High RPM vs Low RPM

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IIIRII
The f20c isnt the holy grail, but bang for buck they are hard to beat.
At the end of the day if you dont want to do an engine swap, dont ....



John the ratios are the same for all jap 6 speeds (f20c-Altezza-S15-Mazda), same manufacturer
3.874
2.175
1.484
1.223
1.000
0.869

Never seen one with anything other than 1.1 fifth

That is a nice set of ratios.. are the bellhousings integral to the box?
Probably on Japanese things..

That makes it a real bitch to deal with.

What do they cost in North America, Land of 89% auto-tragic transgressions

See I just got a Borg Warner T5 for one of the boys here for $150..
A little tear down, swap input shaft (maybe $75) and bottom gear (seen them for $125) and he has a gearset virtually indistinguishable in ratios from a Evobitchi 5-8, and thats pretty damn good---except for the overdrive 5th is taller---which works out good when going to a short final drive like 4.3 or 4.56/4.88
His 5th will be still OK for the long transits we sometimes have. I've done 55 mile transits before.
So 1st thru 4th or zero to about 120 mph, then 5th for doodling all comfy down the transits.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

We have a local drifter that just did a Beams motor in a Mk1 celica. That thing is badass

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alkun
BUT, for $300 you can get a voooolvo motor, an as for your main question, go high RPM by keeping your foot planted, and bouncing it off the rev limiter. This is how you get all 120 HP out of it. Its a good deal, you get half the HP for less than a tenth of the price. And it will last several year of mindbending abuse if you keep all the wires and hoses hooked up.

Keep it N/A and mostly stock while building that end of the world turbo motor for when that can be fitted to the rallycar..... Getting out there and getting sideways is fun even if not going particularly fast.... Big thing is getting seat time. More important then burning through your cash for the engine is having the shell properly prepped for when it happens as there those who have.... those who will... and having suspension that WORKS and brakes that WORK every time! Choose well. Dave Clark installed the rollcage kit that JVL sourced for me many years ago. Has saved us and the car several times.

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alkun
Yep gearing is how we get the barge moving, and you want somewhere between 4.56 and 4.88 ring and pinion ratio for your rear axle. As Lawrence kindly offers, ring and pinions for 1031 are hard to get and expensive, you have to get them from Sweden and they cost in the $1000 range. On the other hand, the volvo 1030 axle found in early 240 takes the dana 30 ring and pinions, which you can get in any size from Randy's ring and pinion for $130. Mounting a 1030 in a 740 volvo will take a little custom hack saw and welder work, but we are building rallycars here right.

Al he's going to give it a Turbo motor in the future.... Turbo motors make HUGE torque.

I chose a 3.0 final drive for my turbo six that has .... Count 'em..... Four ratios in the Nascar dogbox. Long legs to go along with a lot of torque.

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alkun
Lawrence chimed in about the LSD, which is hard to find for volvo (stock ones are rare and weak, good ones are $$$ and you have to import them from Sweden) Here the welded stock differential works fine.

As soon as it makes any torque it will be breaking axles. Weld it up for N/A use and fit a spool to the 8.8 or find the Toyota diff that JVL speaks of as having a really nice Limited slip if it is all that. I've not used it.... Love me spool for how consistent it is.

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alkun
Changing to the T5 trans is mostly about dealing with the HUGE second to third gear gap in the stock volvo trans.

+ the reality that the Volvo gearset will break third gear or a mainshaft if it has an overdrive with anything more then standard Naturally aspirated power as soon as it finds grip.

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alkun
This can all be done in stages, and you can start rallying in a car with stock drivetrain. Its important to have a realistic plan.

True words these are!

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

John, the bellhousing is like a nissan box, NOT a w55 /57 t50 toyota type, so you cant just unbolt it and bolt it onto another bellhousing.
Most hibrids have a mating of the bellhousings tig'd (cut and lined up and welded)

The Hilux / Supra LSD is complete crap, I wouldnt recommend them to anyone.
They are friction only and have no ramping and rely soley on fixed clamping pressure.

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IIIRII
John, the bellhousing is like a nissan box, NOT a w55 /57 t50 toyota type, so you cant just unbolt it and bolt it onto another bellhousing.
Most hibrids have a mating of the bellhousings tig'd (cut and lined up and welded)

As I 99.9% knew it would be, everybody has been doing that..
Another reason we like the T5 over hear. Modding a bellhousing is easy

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The Hilux / Supra LSD is complete crap, I wouldnt recommend them to anyone.
They are friction only and have no ramping and rely soley on fixed clamping pressure.

Would go all black and white and say its COMPLETE crap.
It's strong and its cheap...and the things are easy to shim the hell out of..
Of course, no debate a nice rampy diff is way better, used one since 1985 in my old Saab, LOVE IT.
Nice all steel unit based off the GKN "Salisbury" diff for MkII escorts..some plates and discs and cross shafts and 4 pinions but different splines for the side gears.

But the first step is something and a whole diff and a good ratio with a OK diff that is shimmed up for $35-150 is better by a mile than an open wimpy diff with 3.64 and that's it...
If a guy recovers from the "whole car build" costs, then he can swap in a nice diff with ramps into the housing he has. Only $1200, just money.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.