PAddy Patrick McVeigh Junior Moderator Location: Toronto, ON Join Date: 12/21/2005 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 358 Rally Car: Student Loans |
Skye Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > Hmmm but seems like it would be a royal pain > during service, repairs, trapping mud and > moisture, ripping off and dragging around, etc Hence me trying to find a good way to bolt it on...I've spent enough time fixing holes in the floor of this car already, I'll take the extra 5min to unbolt this stuff instead. |
Kirby Kirby Read Professional Moderator Location: Squamish BC Join Date: 01/14/2006 Age: Settling Down Posts: 52 Rally Car: 1981 Volvo 242 |
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Skye Skye Nott Mega Moderator Location: Vancouveh Join Date: 12/18/2005 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 476 Rally Car: Xratty |
Good point I forgot about abrasive the roads are here. I'm used to nice gravel on clay soil or dry, that's what we have in southern BC.
www.rallyrace.net |
NoCoast Grant Hughes Infallible Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
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John Lane John Lane Mega Moderator Location: Lynden or Seattle Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 175 Rally Car: Volvo 262turbo AKA the SPE |
I have NEVER lost a piece of UHMW that we have attached to the underside of the car with Stainless rivets. (mudflaps excepted for obvious reasons) A plus that goes along with the rivets is that they end up flush and are not as inclined to wear away as an expised bolt-head. Place the UHMW in a spot where it will NOT have to be removed. Want the skid plate to live forever? Attach UHMW to it.
JohnLane Volvo 260turbo AKA The Fire Breathing Monster Overkill is consistently more fun |
krisdahl Kris Dahl Super Moderator Location: Issaquah, WA Join Date: 02/13/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 282 Rally Car: Integra, Civic |
John Lane Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > I have NEVER lost a piece of UHMW that we have > attached to the underside of the car with > Stainless rivets. (mudflaps excepted for obvious > reasons) A plus that goes along with the rivets is > that they end up flush and are not as inclined to > wear away as an expised bolt-head. Place the > UHMW in a spot where it will NOT have to be > removed. Want the skid plate to live forever? > Attach UHMW to it. We rivited with large head rivets. Our car is relatively flat bottomed, didn't have to wrap it all the way up like derek's car, so was easy. Some of the rivets nearest the tunnel ground down and are now gone, so the sheets are drooping a bit, but that is after a full season, and they may have been aluminum (don't remember). We're going to put a couple of bolts there this time around (probably cairrage head). We have no need to ever remove them, and they aren't likely to ever come off unintentionally... Originally they partially covered some of the mounts for the front suspension, we modified it for clearance and now its perfect. Cuts down noise drastically and having a sacrificial material greatly increases the longevity of the car. On a front wheel drive car, it is a necessity both from gravel/sandblasting and noise. They take a real beating, who knows what the car would look like without them. |
Do It Sidewayz Chris Martin Senior Moderator Location: Toronto, Ontario Join Date: 01/15/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 567 Rally Car: E-85 powered Impreza |
get a piece of 1" or 3/4" square steel tubing.
zap it to the pinch "flange" on the bottom of the rockers. purpose is 2 fold. 1. Will strengthen the weak rusted rockers. 2. Gives you a nice solid place to mount the stuff (use screws, bolts, welded nuts...whatever Chris |
PAddy Patrick McVeigh Junior Moderator Location: Toronto, ON Join Date: 12/21/2005 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 358 Rally Car: Student Loans |
john vanlandingham Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > THEN if you want the repair is a snap, 1 piece > outboard curving downwards and one piece inboard > curving down to make a new "pinch Rail" Sorta like > this: Y So since it was nice out today (like 3 degrees, spring is in the air!), I was out noodling on the car, and the more I ground at the rust to weld in a repair piece, the more the metal kept disappearing. Soooooo, is there any special engine-earing reason for having the pinch rail joining the floorboard, inner rocker, and rocker cover in the 'Y' as opposed to just bending them to meet in an "L"? Like, if I hit my remaining "Y" bits with a hammer, they just fall off, so do I need to go to the hassle of making a new one, or can I just patch it with some "L" shaped bends and make a new rocker out of steel tube? ps, I REALLY should have fawking done this stuff when the car was sideways...what a pain in the drain to weld on slightly rusty metal overhead... |
I'm not an engineer yet, but my gut feeling is no. The reason why it rolls to a Y is probably PURE aesthetics. There has to be a seam somewhere and they are ugly, so you want them out of sight as possible and in a location that won't rust to shit faster than they already do.
There is of course some strength from the shape of the rocker.. if you want to completely nuke it, you should make sure your cage/square tube replacement will take up the slack is anchored well. But I have to note that I see rockerless rust buckets going down the road all the time, they are however not rally cars. Andrew M Onterrible 30ish Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/06/2006 10:38AM by hudson. |
Pete Pete Remner Mod Moderator Location: Cleveland, Ohio Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 2,022 |
> Soooooo, is there any special engine-earing reason > for having the pinch rail joining the floorboard, > inner rocker, and rocker cover in the 'Y' as > opposed to just bending them to meet in an "L"? > Like, if I hit my remaining "Y" bits with a > hammer, they just fall off, so do I need to go to > the hassle of making a new one, or can I just > patch it with some "L" shaped bends and make a new > rocker out of steel tube? They're easier to spotweld that way, give a nice convenient place for a scissors jack, and the added spine thingy might make things marginally stiffer, at least before it crumbles to dust. Probably mostly the spotweld thing. Additionally, one of the OEMs was going to cut down/eliminate the pinch rail on a new body design a couple years back, save a littlw weight. They were also working with insurance companies and repair-industry types to design in such a way as to make the cars cheaper/easier to repair. As it turns out a lot of body shops clamp the shells by the pinch rail in the course of straightening a car out, so they ended up leaving the rail in. You're not a body shop or an assembly line robot, though... Well I guess in a sense you'rw a body shop now Pete Remner Cleveland, Ohio 1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing) 1978 Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. |
MRWmotorsports Martin Walter Super Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
Paddy,
I cut my rockers right off, had some new ones bent up out of 18 guage (about twice the thinkness of the originals). welded them on... also got while I was in there I put in some short pieces of box section with 1.5" tube for the jacking points. The Y seam went away in the process. I haven't figure out how I'll attach my protection... usually it just rolls on and stays there :-) Don't use sheet metal screws as they fall out and stick in tires... http://www.neo240sx.ca/Nismo/Martin/rally/100_1317.JPG -Martin |