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Posted by ChrisKobi
Billy Irvin Mod Moderator Location: Puyallup Washington Join Date: 06/06/2010 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 156 |
Alex Staidle Mega Moderator Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Join Date: 08/21/2009 Age: Settling Down Posts: 1,719 Rally Car: Various Heaps |
Wilson von Kessler Ultra Moderator Location: Lookout Mountain, GA Join Date: 02/28/2006 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,127 Rally Car: Colts are in Finland; now '87 325i, '89 325i |
Really? Maybe you need to do an internet search on "steel sumpguard." And, of course, you can get composite ones as well. "Talk about drugs. Driving a car like that, going that fast, it’s like all the drugs at once." - Tommy Byrne "Now, Pinky, if by any chance you are captured during this mission, remember you are Gunther Heindriksen from Appenzell. You moved to Grindelwald to drive the cog train to Murren. Can you repeat that?" - The Brain |
Most are 3/16 or 1/4in."oh! you're the one!" Senior Moderator Location: Hazel Dell, WA Join Date: 02/22/2008 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,390 Rally Car: 1974 Dodge Colt, under construction |
Max Godlike Moderator Location: Durham, NC Join Date: 02/04/2009 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 611 Rally Car: 1983 MKI GTI |
John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Problem is steel is roughly 300% heavier by unit than aluminum and nothing says mundane, nondescript sheet steel is particular stronger than some of the alloys of aluminum coomonly available Notice we use almost exclusively aluminum wheels. So with aluminum we can get close on strength, but go thicker, and with that exceed the strength of thinner steel. 1/4" aluminum is the ideal thickness...little point, except as ballast, going thicker----it is a sumpguard, we're trying to prevent puncturing or crushing the sump so we don't pop a motor... Composites are absurdley expensive, and difficult to make and secure and really for a clubbie don't do anything for the expense that 6061 does just fine. It's nice for the rich guys, but aside from one or two, they aren't here, and it definitely ain't our man Chris here. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Max Godlike Moderator Location: Durham, NC Join Date: 02/04/2009 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 611 Rally Car: 1983 MKI GTI |
Chris Kobayashi Mod Moderator Location: Seattle, Wash. Join Date: 02/15/2012 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 319 Rally Car: 2000 ford focus zx3 |
Yes! Also, figured out the sump guard situation. Yes I will pick up some 1/4 aluminum and also the necessary's for securing it into place. Found a Navigator also, So the ball is rollin' and a plan is in motion! 
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John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Run your ideas past some of us'n before you get too deep into it. There are hosted here lots of photos of good ways to mount things up, and most guys get it really wrong first 3-4 times.. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Dave Miller Mod Moderator Location: Sacramento Join Date: 07/11/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 66 Rally Car: Hopefully my 91 745 |
John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Run your ideas past some of us'n before you get too deep into it. There are hosted here lots of photos of good ways to mount things up, and most guys get it really wrong first 3-4 times..[/quote] John, on a Volvo could I put the skid plate (sump guard) in the same location as the plastic ones and use the same mounting locations?[/quote] If the sump guard is going to do any good I think it needs to be mounted securely and be supported. I made some mounts like these for the Xratties and they are stout: 
A L angle goes between the 2 sides and the leading edge of the aluminum plate nestles into the L with the L forward <----. That was there's no way in the word to catch the front edge of the plate when the car is nose down braking and you stuff it.. The middle of the sump guard is supported with this: 
right where we're trying to protect the sump Here was my pile o stuff: 
Comparison real "909" Ford and JVAB "606" version 
Front side parts. You can see how the shape directs blows rearward and up into the chassi legs and how it does triple duty as sump guard mount, towing eyelet and jacking point ( you make a thing to drop on the pad of the trolley jack and it has a bar stocking out which nestles into the notch just behind the towing eyelet both sides and yo can lift from there the whole front easy without fishing around under the car) 
At the rear we make something like in the MKII Escort book hosted here which you find under "Manual scans". If you can't find it I'll find it. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Aaron Luptak Mod Moderator Location: SLC Join Date: 02/15/2008 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 776 Rally Car: Civic... |
I assume the L angle is part #6 in the B0-10 drawing there? Any pics of it in the flesh? (I'm pretty sure I get the idear, but real world pics always help with understanding)  KF7RWG 
http://www.utahrallygroup.com |
Chris Kobayashi Mod Moderator Location: Seattle, Wash. Join Date: 02/15/2012 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 319 Rally Car: 2000 ford focus zx3 |
Sean Medcroft Godlike Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
My "L" that runs between the tow plates is a bit more ellaborate, but here is how I utilized Johns parts.
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