Need some help

There is no "frame" on unibody cars.
Just a box made of sheetmetal spot welded here and there.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Here's your six step program good buddy.


#1 Find donor car.

#2 Remove needed parts from donor car.

#3 Drill out a bunch of spot welds.

#4 Clamp, measure, weld.

#5 Spray some crappy rattle can lacquer on bare metal.

#6 Reassemble, and enjoy.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

Quote
Ken Rogers
Here's your six step program good buddy.


#1 Find donor car.

#2 Remove needed parts from dead car.

#3 Drill out a bunch of spot welds.

#4 Clamp, measure, weld.

#5 Spray some crappy rattle can lacquer on bare metal.

#6 Reassemble, and enjoy.

Except if he has a donor car, taking OFF then putting them back on is more work than simply prepping the donor car, whatever it might be..

If the other car had a weld in cage and was wired and plumbed and stitched in critical areas and set mounts in etc then it be worthwhile to save the basic shell.

This car is was just a fairly clean wagon, now its junk.

There were 3 donor cars above, and I have a whole nickel bet that says Dave hasn't called any of them.
Or Al Kun to ask about the various 240s laying around there.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Ken Rogers
Here's your six step program good buddy.


#1 Find donor car.

#2 Remove needed parts from dead car.

#3 Drill out a bunch of spot welds.

#4 Clamp, measure, weld.

#5 Spray some crappy rattle can lacquer on bare metal.

#6 Reassemble, and enjoy.

Except if he has a donor car, taking OFF then putting them back on is more work than simply prepping the donor car, whatever it might be..

If the other car had a weld in cage and was wired and plumbed and stitched in critical areas and set mounts in etc then it be worthwhile to save the basic shell.

This car is was just a fairly clean wagon, now its junk.

There were 3 donor cars above, and I have a whole nickel bet that says Dave hasn't called any of them.
Or Al Kun to ask about the various 240s laying around there.

Yep it's dead, dead'nr 'na a door nail, you know that and I know that, but meatwagon seems to have some irrational emotional attachment to it, and is looking for the magic bullet to fix it on the cheap.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

Looking at welds on the 'net isn't an exact science. We can tell what looks sketchy, you probably can also. I've seen decent looking welds that didn't work. I just had to weld spring mounts on a farily new trailer that the factory just missed. Luckily the tires just rubbed against the frame .

Not everyone on here is dead broke, looking for cheap and dirty. Some people like to do things for fun, their idea of fun, not JVs or mine. Some people can afford DMS suspension or late model Sti donor cars. Some people think spending years building a merkur is great fun, not me.

Take a few minutes and look at this gents amazing journey into insanity http://www.journalofthemollyb.com/
freehanding a Volvo core support don't seem so bad.

But he's talking a complete tubular front end with basically nowhere to attach it to.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

For less than the $200 the parts to fix it cost at the PnP.

lol

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

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"Talk about drugs. Driving a car like that, going that fast, it’s like all the drugs at once." - Tommy Byrne

"Now, Pinky, if by any chance you are captured during this mission, remember you are Gunther Heindriksen from Appenzell. You moved to Grindelwald to drive the cog train to Murren. Can you repeat that?" - The Brain

Exactly, and that is fine to point out, which I did. Its not a great idea nor conventional. However attachment points can be made and it can be done. Explaining the pitfalls is fine, pointing out repeatedly the OP is stupid and its a stupid idea not so fine. People could easily point out to JV that his building struts that can easily be purchased commercially is stupid also. It's not exactly true but still could be said. If someone came on here and asked for info and building their own struts they would be told it was stupid and just buy some. They could buy some from JV who is just doing the same procedure himself. Jesse james and the Tuttles built fortunes from doing crap that was un-conventional and un-necessary.

We are in a somewhat rare group of people that create, build, repair, re-design, tinker and otherwise just fark with things mechanical and electric. I can weld, paint, plumb, hammer nails, wire a house or a car and so on. As Red Green would say I'm handy. We can only learn and move forward with new info and ideas. We shouln't try to limit others efforts by our wallet or experience. The first guy building an internal combustion car was severly derided by his neighborhood stable.

As pointed out its not what you say but how you say it. JV thinks since we are all adults he can continually act like a child. Ok I guess.

Quote
heymagic
Exactly, and that is fine to point out, which I did. Its not a great idea nor conventional. However attachment points can be made and it can be done. Explaining the pitfalls is fine, pointing out repeatedly the OP is stupid and its a stupid idea not so fine. People could easily point out to JV that his building struts that can easily be purchased commercially is stupid also. It's not exactly true but still could be said. If someone came on here and asked for info and building their own struts they would be told it was stupid and just buy some. They could buy some from JV who is just doing the same procedure himself. Jesse james and the Tuttles built fortunes from doing crap that was un-conventional and un-necessary.

We are in a somewhat rare group of people that create, build, repair, re-design, tinker and otherwise just fark with things mechanical and electric. I can weld, paint, plumb, hammer nails, wire a house or a car and so on. As Red Green would say I'm handy. We can only learn and move forward with new info and ideas. We shouln't try to limit others efforts by our wallet or experience. The first guy building an internal combustion car was severly derided by his neighborhood stable.

As pointed out its not what you say but how you say it. JV thinks since we are all adults he can continually act like a child. Ok I guess.

Say what you want we've been through this 2 or 3 times now, and the answers are always the same.

I've offered to physically help him cut out the needed parts at the junkyard, and found him a $200 parts car nearby that eventually got crushed.

So yea talk is cheap carry on...

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

How much for the strutbraces you're going to make Dave? I'd like bot front and rear for my volvo 144?

Quote
buerckner
How much for the strutbraces you're going to make Dave? I'd like bot front and rear for my volvo 144?

I don't mind shorting myself on labor cost so I was thinking of trying to keep them around a hundred plus shipping. Don't count me on that yet, but that is the goal. But right now I still have to make the "prototypes" for the 740 as that is what I have on hand and I would have to find somebody with a 144 before I could make a pair for it. I do not want to make something based on measurements alone without having a vehicle there to guarantee fitment.

Now since we are on this topic, what style of mounting for the brace is preferred for the front. With the circular attachment like so: o===o or with the simpler design with two mounting brackets like so: ]===[ ?

So none of you kinder gentler internet heros have a tubing spec, bend and cut sheet, and a solid works drawing for Dave's 945 cage?

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

Quote
CaliMeatwagon

Quote
buerckner
How much for the strutbraces you're going to make Dave? I'd like bot front and rear for my volvo 144?

I don't mind shorting myself on labor cost so I was thinking of trying to keep them around a hundred plus shipping. Don't count me on that yet, but that is the goal. But right now I still have to make the "prototypes" for the 740 as that is what I have on hand and I would have to find somebody with a 144 before I could make a pair for it. I do not want to make something based on measurements alone without having a vehicle there to guarantee fitment.

Now since we are on this topic, what style of mounting for the brace is preferred for the front. With the circular attachment like so: o===o or with the simpler design with two mounting brackets like so: ]===[ ?

140's don't have hard points set up for braces.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

Good to know. Now I would definitely have to been in front of one to make a pair.