage... that way all the hard work is already done.
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Rallymech
Robert Gobright
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Rallymech
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 09:14AM
What Kieth said! "My advice might be to slow down a bit and really give some thought to what you want to do and how you want to do it."


Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.
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Greg Donovan
Greg Donovan
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Greg Donovan
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 09:55AM
Quote
GuinnessFox
Well, I will part this one out. TONS of nice new parts I can yank. Won't be worth a stack, but I can make this work. Hood, hatch, blah blah blah.

I can't seem to find other stangs with this fiberglass hood and this hatch... they are all the sedan type.

the mustangs with a trunk instead of the hatch are more desirable for racing. they are a bit lighter and the chassis is a bit more rigid as well without the huge whole in the back.
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Morison
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Morison
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 10:07AM
Quote
BJosephD
Why not buy a logbooked car.
There are countless reasons on both sides of the 'buy a prepared car' fence.

In general - you are buying something someone doesn't want anymore and there needs to be a reason they don't want it anymore. Unlike some, I don't automatically assume the reason they don't want it is because it is junk and no longer useful. I recognize some people just tire of a good thing and want to move on to something else.

One of the best lines I heard about buying a used rally car was that you should assume the guy selling it is trying to kill you. In other words - go through the car from one end to the other and make sure everything is right. before buying - as the rustang showed - go through the car in detail to make sure you've identified the big issues with the car.

When you personally build a car from the ground up you know every last inch of it, how it was put together and why. That's tough to do with a bought car but you may learn how other people have done things and in your next car that you DO build you can apply what you learn and incorporate or avoid those ideas accordingly.

I've been a big proponent of buying your first rally car. I've seen several people spend a lot of time/money building cars just to enter a couple of events and leave the sport or park the cars and plan to come back eventually... and disappear.

Some might argue that buying a car so you can enter a rally now, rather than later or never, is about instant gratification. I see the rent/buy your first car option as simple research/investment in a long term goal. It gives you a chance to make sure the sport is something you want to invest in while not consuming a significant investment before you even turn a wheel.

You could buy a $4500 civic this year, run a season with it and sell it for $4500 next year. The cost of ownership would be your consumables and/or repairs, unless you ball it up. To that end, a $4500 civic and a few grand invested with Team O'Neill or Dirtfish would probably go much further than spending $9K on a build. (and help you avoid balling up the car)
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NoCoast
Grant Hughes
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NoCoast
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 11:19AM
Well, do you like working on cars or driving cars?
If you have $9k in your pocket, there is no sense in building a car unless you find it fun to build a car or have a big project planned with a specific car that you want to rally.
If you want the most cost effective way to get on stage, buy a decent used car and get out there.
http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?43391-C-Mon...-Buy-my-Max-Attack-Car
That'd be a good starter car.

If your set now on a Mustang, make sure to ask Mike Hurst for the 'build a top level Mustang for $9k plan.' I bet he'd even be willing to give you suggestions for what to use initially to get a few coefficients under your belt so you can run a V8 eventually. But it might be more cost effective to find a flat top pistoned 2.3 with a carb to start out with. Turboford.org and I'm sure there's some roundy round sites where you can find the right parts to make decent 2.3 NA power.

If rust is a problem, I'd suggest looking to the Denver area. Rust is not really a problem here unless it's transplanted or been totally neglected. Flights from Minneapolis to Denver are almost always $180 to $200 and it's a pretty easy drive, albeit a bit long, but that can also make for a fun experience.
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GuinnessFox
Patrick B
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GuinnessFox
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 12:51PM
The thing is, i am fairly set on a fox body mustang as per parts and ease of upgrades. I am just glad I can come out of this with parts and a lesson learned. Next time, go with a jack and but a working car. Hahaha. Oh well, i know this sounds bad, but it is just money. I will continue stripping the engine and I will sell it to one of those" WE BUY JUNK CARS." Places; get some money back on this. I will be looking at stangs in co, ia and tx for a good frame. I wont be able to buy a new one until August, but I will keep you guys up to date on what is happening with this project. More than likely going to keep the cancer parts for the goodsteel to cut out for future p
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Greg Donovan
Greg Donovan
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Greg Donovan
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 01:19PM
Quote
GuinnessFox
The thing is, i am fairly set on a fox body mustang as per parts and ease of upgrades. I am just glad I can come out of this with parts and a lesson learned. Next time, go with a jack and but a working car. Hahaha. Oh well, i know this sounds bad, but it is just money. I will continue stripping the engine and I will sell it to one of those" WE BUY JUNK CARS." Places; get some money back on this. I will be looking at stangs in co, ia and tx for a good frame. I wont be able to buy a new one until August, but I will keep you guys up to date on what is happening with this project. More than likely going to keep the cancer parts for the goodsteel to cut out for future p

you should call this guy, number is in the link, ad was from may 30th but it might still be sitting there:

http://fargo.craigslist.org/pts/2411207228.html

Quote

I am parting out my 1991 mustang selling everything I have. I will consider any reasonable offer the worst I can say is no.

PonyDown 70mm turbo kit..............................................................................................................................$1,500
PMAS 3" blow through MAF calibrated to 42# injectors..........................................................................$250 or 300 for MAF and injectors
Ford Racing 42# injectors................................................................................................................................$120
AEM wideband gauge w/sensor and different faceplates..........................................................................$120
Autometer boost gauge....................................................................................................................................$25
UPR billet clutch quadrant and firewall adjusted..........................................................................................$30
TrickFlow aluminum tall valve covers with TrickFlow breathers................................................................$125 Covers, Breathers and reusable steel core gaskets
TrickFlow 2 camshaft.........................................................................................................................................$120 or $200 with Cam, 600 lift Valve springs for E7 heads and Clotes Double roller timing chain
March performance polished underdrive pulleys..........................................................................................$50
March performance billet alternator relocation kit.........................................................................................$30
Walbro 255lph fuel pump...................................................................................................................................$50
Ford 306 long block with KB pistions, ported E7 heads and MLS head gaskets ARP head bolts assembled..................$400
There is more but cannot remember everything so text me if you need something and i will see. I am also selling the rolling chassis it is white in color pretty good shape with full interior 8.8 rear end with Ford racing t-lock for $500 with turbine wheels or 600 with Pony wheels.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 06/20/2011 01:22PM by Greg Donovan.
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GuinnessFox
Patrick B
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GuinnessFox
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 08:22PM
Hahaha, i will be up there in a week. I will call him and get some parts for my next rustang. :p
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Aaron Luptak
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Aaron Luptak
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 08:29PM
Quote
GuinnessFox
Hahaha, i will be up there in a week. I will call him and get some parts for my next rustang. :p

I think Greg was mostly pointing out the 'rolling shell for $500' part...
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Greg Donovan
Greg Donovan
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Greg Donovan
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 09:15PM
Quote
Aaron Luptak
Quote
GuinnessFox
Hahaha, i will be up there in a week. I will call him and get some parts for my next rustang. :p

I think Greg was mostly pointing out the 'rolling shell for $500' part...

yep, if it was a drag car odds are it isnt rusty.

if i had 500 and it wasnt too bad i would pick it up and have one of the circle track guys build me a nice 2.3.
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fiasco
Andrew Steere
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fiasco
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 20, 2011 09:58PM
Yeah, the rolling shell might be a Good Thing. Combine it with parts from Dear Liza (there's a hole in the [rust] bucket) and you may just have something.

Maybe not. Be skeptical and carry a big ass screwdriver (to poke at potential rusty bits). And if it's caged, the cage is worth nothing. If it's tubbed for big ass slicks, the shell is worth nothing to you.





I just want to say good luck, we're all counting on you.
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Greg Donovan
Greg Donovan
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Greg Donovan
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 21, 2011 12:14AM
and this is why you should always buy a LOGBOOKED car if you buy a built car:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2440287785.html

Quote

hey, i have a 1987 ford escort gt, it has a 1.9 efi high output engine, also the ecu is out of a turbo murkur allowing higher rpm shifting, stock boddy kit, plastic windshield and side windows, no interior and at the moment no seats,, full roll cage ideal for a practiceing rally driver, car starts rite up and sounds like a monster needs suspension work, a new engine mount,, does need to be towed away...

click the link to see the "cage".



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2011 12:15AM by Greg Donovan.
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john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
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john vanlandingham
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 21, 2011 12:16AM
Quote
fiasco
Yeah, the rolling shell might be a Good Thing. Combine it with parts from Dear Liza (there's a hole in the [rust] bucket) and you may just have something.

Maybe not. Be skeptical and carry a big ass screwdriver (to poke at potential rusty bits). And if it's caged, the cage is worth nothing. If it's tubbed for big ass slicks, the shell is worth nothing to you.





I just want to say good luck, we're all counting on you.

Grape minds stink alike!
Why just a few hours ago i was quoting from that epic masterpiece of celluloid capering and cavorting a few pithy lines to a fellow with a 7 mo preggers wife who was wondering "What is there to do on Cape Cod"

it began with "Say Joey, do you like Gladiator movies"

and ended with "drop the B***h and make the switch!"
Oh dear
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=3815472#post3815472


John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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heymagic
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heymagic
Re: 1984 Mustang GT 5.0
June 21, 2011 12:55AM
Ok, here's my take and it is likely to be a little harsh to some. If you can't spot something as rusted out as that Mustang or have the basic skills to determine why an engine won't turn over then you really aren't ready to attempt building a car. Just my opinion.

Since we can teach chimps to fly rocket ships we can teach you to be a rally builder/owner/driver. grinning smiley

First off, try to find someone who currently rallies and help them...help you. Be a crew member, help maintain a car and work service. Volunteer to help on a car build if you can find one. Volunteer to help at as many events that you can.

Car building or maintaing both take a set of skills and knowledge not many possess. If you can't do the work then you have to pay someone to do the work. That's fine if you have the means. So you need to educate yourself to some degree and you just started in the "Patience young grasshoppa" chapter..(bet most of you f'n kids can't place that).

Buying a car, logbooked or not, can be a near deadly experience. The car may have been poorly built, trashed or flat worn out. I've pulled several logbooks over the years for cars being sub standard or just worn out. Herpes is forever, logbooks aren't. Don't buy a car without trying to get a scrutineer to look at it unless it has competed in the last year or two with no bad crashes since, even then best to get it checked first.

If you learned a lesson and can move forward then money wasn't wasted. The lesson may be a wee bit costly but life is full of costly lessons.
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