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240tshead
is the 248/248 the stock twin exhaust cams from an s13 right? I heard it wasn't worth it but maybe that was without degree-ing them or something. But one thing for sure is that it's a cheap way to go. I wonder if they make any aftermarket production cams for the KA's low end....

the 4.6 gears were traded off of a friend for a holset hx35 off of a 8.9L cng Cummins lol. Anyways they came out of the Nissan Largo...it's JDM so that's why they are basically unheard of. I've been offered upwards of $500 for them but they are near priceless to me. Funny, I've never been about all the JDM tyteness yet one of my prized-iest possessions is straight JDM. With a 5spd the gearing is 131mph.

Yah, what I would really like is a set of 4.40 gears.

Where do the 4.40s come from?

I have a 4.62 in my 240 Stock car... I tried it in the rally car but didn't have the right gear ratios to make it work. 1st gear was useless, but 3rd was nice.. I can't even tell you the exact gear I'm running now 4.09 maybe?

The 4.62 ring and pinion is a front diff from an xterra maybe, I think I have the part number somewhere? I think it was under $400 new, but that was 10 years ago.. it fits an open diff case/carrier. I seem to recall having a 4.36 at some point, but maybe that was my 510 (R610 or R180)...

We were hoping to run LSPR, but budget (or lack there of) determined otherwise.. I was watching the results and twitter all weekend, you did a great job!

BTW... I read the first 18 pages or so of yoru build thread a year or so ago... nice work, looks liek you ran into all the same issues I did. Looks like you run your car a lot higher than I do, maybe the stock tank has a lot to do with that? Mine might be a bit low, we destroyed a lot of the front end at NEFR... well that's were w efinaly destroyed it, but I've been beating on it for 5 or 6 seasons, and this is the first cross member I've changed.

I hope to run in the same rally as you sometime next year.

-Martin.

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MRWmotorsports
I have a 4.62 in my 240 Stock car... I tried it in the rally car but didn't have the right gear ratios to make it work. 1st gear was useless, but 3rd was nice.. I can't even tell you the exact gear I'm running now 4.09 maybe?

The 4.62 ring and pinion is a front diff from an xterra maybe, I think I have the part number somewhere? I think it was under $400 new, but that was 10 years ago.. it fits an open diff case/carrier. I seem to recall having a 4.36 at some point, but maybe that was my 510 (R610 or R180)...

We were hoping to run LSPR, but budget (or lack there of) determined otherwise.. I was watching the results and twitter all weekend, you did a great job!

BTW... I read the first 18 pages or so of yoru build thread a year or so ago... nice work, looks liek you ran into all the same issues I did. Looks like you run your car a lot higher than I do, maybe the stock tank has a lot to do with that? Mine might be a bit low, we destroyed a lot of the front end at NEFR... well that's were w efinaly destroyed it, but I've been beating on it for 5 or 6 seasons, and this is the first cross member I've changed.

I hope to run in the same rally as you sometime next year.

-Martin.

I think the 4.6 gears would work better for me as I dont have to worry about spooling a turbo.

I plan never to miss an LSPR again if I can help it. I consider LSPR to be my home event, its the event that got me into rally, so it will always hold a special place in my engine.

Thanks for reading. It is kind of neat going back and looking at everything I did. I wish I would have taken more pictures. Someday I hope to build a standalone website, and compile all that info.

I do run my car high, and I actually plan to increase the height a little. A little too often I ignore rocks and whatnot on stage, decent ground clearance it a lifesaver.

I would love to run head to head with you. Just think if we could get that Aussie team there too, it would be like a 240 takeover.

Martin, thd xterra you got the ring and pinion from, did it have an R200, or a C200?

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Ian S
Martin, thd xterra you got the ring and pinion from, did it have an R200, or a C200?

I didn't get it from an exterra, I bought it new, based on info from a parts guy, whihc turned iout to be correct.
Xtrerra might have been the application, but I'm sure have the part number, on the oroiginal box, which has the old ring and pinion in it out in the shed 'somewhere'.

I'll dig it out.

-Martin

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MRWmotorsports

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Ian S
Martin, thd xterra you got the ring and pinion from, did it have an R200, or a C200?

I didn't get it from an exterra, I bought it new, based on info from a parts guy, whihc turned iout to be correct.
Xtrerra might have been the application, but I'm sure have the part number, on the oroiginal box, which has the old ring and pinion in it out in the shed 'somewhere'.

I'll dig it out.

-Martin

My hero.

Do you remember if you fitted it to an ABS R200, or a non ABS R200?

Nope... I'm getting too old to remember stuff :-) But I can go stick my head under the car and have a look.. next time I'm hearby when it's light. I do remember it was an open diff, as I welded it.

-Martin.

So what were the main issues you guys ran into? And were they s13 specific issues?

The chasssis are a bit week. Even with the cage tied to it, i stil "adjusted" my rf strut tower over a really nasty bump.

I also found that fitting seats is tough because the car is so small. Whoever builds your cage, make sure the push it back and up for the main hoop, and keep the roof brace as close to the cieling as possible. i had to cut out the drivers floor and get rid of the cat hump to get my seat low enough.

Martin, what did you do with the drivers floor?

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Ian S
The chasssis are a bit week. Even with the cage tied to it, i stil "adjusted" my rf strut tower over a really nasty bump.

I also found that fitting seats is tough because the car is so small. Whoever builds your cage, make sure the push it back and up for the main hoop, and keep the roof brace as close to the cieling as possible. i had to cut out the drivers floor and get rid of the cat hump to get my seat low enough.

Martin, what did you do with the drivers floor?

Drivers floor... same as you!
Yes the front end is soft, especially since the S13's are 20 years old and known to rust on the fornt frame rails. I plated the rails from under seats to infront of the strut towers, both inside and out. I still bent one hitting a tree while up-side-down in the air :-) First event don't ya know.. had to get the roll out of the way.
I have the cage tied to teh strut towers too... last rally I broke another windshield, 4 now, landing a hard jump. I've come to teh realization you can't build a car that won't break if you beat on it hard enough. So decide how heavy you can live with and build it that strong... then fix shit as it breaks.

-Martin.

thanks for the info, will keep that in mind.

will stitch welding help at all in any way?


Also, part 2.

Faster, but a bit more sloppy. Need to work on corners badddd.

Time - 6:12 (-25s)
Avg speed - 59mph (+4mph)
Max - 100mph (+10mph)

more details in description

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MRWmotorsports
Drivers floor... same as you!
Yes the front end is soft, especially since the S13's are 20 years old and known to rust on the fornt frame rails. I plated the rails from under seats to infront of the strut towers, both inside and out. I still bent one hitting a tree while up-side-down in the air :-) First event don't ya know.. had to get the roll out of the way.
I have the cage tied to teh strut towers too... last rally I broke another windshield, 4 now, landing a hard jump. I've come to teh realization you can't build a car that won't break if you beat on it hard enough. So decide how heavy you can live with and build it that strong... then fix shit as it breaks.

-Martin.

I am on windshield number 2. It survived LSPR, so I am glad about that.

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240tshead
thanks for the info, will keep that in mind.

will stitch welding help at all in any way?

Most of my car is stitch welded. I would believe that it helped. I also plated the front frame rails on 3 sides from the seats to the strut towers. I think I am going to add a brace that ties the strut towers to the top center of the firewall. I also plated the tops of the strut towers.

The S14 should have some benefits, in rigidity, and the fact you are in TX means no rust.

When I build the next car (knock on wood, not too soon) I am going to ditch the factory dash bar, and just build one as part of the cage. I will be modifying the location of the steering column anyway, and attaching the dash is easy enough, its going to rattle and squeak anyway

My opinions regarding the video.

The Great Jake Himes once told me, straight is fast.

Every foot you spend dragging your butt in the weeds is time wasted. The same goes for wagging your tail back and forth. Keep the car pointed the direction you want to go, and put down as much power as you can. Its a balancing act.

The singular tight corner, you have things all backwards. You should be setting up much earlier. Its a simple corner, and you should be set up, and sliding as you enter. This should allow you to power out, even with crappy tires.

Lastly, cool it on the straight section. No need to ball the car up with those kind of speeds before you ever hit a stage. Practice you lower speed car control and setup first. Once you are more fluid with the car, the higher speed stuff will follow.

Remember, the addition of dirt tires at temp and a proper suspension will change the hadling drastically. Even with my suspension all goobered, I only see 1 real corner on the whole stretch. The little S disappears if you cut it a little.

Just my thoughts

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Most of my car is stitch welded. I would believe that it helped. I also plated the front frame rails on 3 sides from the seats to the strut towers. I think I am going to add a brace that ties the strut towers to the top center of the firewall. I also plated the tops of the strut towers.

The S14 should have some benefits, in rigidity, and the fact you are in TX means no rust.

When I build the next car (knock on wood, not too soon) I am going to ditch the factory dash bar, and just build one as part of the cage. I will be modifying the location of the steering column anyway, and attaching the dash is easy enough, its going to rattle and squeak anyway

Man I wish it had no rust This car came from further up north and was an ex company car. And thanks, taking all this into account.

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My opinions regarding the video.

The Great Jake Himes once told me, straight is fast.

Every foot you spend dragging your butt in the weeds is time wasted. The same goes for wagging your tail back and forth. Keep the car pointed the direction you want to go, and put down as much power as you can. Its a balancing act.

The singular tight corner, you have things all backwards. You should be setting up much earlier. Its a simple corner, and you should be set up, and sliding as you enter. This should allow you to power out, even with crappy tires.

Lastly, cool it on the straight section. No need to ball the car up with those kind of speeds before you ever hit a stage. Practice you lower speed car control and setup first. Once you are more fluid with the car, the higher speed stuff will follow.

Remember, the addition of dirt tires at temp and a proper suspension will change the hadling drastically. Even with my suspension all goobered, I only see 1 real corner on the whole stretch. The little S disappears if you cut it a little.

Just my thoughts

Oh yes, now when I come around those curves all wide n crazy like that, I am not intending to do so. It annoys me cause I can feel that it is slower. Especially the one where I hit the tall grass on the right...

Still hindered by the auto because it likes to shift up when I let off in a corner and then downshift and spin the back when I get on it again...it's VERY annoying. You can hear it in the video. I also do not intend to further increase my speed. It's way too risky being a cageless car and running with the tires I am on. Which corner is the real one you would say? Thanks for your input

Planning on going out to a different gravel road tomorrow to look at it. Lots more turns, no real long straights, and I believe it is longer.